Five wines

[Florida Jim]

2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vineyard:

Although Copain is in Santa Rosa, this vineyard is in the Anderson Valley.

Cool from the cellar: black fruit, wintergreen, fresh picked herbs and turned earth aromas; crunchy, deep and racy black fruit with some earth tones on the palate; concentrated, fine tannins, viscous but plenty of cut - the acidity is such as to give a bit of tonic water element to the texture; medium length, slightly astringent finish. Shows young, primary and has the structure, fruit and acid to keep.

As it warmed: the 14.2% alcohol intrudes as the palate muddies and the texture takes on an artificial feel that isn’t vinous to me. I did not catch any heat on the palate and finish but the influence of the alcohol is evident throughout.

A quandary; do I keep other bottles of this to see what happens or drink them immediately (and cold) so they can’t get any worse? About $40 on release; I’d not buy it again.

1999 Paloma, Syrah:

A medium weight, southern Rhône-ish nose and flavor profile with a supple texture but little nuance. This wine is 14.2% also but it seems to carry it without noticeable flaws. About $42 on release; I’d not buy it again at that price.

2005 Tegernseerhof, Rosé-Zweigelt Dürnsteiner:

An 11.5% pink from the Wachau made by Franz Mittelbach; pale salmon; light cherry and stone scents; ripe but not sweet with light cherry flavors and some dissolved carbon dioxide (I think) which perks the palate, texturally smooth and viscous despite evident acidity; clean, mouthwatering finish. Perfect. About $11; I’d buy it again at that price.

2000 Nigl, Riesling Goldberg:

A vintage that produced some nice, little rieslings in Austria but few great ones (the Steiner Hund being a notable exception) – this was massively acidic two years ago but has softened, balanced out and become expressive with a touch of RS. It will never me my favorite but it is world’s better than early on and clearly of its place. About $29 at release; I’d not buy it again at that price.

2002 Baumard, Savennières:

Stony, smoky, floral, herb tea and lime with some simple syrup scents; viscous, integrated, plenty of cut, good balance and depth, incredible length and terrific flavor complexity. Good, dry chenin is such a unique wine; powerful yet subtle, rich and still bright; glorious, stimulating juice. About $20; I’d buy it again at that price.

Best, Jim

Edited June 25, 2006 by Florida Jim (log)