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TN: Wines with friends


Florida Jim

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2002 Graf Hardegg, Viognier V:

Sherried nose with apricot and vinous tones; less oxidized in the mouth with a rich, full, round delivery that is balanced and flavorful; medium length finish. Perhaps, this bottle was damaged but the oxidation here was unattractive; in its absence I think this Austrian wine would have been lovely. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Wildman and about $50; I’d not pay that again.

2002 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois-Pupillin:

Unlike other recent bottles, this bottle showed very young and had more a red color than orange; still, beautifully scented poulsard with pomegranate and cherry flavors accented with earth tones, good depth, somewhat tannic but still a lightweight elegance overall and good length. Not for everyone but I find this wine a bit of a changeling and quite fascinating. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis Dressner and about $22; I’d buy it again at that price.

1993 Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain:

Despite its 14 years there is still plenty of grip and bright acidity backing the powerful cassis and blackberry flavors that are accented with lots of secondary bottle bouquet and palate development in the earthy, leather-toned spectrum, no evident wood, great depth, immense complexity, excellent balance and, although still not fully resolved, the overall is a wine of great character and style. Lots of years left in the cellar but quite compelling now. Had substantial sediment that required decanting. 12.5% alcohol, $40 on release and surely worth more. Magnificent!

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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