The Glasshouse

[Andy Lynes]

The opening of The Glasshouse in Worcester earlier this month saw Shaun Hill back behind the stoves for the first time since The Merchant House closed in Feb 2005. From the shots on the website, the sleek modern brasserie couldn't be more of a contrast to the cosy surroundings of Shaun's old restaurant. The two places do share some menu items however including calf’s sweetbreads with potato and olive cake (which I first ate back in 1995) and sauteed monkfish with mustard and cucumber sauce. Shaun's signature lentil and coriander sauce pops up served with mackeral rather than the usual scallops. Will post a full report after my visit early next week.

[insomniac]

Wasn't he at the Montacute Arms?

[Andy Lynes]

Yes, he was consulting once a month at the Montague Arms in the New Forest. I think his official title was Director of Cooking. He did a one off gourmet night in January this year where he actually cooked so you're right, he hasn't been entirely absent from the kitchen since the closing of The Merchant House.

Edited November 24, 2006 by Andy Lynes (log)

[KimS]

A not so glowing review here. Certainly put us off trying it.

[Andy Lynes]

A not so glowing review here. Certainly put us off trying it.

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In the above link to Birmingham Plus website, the site user review says "We were then shown to a small table at the back of the restaurant. The front section is not bad but it then tapers into a narrow rear area with mucky grey walls, paint on the furniture, and blanked-out glass panels at the back. If you ever wondered what it would be like eating in a hospital corridor, this would be a good place to find out."

Having seen the table (one of two in the same area of the room) I completely understand what they mean as, no doubt, does Jay Rayner who was given the same table when he recently visited (whoops!). However, they are by far the worst tables in the restaurant with the first floor dining room being the best place to eat. I had a table for one with a nice view of the impressive floodlit cathedral and the not so picturesque busy intersection below it.

Shaun says he is trying to give the classic brasserie menu an English slant, so you'll find the likes of pheasent pudding with fried sage and bacon or cockles and mussels on toast with shallot and dry cider sabayon rather than pastas and risottos to start. Happily, there's also quite a few dishes that fans of the Merchant House will be familiar with. I chose calf's sweetbreads with potato and olive cake which looked and tasted precisely as it had done back in 1995 when I first had it in Ludlow.

A main of roast middle white pork with black pudding and apple was a decent sized chop that was as much delicous fat as it was perfectly cooked, juicy meat. Only an oversized slice of the black pudding and a too-small portion of shredded cabbage cooked in reduced chicken stock (yum) threatened to over balance the dish. A exemplary caramel and apple tart with cinnamon ice cream (another of Hill's old stagers) finished of a highly enjoyable meal.

Hill admits to a pretty rough couple of opening weeks. The brigade only got access to their completed kitchen on the first day of opening with 94 booked, and there have been a number of rather swift front of house staffing changes. However, on the basis of Tuesday's outing, things seemed to have settled down with charming and efficient service seeming to keep the 90 odd punters at the very least content and one of them very happy indeed. Other complaints made on Birmingham Plus including a front door that wouldn't shut and a cold dining room appear to have been sorted out.

Prices are pretty decent with a glass of house champage at £6 and all wines available in 250ml carafes (a direct and shameless nick from Arbutus). I have no truck with such piddling amounts however and saw off a bottle of Gruner Veltliner 2005 Lorimer (£21) with astonishing ease. The maximum you can spend on three courses is £34 (side orders at £2.50 are available but definatley excess to requirements), the minimum £21.

Edited December 3, 2006 by Andy Lynes (log)

[jayrayner]

It's like being stalked.

[Andy Lynes]

It's like being stalked.

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Like?

[Mark Donnelly]

Sounds like he either got the big things right but the little things wrong or the big things wrong but the little things right. Either way it seems like he opened too soon. Fatal for someone with no reputation.

Sean has one, well sort of, and hence may eventually pull it off.

[Bapi]

as, no doubt, does Jay Rayner who was given the same table when he recently visited (whoops!).

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Jay's review