Help explain Midnight Cellars' Zinfandel

[Michael M]

A non-wine friend bought us a bottle of this Paso Robles wine, a 2004, I believe. It was interesting to us, who tend toward leaner, food-friendly wines or just lower alcohol wines in general.

This didn't seem terribly out of balance for what it was trying to be, I believe. Rather rich, a sense of sweetness not from RS but glycol/alcohol, rich with some earth beyond the otherwise overwhelming fruit. But incredibly fat, and I don't mean that in a good way, necessarily.

I assume this was meant to be drunk alone, or with chocolate, as it was almost port-like in its syrupyness and overall impact. It was fine by itself for a glass as well, I think. But what's the draw for a bottle like this? Wine w/o food I have no problem with; it doesn't have to be enjoyed in a certain way. But I wouldn't drink a whole bottle of tawny, either, with or without the food!

Is this a good example of zins from the region? There wasn't much in the way of core to it, either tannin or acid, though I realize it's a CA zin.

Are there better examples? How do people enjoy these? Are they marketed towards Bigger Is Better, RP scores, etc.? I guess I've been more impressed with the Italian primitivos.

[Rebel Rose]

Hi, Michael. It is quite common for producers to leave a little RS (residual sugar) in higher alcohol wines as it helps to balance the mouthfeel and flavors. Our Cujo Zinfandel is one example. Turley zins also have perceptible RS. So sweet, high alcohol zins may simply not be your thing.

Having said that, I admit that some zins are really syrupy, due to an unfortunate lack of acidity, and without that zip a sweet zin can be quite cloying.

However, I think Midnight Cellars is a very good, very consistent producer. I haven't tried their 2004 zinfandel, so I can't comment on that specifically. I do think Midnight wines are a good example of Paso zinfandel, and definitely not styled for high scores. Midnight shoots for varietal accuracy and regional typicity. In the last Wine Advocate, for example, over 80% of the zinfandels that got scores over 90 from Robert Parker were heavy blends of zinfandel, syrah, mourvedre, alicante, etc. One high scoring 'zinfandel' was only 58% zin! Although winemaker Rich Hartenberger makes some really delicious and powerful blends, he also producers some very nice examples of 100% varietal zinfandel, cabernet and sangiovese.

[jackal10]

I love a good zin, but I also decry this tendency to fruit bombs, usually designed for fast consumption.

I guess I compare a good red zin to an old fashioned Rhone that matures for 20 years or so. I doubt if these high alcohol, sweet, low tannin monsters would last. They are like fast food, and probably best drunk with same.

Edited August 29, 2006 by jackal10 (log)

[Michael M]

Thanks to both. I do think this had some depth and earth to it, but what would one match it with? I'm thinking grilled red meat?

[russ parsons]

i feel the same way--which i'm afraid means that most of the zins grown in california don't work for me. to me, a great zin has some grace to it. i remember tasting one from hartford court (i don't have my notes, but i believe it was dina's vineyard) that was absolutely beautiful. and about 14%. i also find that zinfandel, probably more than any other grape, reflects the age of the vines. this one came from 100-year-old vines in some lady's front yard.

on the other hand, i remember tasting one of the first turley's. i was at one of those walk-around tastings and larry stuck a glass at me and said "here, taste this." then the said "how much alcohol do you think?" i knew it was a bomb, so i guessed 15%. "Nope, 17%," he said. "doesn't taste like it, does it?" actually, it did.

[Rebel Rose]

Thanks to both.  I do think this had some depth and earth to it, but what would one match it with?  I'm thinking grilled red meat?

Absolutely. Can you buy tritip, or triangular roast, where you live? Marinate in some zinfandel, herbs, and molasses, roll it in coarse pepper, and grill it up. I like to make a salad of baby greens, arugula, raspberries and toasted pine nuts, dressed with a vinaigrette of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, dash of zinfandel, and herbs. And maybe some Gorgonzola mashed potatoes . . .

A rich zinfandel also goes well with grilled portabellas stuffed with Gorgonzola.

Warning: shamless self promotion:

Winemaker Rich of Midnight Cellars was one of my recipe-testing guinea pigs for my cookbook, Fresh from Dover Canyon. Every single recipe is winemaker-tested, winemaker-approved. Sometimes more than once. Just to be sure, they said.

Rich is an awesome cook himself, and often includes his own recipes and pairing suggestions in his wine club shipments. Don't hesitate to call or email Midnight Cellars and ask about recipes or food pairings.