Varietal

[BryanZ]

oakapple, don't you feel you were being somewhat severe on the savory food?

[oakapple]

oakapple, don't you feel you were being somewhat severe on the savory food?

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The actual items we had were exceedingly disappointing. We very much wanted to like it. We were there previously (for a dessert tasting), and thought it was spectacular. I don't know if we just made poor choices or caught them on a bad night.

[Eatmywords]

Platt bashes then commends......likes food/desserts but not the space.......finishes with an avg star rating (2/6) w/seems uneven given the praise

http://nymag.com/restaurants/reviews/27741/index.html

[docsconz]

Platt bashes then commends......likes food/desserts but not the space.......finishes with an avg star rating (2/6) w/seems uneven given the praise

http://nymag.com/restaurants/reviews/27741/index.html

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I don't follow Platt enough to have an idea of what his stars really mean, but I thought the review itself was fair to the restaurant.

[Sneakeater]

Just for the record, it's 2/5, not 2/6.

(I thought the review was fair, too. Considering how little everyone respects him, I find it troubling how much I tend to agree with Adam Platt.)

Edited February 12, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[oakapple]

I don't follow Platt enough to have an idea of what his stars really mean, but I thought the review itself was fair to the restaurant.

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There are eleven restaurants in New York's top two categories (4 & 5 stars), as opposed to five restaurants in the Times's top category (4 stars).

But after the system made its big-bang debut, no new 4 or 5-star restaurants have been crowned. Platt's lower three ratings have been fairly close to Frank Bruni's.

[Nathan]

I don't think much of Platt...but I thought this review was accurate.

[johnder]

Varietal got reviewed in the New York Observer today, here.

1.5 stars, a couple of outtakes:

Executive chef Ed Witt, who was last at Il Buco, is a champion of small family farms—he lists purveyors on the back of the menu. One of his best dishes is baby octopus poached in olive oil, melting and crisped, served with sunchokes on salsa verde. Roasted beets sautéed in lemon agrumato oil (made by crushing together lemons and olives) are garnished with leaves of mâche and mullet bottarga (preserved roe): a lovely combination. Giant juicy prawns are served in a fragrant consommé infused with chamomile tea; sea scallops arrive two ways—seared with a crust of cumin and jasmine rice, and in a tartare with pomegranate and pumpkinseed oil.

The balance of tastes and textures is off-kilter in some dishes. Steamed monkfish liver, served on a disk of sautéed shredded pork shoulder with a miso and black-bean sauce, sounds interesting (and was eaten without guilt—you can’t force-feed a monkfish), but the shredded pork is tough. The gritty texture of mustard seeds is too much for a buttery, poached Tasmanian trout on a bed of lentils. And the pickled taste of tempura-fried caperberries, awkwardly paired with a blood-orange brown butter reduced to the consistency of ketchup, was awful and overwhelms the delicate John Dory.

And on Chef Kahn:

Mr. Witt’s food is positively conservative compared with the desserts created by 23-year-old Jordan Kahn, who has worked at Per Se, French Laundry and, most recently, Chicago’s Alinea, the most far-out restaurant in the country. A molecular biologist in the kitchen, Mr. Kahn uses dried mushrooms, celery root, mastic (a resin from the evergreen tree), soy and God knows what else. Cherry-wood ice cream, anyone?

His creations look like paintings. A crisp ribbon of lime sabayon garnishes a plate strewn with broken macaroons, soybean nougatins and a slash of scarlet-wolfberry purée. The black sauce is a house-made ketjap manis, a caramel deglazed with soy, tamari, licorice powder and molasses. It’s decidedly odd, but the crunchy macaroons and tart wolfberry pull this Dadaist dish together.

Summary:

With all its eagerness for experimentation, it’s easy to knock Varietal, and it’s certainly not the place for everybody. Looking around the room one evening, I noticed that barely anyone appeared to be over 35. But I do admire the restaurant’s creativity, especially with the desserts.

[johnder]

It is a two-fer today for Varietal. A review hit the New York Sun today too, here.

The two chefs work in very different idioms. Ed Witt, who was executive chef at Il Buco, is known for his devotion to high-grade artisanal ingredients, and traditional preparations that highlight them. Here, though, he seems to take some tricky cues from pastry chef Jordan Kahn, who, coming to Varietal from Chicago's avant-garde Alinea, juxtaposes elements such as beer and chrysanthemum in dramatic desserts that evoke abstract paintings. As if that duo in the kitchen weren't drama enough, Mr. Hockenberry's very impressive wine service, with 80 poured by the glass, provides an ostensible theme for the restaurant, which is reflected in its name and in the extremely spare space's only ornamentation: a pair of wine-glass light fixtures, and loving close-up photos of grapes on the vine.

One of Mr. Witt's tricks is to spotlight an ingredient by preparing it in two complementary ways, side by side on one plate. He sears one of a pair of superlative scallops ($14), with a cumin crust and a wash of squash purée; the other is served raw, diced and reassembled with some pomegranate seeds among the dice. A preparation of rabbit, from the $75 tasting menu, pairs intense wine-braised shreds of meat with a couple of lighter, richer pieces prepared separately. It's an effective technique, especially when brought to bear on such fine raw materials. Other dishes, though, sacrifice such good sense for a playfulness that's enjoyable but distracting. A tortuous, aimless starter the menu titles "Chickpea" ($12) contains exactly four specimens of the namesake ingredient, joined by crunchy slices of green papaya, dried Meyer lemon wedges, and a long roseate tube of hearty lamb mousse with a light, pasty texture.

And on Chef Kahn:

Mr. Kahn's desserts intentionally evoke modern art, with sculptural arcs and twists, expressionistic drizzles and dollops, and names like Celery Root Abstract and White Chocolate Cubism. Each one contains a savory curiosity ingredient, but the flavors are balanced enough that the unconventional element adds weight and grounding rather than conflict. Eggplant complements grape, we learn; flax suits chocolate. The celery root in the Abstract ($12) appears just as a background taste anointing a central cube of genoise, while other elements — tuile, toffee spiced with sweet fenugreek, and ice cream made with wood-smoked cream — occupy the center of the palate's attention. Tall sheaves of dried, candied shiitakes stand erect in a "chocolate gel" ($13); vivid pear sorbet and a jelly capsule of pear purée loiter alongside. The strongflavored mushroom does clash a bit, if only because its dirty-woodsy taste lasts in the mouth much longer than the sweet flavors do.

[Gabe Q]

Yeez, how long does it take to put up a website?!

[Felonius]

Some friends invited me to meet them at Varietal for dinner last week. None of us had been before, and I was eager to try it. Alas, after sitting at the bar for a glass of wine, they asked if I didn't mind trying somewhere else. I think they were turned off by a combination of the cold/stark atmosphere, some of the menu items, and the price point. I also noticed that the restaurant was only about half full, and it was prime time (about 8:30 - 9:00).

I left with a gut feeling this place may not be around all that long. It seems an odd combination of atmosphere and price point, and a bit out of place in that neighborhood. Sort of reminiscent of the failed "Mix" Ducasse/Chodorow concept (which I thought had outstanding food BTW).

Not trying to slam this place, and I will certainly go back by myself to try it.

[oakapple]

I also noticed that the restaurant was only about half full, and it was prime time (about 8:30 - 9:00).

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That was my observation too, and it was on a Friday night. That preceded the week in which three reviews appeared (NY Mag, NY Sun, NY Observer). Unless Frank Bruni's review really moves the needle, I think this place could have trouble surviving.

[mikeyrad]

The point of the "starkness" (mostly white, even the bar) of the atmosphere is to enable wine drinkers to get a sense of the wines' color. I've spoken to many restaurant owners who have been reviewed by Bruni and it seems that he knows next to nothing about wine (IMHO, he knows next to nothing about food). It seems that sometimes he brings along someone who supposedly is more into wines than he is. So, given his penchant for weighting atmosphere in his reviews combined with his lack of knowledge about wine drinking and winetasting, don't be surprised if he bashes this restaurant.

Edited February 23, 2007 by mikeyrad (log)

[tupac17616]

wow

jordan kahn is one talented dude

last night a friend and i tried every dessert currently on the menu

nine for nine

bravo

here's hoping bruni likes the place

frankly it would be a tragedy for such artistry to not be properly recognized

Edited February 25, 2007 by tupac17616 (log)

[oakapple]

wow

jordan kahn is one talented dude

last a friend and i tried every dessert currently on the menu

nine for nine

bravo

here's hoping bruni likes the place

frankly it would be a tragedy for such artistry to not be properly recognized

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The question is: even assuming Bruni loves the desserts as much as we do, how far is he willing to go if the savory courses aren't up to that level?

[Sethro]

I've NEVER seen Bruni write more than three sentences concerning dessert. Usually its exactly three sentences: the first sentence names the pastry chef and sums up his or her talent level and appropriateness to the restaurant, the second mentions in vague detail a dish that was delicious, and the third cites another which was unsucessful.

It would be interesting to see if he gives more consideration to the desserts at Varietal, knowing that they have garnered more buzz than the savory menu and the wine list collectively.

Edited February 26, 2007 by Sethro (log)

[JohnL]

The point of the "starkness" (mostly white, even the bar) of the atmosphere is to enable wine drinkers to get a sense of the wines' color.  I've spoken to many restaurant owners who have been reviewed by Bruni and it seems that he knows next to nothing about wine (IMHO, he knows next to nothing about food).  It seems that sometimes he brings along someone who supposedly is more into wines than he is. So, given his penchant for weighting atmosphere in his reviews combined with his lack of knowledge about wine drinking and winetasting, don't be surprised if he bashes this restaurant.

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I have to admit, using white "to enable wine drinkers to get a sense of the wine's color" is IMOP--pretentious bordering on the idiotic.

The primary goal of restaurant decor should be to create a comfortable atmosphere for the enjoyment of food and wine and camaraderie.

The white bar is not, in and of itself, a problem--though a simple white mat would suffice. However, if the use of white in the overall decor is such that the "starkness" is off putting or cold, then it is a definite problem.

There's a big difference between tasting, and evaluating and enjoying wine. This restaurant would be better off if they were simply concerned with people enjoying wine and having fun. Beyond a swirl a sniff and a swallow, there's not much more to it. I sense that this place may be stubbing its own toe in trying to be too many things rather than just a fun place to go for a drink and a meal. A wine bar is different (at least it should be) than a wine school.

[mikeyrad]

I've NEVER seen Bruni write more than three sentences concerning dessert. Usually its exactly three sentences: the first sentence names the pastry chef and sums up his or her talent level and appropriateness to the restaurant, the second mentions in vague detail a dish that was delicious, and the third cites another which was unsucessful.

It would be interesting to see if he gives more consideration to the desserts at Varietal, knowing that they have garnered more buzz than the savory menu and the wine list collectively.

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The problem is that he doesn't write more than a couple of paragraphs about the FOOD. He seems so much more intent to waste space describing the room or even worse, babbling on with clever, but completely unrelated prose. But this is getting into Bruniland so I'll stop.

[mikeyrad]

I have to admit, using white "to enable wine drinkers to get a sense of the wine's color" is IMOP--pretentious bordering on the idiotic.

As you said, it's just your opinion. I just described the concept as described to me by the restaurant's food and wine director.

[JohnL]

I have to admit, using white "to enable wine drinkers to get a sense of the wine's color" is IMOP--pretentious bordering on the idiotic.

As you said, it's just your opinion. I just described the concept as described to me by the restaurant's food and wine director.

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Yes, it is my opinion.

The inevitable conclusion is this place is suffering from being

over thought conceptually. Resulting in a lot of confusion.

Maybe they should have opened three separate and distinct places.

One hopes they will be able to somehow make some adjustments and

add some much needed cohesiveness.

[mikeyrad]

Yes, it is my opinion.

The inevitable conclusion is this place is suffering from being

over thought conceptually. Resulting in a lot of confusion.

Maybe they should have opened three separate and distinct places.

Actually, I don't think that the problem with Varietal is their concept or the ambiance. It's their prices! If they were around $22 per entree, Varietal would be a standout neighborhood type of restaurant serving very good food with a great wine selection. My guess is that the place would also be packed. However, at the $30 per entree price point it has some serious competition.

[Sethro]

I agree about the price point. I would also group the vibe of the room into the same category. The menus are kind of fun and free flowing, but the room and the service felt overly serious to me. I think at a slightly lower price point, slightly more upbeat music and servers, and the experience would be more congruent with the food.

As for the food itslef, my one major criticism would be the jarring transition between the savory and the dessert. The plates look like they're from entiely different planets. My philosophy is that exec chef and pastry chef should compromise (or even better cross-polinate) their styles to create a clear identity.

Personally I thought the desserts overshadowed the savory menu, which doesn't mean they were better, just very unique. If chef Witt doesn't work in that asthetic, it might have been better for J Kahn to find more of a common ground. He could always do his more personal stuff later down the road, when he has a project built around his vision alone (which seems inevitable).

Edited February 27, 2007 by Sethro (log)

[chefboy24]

i've been there 5 times now, since i work a block away and we know the sommelier and owner.

this is a very serious restaurant. i love the style, the concept, the decor, everything.

jordan is brilliant. helen the sommelier is brilliant, the owner, i forgot his name, knows what he is doing.

who the hell cares if the desserts look one way and the savory food looks another? who the hell cares, really? honestly, someone explain why.

the service is very professional and the food is freakin' delicious. my experience there was about 10 times more enjoyable then the 4 hour dinner i had at gordon ramsay, which is why i go to varietal on a weekly basis. the service is just simply on point, and so is the food.

there aren't really too many other places in new york i prefer for fine dining... jean georges, le bernardin, the modern, bouley maybe. but varietal i can chill in the lounge and hang out and have a great time.

my $.02

Edited March 4, 2007 by chefboy24 (log)

[chefboy24]

I agree about the price point. I would also group the vibe of the room into the same category. The menus are kind of fun and free flowing, but the room and the service felt overly serious to me. I think at a slightly lower price point, slightly more upbeat music and servers, and the experience would be more congruent with the food.

As for the food itslef, my one major criticism would be the jarring transition between the savory and the dessert. The plates look like they're from entiely different planets. My philosophy is that exec chef and pastry chef should compromise (or even better cross-polinate) their styles to create a clear identity.

Personally I thought the desserts overshadowed the savory menu, which doesn't mean they were better, just very unique. If chef Witt doesn't work in that asthetic, it might have been better for J Kahn to find more of a common ground. He could always do his more personal stuff later down the road, when he has a project built around his vision alone (which seems inevitable).

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upbeat music?!?!

they were playing drum and bass, house, telepopmusik, ????

[Sethro]

upbeat music?!?!

they were playing drum and bass, house, telepopmusik, ????

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Hmm I'm pretty sure it was very quiet, subdued jazzy stuff when I was there. My point is that the atmosphere felt at odds with the fare.

As for the differences in plating style: Establishing an identity is crucial to a restraunt's sucess, and disparities like that make for a vague identity. I'm sure it doesn't conciously bother everyone, but it does effect the experience on some level.

It's not something that detracts from my enjoment of the food (and I do really enjoy the foodl), but being party to a few failed restaurants myself, I can't help but notice potential pitfalls. I hope Varietal is very sucessful regardless.

Edited March 4, 2007 by Sethro (log)