Our sample NY itinerary

[BryanZ]

Kind of like I refuse to ask for the "nook" tables at JG, I would NEVER ask for a tented table at Daniel, unless like I was terminally ill and it was to be one of my last meals. I feel like it's something you should have bestowed upon you, almost as a right of passage. When I hear about "normal" people getting these tables, a bit of the romance dies.

[HannaBanana]

Hello all,

I am the aforementioned (lucky) lady who Simon is bringing to New York next week.

While I haven't (on pain of death) read the thread (don't want to ruin any suprises), I'd like to say a big thanks in advance for all of the help and advice offered - we're both really excited about the trip, and I think eG has been a huge factor in this!

A full report will no doubt follow in due course, but I can assure you of one thing - No high heels will keep me from any restaurant!

Best,

HB

[Simon_S]

Well, we're back from our trip, and I have to say we had a really fantastic time. Knowing a little bit about restaurants in advance makes a huge difference of course, and I found it quite entertaining finding places whose names I knew merely from lurking here. For example, at one point we were walking down a street and saw Michael Stipe (which is kinda cool), then on the next corner I spotted Spotted Pig. You know you're a true eGulleteer when you're more excited about passing Spotted Pig than Michael Stipe. Being based in Soho (rather than mid-town) also made a huge difference to our experience, and we saw a totally different NY this time. It was really great.

We didn't take any pictures or notes during meals, so I can't offer a blow-by-blow account of our dining experiences. The best I can do is share a vague and fuzzy impression of our experiences as I remember them, and then maybe one or two general thoughts which may or may not be representative. I'm warning you here and now that this is going to be somewhat meandering. Early on I decided that I had to stop thinking of meals there in terms of a later eGullet report (which I admit is very selfish of me ) so what follows won't reach the dizzying heights of some other trip reports posted on eGullet

Okay then, our flight landed somewhat ahead of schedule, and the cab ride into Manhattan was quicker than I was expecting, so we found ourselves checked into the hotel around late-lunchtime. Hazel had a quick look at a map I'd printed out which had various likely restaurants marked on it. She pointed to one and said "let's walk to there", and so it was that a mere 2 hours after landing in NY we found ourselves in Katz's Deli. It struck me as I ordered my pastrami on rye and tipped the counterman that I really was glad I knew what I was doing, and that we had arrived at a very quiet time. It was pretty obvious the tourist element was very low, and that there were mainly locals there. I found it confusing enough as it was, and I was glad we weren't part of a 200 strong bus tour!

For a nervous pastrami virgin like myself, that first taste as offered by the counterman was something of a revelation. Prior to the trip, I genuinely was not expecting to enjoy or finish the sandwich, but I tucked in and demolished it fairly quickly. Simple but great stuff, and nothing we could ever get at home. Hazel had ordered a hot-dog to be on the safe side but she definitely regretted it. I gave her a small bite of my sandwich, but to those posters above who suggested sharing...no way!!

Feeling thoroughly sated, we set out on foot and took a large arc back to our hotel, going past WD-50 (checking it's location for later) through some of the Lower East Side and on into Chinatown and Little Italy. It struck us that on that short walk we saw more restaurants than many small cities have altogether. We arrived back to the hotel around 5:30, which gave us just enough time to have a nap and prepare ourselves for a 9:30 reservation at WD-50.

(more to follow...)

[HannaBanana]

For a nervous pastrami virgin like myself, that first taste as offered by the counterman was something of a revelation. Prior to the trip, I genuinely was not expecting to enjoy or finish the sandwich, but I tucked in and demolished it fairly quickly. Simple but great stuff, and nothing we could ever get at home. Hazel had ordered a hot-dog to be on the safe side but she definitely regretted it. I gave her a small bite of my sandwich, but to those posters above who suggested sharing...no way!!

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You're very loyal Simon, but I gorged myself on a Chilli Dog, as well as a very large side of Fries, and a hefty mouthful of your sandwich. The fries were fab - it's always nice eating them when they resemble something that once was a potato. While the pastrami on rye was tasty, I certainly couldn't have managed a whole one....

On our way to Katz's, (somewhere along Houston), we passed a cart selling the most amazing smelling Indian kebabs and bhajis. We never made it back there, which is a shame. It was the best smelling Indian food i ever inhaled.

More refutations and additions to follow....

[Simon_S]

WD-50 was a restaurant I was really looking forward to in many ways, but in other ways somewhat concerned about. I always have this fear when going to a very creative restaurant such as this that I'll be given a parade of ingredients that I don't really care for, or that I won't be sophisticated enough to get the "joke" or spot the intellectual aspect of the dishes. I felt this way prior to Alinea and el Bulli, but in both cases I need not have worried. However, having read some of the comments here and elsewhere, I wasn't so sure how WD-50 would stack up.

On arrival we were very surprised at how relaxed, small and "cool" the restaurant is. Somehow, I was expecting Alinea-lite, but that idea was dispelled within seconds. Another notable thing (to us) was that we would have to wait a couple of minutes for our table. Of course, this didn't bother us in any way shape or form, and we cheerfully sat at the bar and supped champagne, but it was a common enough occurrence over the next few days that I specifically noticed it. It served as a little reminder that we weren't in Europe anymore. It's always the little differences...

We knew in advance we were getting the tasting menu with wine pairings, so we wasted no time in ordering it, and the kitchen wasted no time in getting it out to us. We were continually surprised by how quickly food came out, which admittedly seemed in keeping with the atmosphere of the place. This wasn't fine dining in the conventional sense, but the pacing suited us very well given the impending jetlag.

Unfortunately, I can't remember the specifics of everything we ate (Hazel may be able to fill in later) but on balance I would have to say it was somewhat hit and miss. There were several courses that I enjoyed (the squab, the popcorn, the miso with noodles, the desserts) but there were some that just didn't work for me. The least successful IMHO was the "foie gras in the round" dish. With a texture not dissimilar to a bowl of rice crispies and a flavour with a strangely metallic tang, I found myself thinking that maybe this whole modern thing wasn't all it was cracked up to be. I could see no way in which the foie gras was "improved" by this preparation, and the mantra "don't f**k with the foie" kept circling around my head. Certainly, it was technically impressive, and I can't in any way fault the execution of the dish, but I just didn't find it tasty. Of course, YMMV, and I wouldn't dream of suggesting that it was in any way bad, but I was disappointed. Even the dishes I enjoyed I didn't really love, and I wouldn't say I have any overwhelming desire to eat them again. It's purely a question of taste, of course, but WD-50 didn't entirely bowl me over.

It sounds harsh to say it, but in many ways this was the most disappointing meal of the trip. We enjoyed the experience, we're glad we went, we had a good time, some of the food was impressive, but our expectations weren't really met. Whether that was a function of too-high expectations or of the meal itself is hard to say, but Alinea-lite it ain't. The wine pairings were reasonably enjoyable (if somewhat pedestrian) and the service was really friendly and perfectly competent. Our server, on hearing the "food pilgrimage" nature of our trip, was kind enough to suggest a few other restaurants, telling us people to ask for in said restaurants and to mention his name. I certainly couldn't fault the friendliness here.

In short then, I can see why people really rate WD-50, and I can see why people really don't rate WD-50. Given the multitude of restaurants in NY, I don't see myself going back, but in many ways that's a shame. I suspect that on another night, with a different menu, the experience could be different. For now though, it was back to the hotel before I fell out of my standing, my plans to go for after-dinner drinks postponed for now. Sleep was required, and I needed to make sure we were awake in time for lunch at Jean-Georges.

[HannaBanana]

The least successful IMHO was the "foie gras in the round" dish. With a texture not dissimilar to a bowl of rice crispies and a flavour with a strangely metallic tang, I found myself thinking that maybe this whole modern thing wasn't all it was cracked up to be. I could see no way in which the foie gras was "improved" by this preparation, and the mantra "don't f**k with the foie" kept circling around my head. Certainly, it was technically impressive, and I can't in any way fault the execution of the dish, but I just didn't find it tasty.

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That's because, simply put, it wasn't tasty. While novel, and technically brilliant, what's the point if it isn't tasty, or at least interesting in the mouth? I thought it was bland to the point of being tasteless.....

I felt the fish dishes were quite well done, and the Miso soup with noodles probably stole the show - rich, intensely flavoursed soup....Mmmm.....Shitkae mushrooms (if memory serves)......

A special mention must go out to desserts. They were really excellent, and probably some of the best we had in New York.

[Sneakeater]

FWIW, I think Simon nailed WD-50. I feel exactly the same way as him. (Hanna may trend a little too far negative for me.)

(BTW, it's so much fun reading you guys I almost feel bad for interrupting.)

Edited May 10, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[Nathan]

WD-50 shouldn't ever be characterized as "Alinea-lite"...WD-50 is far more analogous to Moto (Gilt under Liebrandt was supposed to be the NY Alinea).

both WD-50 and Moto are more molecular/cerebral than Alinea (which falls on the conservative end of the avant garde spectrum)....with the exception of the unique tablewear at Alinea.

in my view (and that of a number of others who have eaten at both restaurants), WD-50 falls more on the cerebral end of the "molecular" spectrum, while Alinea falls more on the "taste" end.

edit: I like WD-50 for what it is, but I could easily see how someone else would not.

also, Alex Stupak is the dessert chef at WD-50...he was doing the desserts at Alinea until last summer.

Edited May 10, 2007 by Nathan (log)

[HannaBanana]

FWIW, I think Simon nailed WD-50.  I feel exactly the same way as him.  (Hanna may trend a little too far negative for me.)

I get a lot less time than Si to carefully word and structure what I write, actually accomplishing something when I'm in work. Hence, the lack of... hmmmm... diplomacy?

Nonetheless, I did not get the point of the foie gras dish. Something as tasty as foie gras should not undergo a cooking/processing procedure, and end up less than the sum of it's parts.

(BTW, it's so much fun reading you guys I almost feel bad for interrupting.)

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Go right ahead - it's the only time Si really gets a chance to fully have his say

It's all part of our "organic approach" to posting!

Edited May 10, 2007 by HannaBanana (log)

[HannaBanana]

edit: I like WD-50 for what it is, but I could easily see how someone else would not.

I neither liked nor disliked it, tbh. In fact, I ended up a bit "m'eh" about the experience. Having eaten in Alinea and ElBulli (and I know it isn't correct to make a direct comparison) I just felt a little disappointed....Simply put, I thought it could have been better.

also, Alex Stupak is the dessert chef at WD-50...he was doing the desserts at Alinea until last summer.

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I'd heard that...which makes me feel a bit guilty praising the Desserts so highly....but they were awesome!

[Sneakeater]

Perhaps this should begin to go in the "WD-50" thread, but on my last visit there (within the last couple of weeks), I had the short rib. It was somehow reconstituted and then cooked sous vide.

It wasn't as good as a simple braised short rib.

Of course, I've had other dishes at WD-50 over the years that I've enjoyed very much (although none that I've loved).

As Simon says, it's hit and miss.

And as Hanna says, sometimes they take something good and make it a little bit worse.

[Simon_S]

Having been awakened at odd hours by our off-kilter bodyclocks, we had a tasty enough breakfast at the hotel (the Mercer), explored a little bit of Soho, and then caught a cab to midtown for lunch at Jean-Georges. We arrived a little early, so we took the opportunity to check out the Time Warner centre. Well, we would have done if Hazel hadn't been distracted by the Hugo Boss shop on the way in, but we did at least get to see the hallowed portals of Per Se, Masa, etc. That's certainly the flashest shopping mall dining I've ever seen.

Once inside Jean-Georges, deposited as we were at the bar (again supping a glass of bubbly) I was somewhat alarmed when I took in our surroundings, not to mention the food that other diners were eating. This wasn't really what I was expecting, and I had a moment of paranoia that I hadn't specified the dining room and that we were going to end up in Nougatine instead. My nerves were calmed when we were led into the restaurant proper, and shown to our most excellent alcove table which allowed us to look out into the room and indulge in some serious people watching. The highlight of this was probably the very well-to-do table in front of us, chock full of face-lifts, expensive bags and designer labels. Imagine my amusement when I saw the sommelier pouring one of Huia's wines for them. Now, Huia make perfectly nice wines, but a bottle costs about a tenner and is quite at home accompanying popcorn in front of the TV. I didn't feel nearly so bad about my more modest attire when I saw that...

The menu, when presented, caused us any number of problems, mainly because we wanted to eat everything. Having decided to add a course to the usual 3, we still managed to mis-count and were nearly ordering 4 savoury courses each. We eventually settled on sea urchin, foie gras brulee and sweetbreads for me; skate in butter and Chablis, langoustine ravioli (?) plus another seafood dish that's slipped my mind (scallops maybe?) for Hazel. We also opted for a cheese course because we'd seen the trolley doing the rounds earlier and wanted a piece of the action. Our interaction with the sommelier was most positive, leading to a bottle of Chassagne Montrachet (or was it Meursault) and a half bottle of red Burgundy, the details of which are lost to the ether. Combined with the champagne on arrival and the glasses of port we had with the cheese, you won't be too surprised to hear that the exact details of this meal are something of a blur. In fact, we can't even remember whether we had cheese instead of dessert or as well as dessert. Shame on us. I think it was probably as well as, in which case I almost certainly threw a glass of sweet wine into the mix. I think it's important when abroad to uphold the stereotype of the drunken Irish, and we did an admirable job here...

Despite the fuzziness on the details, I remember for certain that this was a cracking lunch, and left us with that nice warm glow that only the most successful meals can provide. Everything I ate I enjoyed, from the bread to the amuses, through the various courses, the cheese and all the way to the delicious marshmallow cut at the table. I'm smiling as I remember it. Interestingly, I found that in many of my dishes, heat (of chilli/wasabi) played an important role, and this was a first for me in this kind of restaurant. If I had a criticism it would be that such flavours sometimes lingered a little too long and became the dominant impression of a dish, but I'm really nitpicking here. Really, everything was delicious, service was fantastic and not at all stuffy, and we positively danced out into Central Park afterwards. I wish I could say more and be even the tiniest bit specific but, well, you know...

The experience was very different to a 3 (Michelin) star restaurant in Europe, and I found myself wondering if it was at the same level. In the end I decided that it probably was, although I'd love to go back for dinner to see what it can do. Of course, it goes without saying that for the prices being charged, lunch there is ridiculously good value -- stupidly so, in fact. I'll be doing it again.

In our deliriously happy state post-meal we stumbled into Tiffany's where we nearly crowned the moment by blowing the budget completely. Thankfully, we both saw the light just in time and floated off to the Trump Bar to recover and calm our nerves. Sadly, my peaceful state of mind was totally shattered by a visit to the Abercrombie shop on 5th Ave. Dear lord it was like a nightclub in there, and I felt very much like a lecherous dirty old man. That was a sure sign that I was returning to normal and the booze was wearing off, so after more shopping it was home for another nap (damn that jetlag) and onwards to Momofuku Ssam.

[HannaBanana]

.......Well, we would have done if Hazel hadn't been distracted by the Hugo Boss shop on the way in, but we did at least get to see the hallowed portals of Per Se, Masa, etc...

Stop squealing on me Simon!

....In fact, we can't even remember whether we had cheese instead of dessert or as well as dessert. Shame on us. I think it was probably as well as, in which case I almost certainly threw a glass of sweet wine into the mix. I think it's important when abroad to uphold the stereotype of the drunken Irish, and we did an admirable job here...

So much so that when we were leaving (literally, we were "Paddy(s)-last"), I had noticed a bread roll had fallen under a neighbouring table. In my all's-well-with-the-world state of inebrieation, I simply HAD to tell our waiter, pointing out that you'd only notice it if you sat in the exact spot I was in...

Simon nearly had to stop me from offering to climb in under the table to locate it for the waiter.

Despite the fuzziness on the details, I remember for certain that this was a cracking lunch, and left us with that nice warm glow that only the most successful meals can provide. Everything I ate I enjoyed, from the bread to the amuses, through the various courses, the cheese and all the way to the delicious marshmallow cut at the table. I'm smiling as I remember it.

'Nuff said.

....Sadly, my peaceful state of mind was totally shattered by a visit to the Abercrombie shop on 5th Ave. Dear lord it was like a nightclub in there, and I felt very much like a lecherous dirty old man.

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You loved it.

[Simon_S]

It's a bizarre experience setting an alarm for 2:30am to get up and have dinner. Granted, local time insisted it was only 9:30pm, but I knew different. We woke totally disorientated, not hungry, and very reluctant to do anything. For any other restaurant I simply wouldn't have bothered, but Hazel reminded me how much I was looking forward to this, so I tore myself from the mattress and off we went to Momofuku Ssam Bar. As soon as I opened the door I knew we'd done the right thing leaving our bed. Two chairs were vacant right at the counter, the place was alive and buzzing and our appetites were rapidly returning.

Having been told to ask for Cory by our server the previous evening at WD-50, we did exactly that and he pointed out some menu items that he felt were particularly good. He was a very friendly chap, and took great interest in our projected itinerary. Like many, he was impressed that we'd even heard of Momo Ssam. Where would we be with eGullet, eh? After much deliberation, we decided to go for hamachi, steamed buns, hangar steak ssam, brussels sprouts and sweetbreads. Having had sweetbreads earlier at J-G, I was somewhat reluctant, but Cory was very positive about them. I've never had sweetbreads twice in the one day before, but hey, it was that kind of trip.

The hamachi arrived first, and it was tasty enough, although maybe not really our cup of tea. We polished it off nonetheless and waited for the remaining dishes, all of which arrived together in a mini-feast. And what a feast it was. It's hard to describe the ecstasy that greet every bite, but this was just astonishingly tasty food. The sprouts and the sweetbreads were awesomely good, the steamed buns totally delicious and the ssam (despite my inability to eat it with even basic competence) extremely enjoyable. Given the lateness of the hour and our lack of hunger, we had thought we wouldn't be able to eat much. How silly of us! By the time we finished that little haul I knew I needed to taste something else, so we ordered a clay pot to share. I'm still fantasizing about the sauce contained therein such was its richness of flavour. Hazel wished she could do it more justice, but by then she was beaten. I put in a valiant effort with the clay pot, but I knew there was no room for anything resembling dessert.

Still, mindful of the fact that nights in NY are scarce, and buoyed up with enthusiasm from a marvellous day of eating, we decided we'd walk in the direction of Death & Co. If we felt up to it when we got there, we'd pop in for just the one...

[docsconz]

Great report, Si and Hanna. I am thoroughly enjoying it.

I'm sorry that you were underwhelmed y WD-50. Though I didn't share your opinion of the food there, I understand from whence you come as my wife and I had a similar experience at a highly touted vanguardista restaurant in Spain - El Poblet. The food was beautiful but in general we felt as if the taste and enjoyment of the dishes was less than the sum of the parts that went into it. I'm not of the mindset that a creative dish need be better than its parts or alternatives, but it should be at least as good with the manipulation itself making points for wit or real creativity. That is where I think the creativity at WD-50 really succeeds.

[HannaBanana]

Great report, Si and Hanna. I am thoroughly enjoying it.

I'm sorry that you were underwhelmed y WD-50. Though I didn't share your opinion of the food there, I understand from whence you come as my wife and I had a similar experience at a highly touted vanguardista restaurant in Spain - El Poblet. The food was beautiful but in general we felt as if the taste and enjoyment of the dishes was less than the sum of the parts that went into it. I'm not of the mindset that a creative dish need be better than its parts or alternatives, but it should be at least as good with the manipulation itself making points for wit or real creativity. That is where I think the creativity at WD-50 really succeeds.

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Glad you're enjoying our "Tag-team" action!

To be fair, I do think there is real creativity in WD-50, but it simply isn't my "bag".

Oh, and thanks a million for all of your advice to Si before the trip.

[Corinna Dunne]

The experience was very different to a 3 (Michelin) star restaurant in Europe, and I found myself wondering if it was at the same level. In the end I decided that it probably was, although I'd love to go back for dinner to see what it can do. Of course, it goes without saying that for the prices being charged, lunch there is ridiculously good value -- stupidly so, in fact. I'll be doing it again.

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Simon and Hanna, I'm really enjoying your report. Is there a special lunch menu at Jean-Georges and what price is it?

[Nathan]

Monday through Friday Jean-Georges offers a lunch of any two courses for $24 (it might be $28 now) and additional courses for $12 each.

separately, the Nougatine room has a $24 prix fixe lunch (this is boring compared to the dining room though)

[Stephen_K]

Whats up Baller ROTFLMAO

Brilliant thread Mr. S sorry I've got to it pretty late. I am a very jealous man...

[Simon_S]

Thanks to all for the feedback. J-G was indeed $28 for 2 courses and $12 for each additional. Naturally, by the time we were done we'd spent way more than that, but it's a good start and it means you can splash out a bit on the wine if you're so inclined. I'm told it also means 2 people can eat well and get in and out for less than $100, but I find that hard to believe.

Mr. K, don't go ruining my cred here. I *AM* baller, dammit!

To get back to my ramblings then, having eaten our fill at Momo Ssam, we walked the few blocks to Death & Co.. Not being familiar with NY, I was convinced I had the wrong address since the surrounding area was fairly quiet and residential, but no, there it was in all its understated glory. Even though we weren't sure we had the energy, our walk and the chill of the night had restored our spirits somewhat, so in we went "for one". Once my eyes had responded to the dim lighting, I found myself sitting at the bar in a much smaller room than I would ever have anticipated. This was my kind of place: somewhat muted conversation, decent jazz playing, and a bar filled to bursting with interesting looking bottles.

Not being a cocktail aficionado, I decided I'd just let the barman do his stuff within a few broad parameters. Nothing too sweet, don't care what alcohol, just bring it on. We were treated to a masterclass of cocktail preparation before our very eyes. I don't think I've ever seen drinks prepared with such a combination of reverence and style. Unfortunately none of them were for us! Two drinks appeared courtesy of the other barman, and I hadn't been watching him so I had no idea what went into them. Still, what I had was rye-based, and had a great combination of strength and smoothness, which is not my usual "cocktail" experience. We sat and supped, happily watching the show in front of us, and then decided it would be rude just to have the one, so we asked for another. Our barman served up a derivation of my first drink named a Red Hook, which was probably even better than the first.

We got talking and when it came up that we were over from Ireland, we got the by now familiar question "How did you hear about us?" They were quite amused when I said I knew all about them, and about the various licensing issues they had been dealing with. I'm delighted that such problems are now sorted. In any case, I can't remember the last time I met such friendly mixologists as Bryan and Joachim (sp?) We had a great chat, and they told us various other locations we should check out, barmen we should look out for, even giving us some hints on getting in to Milk and Honey. Sadly, we never got a chance to sample their suggestions, but I truly don't think I could have enjoyed them as much as I enjoyed Death & Co. It's the kind of place I'd only tell my very best friends about, lest it become overrun with noisy beer-swilling ruffians (see Pegu Club report later on!) We loved this place, and it will be on the itinerary for our next visit.

Si

[HannaBanana]

...In any case, I can't remember the last time I met such friendly mixologists as Bryan and Joachim (sp?)

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Joaquin, Simon.

He was cute, too!

Despite the fact that (for us) it was 6am, we probably would have kept drinking, given the skill with which they worked, the quality of the cocktails, and the general "people watching".

However, the JetLag was starting to get the better of us...Plus, it was closing time.

[Simon_S]

I'm not of the mindset that a creative dish need be better than its parts or alternatives, but it should be at least as good with the manipulation itself making points for wit or real creativity. That is where I think the creativity at WD-50 really succeeds.

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Doc, I thought of you often during our night at WD-50, and I was almost sorry to have to report our mixed feelings back to you! I totally agree with your point above that a dish can score points for wit or creativity without having to surpass the original, and I have argued as much with nay-sayers in the past. Indeed, some of the dishes at WD-50 did exactly that for me, the tongue being the most obvious example that comes to mind.

Again, I wouldn't like to give the impression to the casual reader that I thought this was a poor meal, because it certainly wasn't. Where the difficulty arises for me is that, with this food, there's always something of a risk that you won't like the taste/mouthfeel/experience of something, and that your ability to "expect" this reaction is less than at a standard restaurant.

If I saw a dish of celery and cucumber on a menu, I wouldn't order it because I don't like either ingredient. If I order a dish that I later discover has either as part of it, I'll subconsciously temper my expectations of taste accordingly, and I can decide whether or not I enjoy the dish within that expectation. Similarly if I order foie gras, I generally know what to expect. If I don't enjoy it, it's normally a question of poor execution or poor ingredients. Here, my dislike of the foie gras dish was not due to poor execution, nor poor ingredients, I just didn't like it! I didn't like the mouthfeel and I didn't really like the flavour, but hand on heart, I would have to say this is purely a personal preference. Someone else could sit beside me, have exactly the same dish and love it, and I'd have very little to argue with them about.

So with another menu, or maybe if we'd ordered a la carte, it's possible I'd be on here raving that WD-50 is the best restaurant in NY. I certainly would encourage those who feel they might enjoy it to go for it.

Si

[Simon_S]

The next day, I awoke with a hint of heartburn. This wouldn't be all that unusual for me, and was fairly unsurprising given the excess of our last few days. Still, where normally a couple of Zantak would bring it under control straightaway, on this day it just seemed to get worse and worse, and by the time I sat down for dinner in Daniel I knew I was in for an interesting night. It would be an exaggeration to say that every bite was a trial, but my usual enthusiasm was certainly somewhat dampened. Still, it was Hazel's birthday and we were going to have the taster menu, so I struggled gamely on!!

On arrival, I was fairly impressed with the meet n' greet and the general vibe of the place. This was certainly a cut above our other dining experiences in terms of atmosphere and I did a fair bit of gawking at jewellery and attire as we sat in the bar area munching addictive black olive grissini and drinking our champagne. I certainly wouldn't mind having this restaurant as my local eatery! When we were shown to the table, I thought the room looked very comfortable, even if our table was quite definitely not in the big-hitters section. Unfortunately, I was right beside a pillar so couldn't see much of the place. Of course, I only had eyes for Hazel anyway...

We were handed a wine list, which was as thorough as I was anticipating, and we both had a brief enough glance through before putting it to one side. I was surprised and, to tell the truth, a bit perturbed when I was asked by a waiter if I had decided on a wine. I told him, with as much politeness as I could muster, that I wouldn't be in a position to choose a wine until we had decided what we were going to eat. At this point, I stress, we each had a glass of champagne in front of us and we hadn't even seen a menu. Genuinely puzzled at this turn of events, I watched as the "tented table" filled up with 4 guests, the wine list was perused by one of them, and a bottle of red was ordered and served before menus were presented to them. Seriously, am I missing something here? Is this normal?

After all this, we decided to go the taster+pairings route. As alluded to above, the format of the taster at Daniel is that every course has a choice of 2 dishes. In many cases, we tried to order both dishes between us, except for a few that didn't take our fancy. Bread was served (a good selection) and butter (which I didn't really enjoy) and we were underway.

The first wine was selected from a nearby bucket and brought to the table. To my surprise, the waiter pouring didn't wipe it, and instead the bottle dripped onto the table, and more importantly all over the bread on Hazel's side plate. The same waiter, on serving us brioche with our foie gras course, dumped it slap-bang into the butter on both of our side plates. I wasn't in the mood for kicking up a fuss, and maybe these are small issues, but I wasn't very impressed. We got through the remainder of the meal without further incident, but those opening moments left a somewhat bad impression, so the restaurant was always playing catch-up in my mind.

Early on in the meal, I returned from the men's room to find Hazel deep in conversation with one of the waiters. He was an extremely nice chap and had been asking about our stay in NY. He was greatly impressed by our itinerary, once again asked how we'd managed to choose "all the good places", and said he'd have to tell the chef to be on the top of his game. He then asked us about other restaurants we'd been to, and we told him that last year our food pilgrimage had been to Lyon. Now, as you know, Daniel Boulud is originally from Lyon, so the waiter (wish I'd caught his name) said he'd have to tell the chef that also.

Sure enough, a little while later extra courses and wines started appearing. Under normal circumstances, I'd be delighted at such treatment, and of course we were flattered, but by this point my heartburn issues were really starting to make their presence felt, and I was finding things very difficult. By the time we got through the cheese, dessert and and the extra comped dessert, I was a beaten, broken man! I share this info because it certainly affected my enjoyment of the evening, and probably affected my views on the food itself. What follows should be read with this fact in mind...

What did I think of the meal? Truthfully, I was disappointed. I would describe the cooking as solid, the ingredients as fairly normal quality, and the service as somewhat uneven. At no point did I get that wow factor when something knocks you for six. At no point did I eat a bite and think "that's the best quality scallop/salmon/foie gras/carrot/whatever" I ever had. At no point did I feel that the FOH were truly in control and that I could just sit back in the knowledge that everything would run seamlessly. Everything we ate was good of course, there were no notable failures, and some things were very enjoyable, but I expected more.

My initial exposure to Daniel was when Michelin released their first red guide to NY. As I said somewhere upthread, I read a lot of articles that basically said if Daniel isn't a 3-star restaurant, then Michelin doesn't get NY. If that's the case, then I don't get it either! My experience there was a solid, straight-down-the-middle Michelin 2-star, no more.

Our exit kind of summed up our night. We paid our bill (having tipped well) stood up and left. Nobody wished us a pleasant evening, nobody asked if we had enjoyed ourselves, in fact, nobody said anything at all. I don't need to be fawned over, and I'm quite happy to just get up and go, but for a restaurant of this calibre I was surprised that they don't get the little things right. EMP for example was a whole different ballgame in this regard.

In many ways Daniel felt like a private members' club that I had been allowed into for the evening. The tables seemed to be filled with regulars who could be seen hugging various members of staff and who were visited by the chef on his rounds (our table wasn't included in his perambulations). I'm smart enough to realise that people like me aren't really their primary earner, I'm never going to spend enough there to put their kids through college, but I was somewhat surprised at the 2-tier feeling. Of course, on the other hand we were comped extra courses, and some of the waiters were genuinely warm, friendly and interested, so maybe I'm just being silly.

Look, I was very cranky that night, and I'm probably being overly harsh. Hazel, have you anything to add that might temper this criticism a little? I still can't quite get my thoughts on the place straight in my mind.

[HannaBanana]

Simon had pre-warned me that his review of Daniel might be a little harsh, and that I was to temper same with my own birthday-glow and champagne-induced feelings of wamth and fuzziness from the evening.

While I had a good night, it wasn't a great night. I enjoyed Momofuku the night before far more. As such, I have little to add to the above. While I really appreciated the waiter making an effort to talk to me while I sat like something of a lemon on my own, and while it's always nice to be comped something (unless you're suffering from really bad heartburn caused by overindulgence ) I was really quite disappointed with the whole experience.

The spilling water all over the table and my (admittedly very nice) bread and butter, the wine fiasco, the "chuck the (pretty poor) brioche onto my wet and buttery plate" incident kinda set the tone...For an...incomplete, or somehow deficient... experience.

Now, I'm not a princess. In a certain 3* place, when a winged monster crawled out of my salad, I happily brushed him off the plate and continued to eat....I don't expect waiters to crawl and be obsequious. However, the service didn't inspire confidence. The food, while it was very good, wasn't exquisite, and FOH seemed only interested in the regulars. Again, like Simon said, that to be expected to a certain degree....However, we were made feel a little like interlopers....

[Simon_S]

I have little to add to the above.

←

Great. Thanks!

I feel a little awkward about this, not least because I don't want to be that tourist who flies in and pisses all over a cherished NY dining institution on the basis of one visit. Nor do I want to hint that "European dining is just so much better" which I think I'm dangerously close to doing with my Michelin comments. If it reads that way, it shouldn't.

Si