French wines

[Florida Jim]

2001 Fourrier, Morey-St. Denis Clos Solon VV:

This wine has ‘muscle tone;’ a soft first touch, smoothly textured skin and a deep, firm core; black fruit and chocolate on an expansive nose with hints of damp earth; the same clean flavors in an integrated, balanced and nicely complex palate; an almost etched minerality on the long finish brightens and makes the mouth water. Well resolved now but in no danger of fade. Terrific juice; price unknown. Thanks Bill.

2004 Terres Dorees (Brun), Fleurie:

Ready to go (albeit young), beautifully aromatic and textured Fleurie; good fer ya’ and damn good with crab cakes. Delicious! About $19; I would so pay this again.

1999 Jaboulet, Cornas:

It’s like Hermitage from Cornas; clean, focused, expressive and full of character but understated and holding something back – no, it’s not Allemand but it will do very nicely with cheese. Good wine, still showing young and seems to have a lot in reserve - hold. About $33 on sale; I’d pay that again.

2004 Drouhin, Beaujolais-Villages:

Stuck in a city I’m not familiar with, the local liquor store has this; smells fresh and black fruity; tastes clean, black fruit, mineral and very light earth hints with good depth and structure; medium length, lip-smacking finish. Drouhin is reliable and this wine is excellent. $10, full retail; I’d pay that again.

2004 Drouhin, Chablis:

Same city, different luck (and just when I thought I’d found reliability); green and almost stemmy on the nose; better on the palate but still that unripe character is there; not pleasant. $20; I would not pay that again.

($5 more and I get the 2002 V. Dauvissat, village wine; there is no comparison – the Dauvissat rocks!)

2004 Pepiere, Muscadet:

Probably my fortieth bottle of this and it is every bit as refreshing and life-affirming as the first. $10; worth it and then some.

2004 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Fortune:

Two days after opening (stoppered and left on the counter) this bottle is soft and short but certainly yummy; previous bottles have been equally delicious but harder to read. A tip of the cap to Mr. B-wood who commented that this was short and evidenced young vines; sure enough, young vines make good wine but not something to keep around long term. Drink now. $19; I’d certainly pay that again.

2004 Terres Dorees (Brun), Cote de Brouilly:

‘While back I said this was stemmy and under-ripe – David Lille (Chambers Street Wines) said it was pure and perfect – David was right and I wasn’t; beautiful nose of dark fruit and earth; lots of fruit in a crisp, focused delivery; pure, driven finish. A couple months in the cellar has brought this to a terrific place (as David predicted), full of life and verve. $20; I’d surely pay that again.

Best, Jim