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Lacroix is gone, is Georges next... who takes over

matthewj

By matthewj
in Pennsylvania: Dining

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matthewj

matthewj

Posted
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Nafairge.

As a line cook at the Four Seasons we referred to Chef as Darth Vader. Always in black, and shaking a menacing presence. I am glad you have respect for the man. Most line cooks do. And they should. The situation that they are in right now is not good. And could have been avoided years ago. The decisions to replace Chef with someone who never worked for him, ever, and is not French, (lets face it, DF would have made a transition easier. ) Is a slap in the face to everyone who spent countless hours for an idea of better food, a greater restaurant, a better team. Believe me if I knew 5 years ago that this guy was going to take Chefs job, I would have never started working for Chef at Lacroix. Neither would have anyone. Legacy is very important. Now we have none.

We collectively feel that chef and the management did us an injustice at one time or another, and believe me, it is frustrating. They had it great at the Rittenhouse for a long time, garnered a slew of awards, had a lot of talent in one building They got greedy, and lazy. They are going to feel the whirlwind.

That being said. When chef leaves there will, will, will, be a huge gap in fine dinning restaurant. He is one of the few last chefs in that city who have worked eaten and toiled in 3 Star restaurants. He has a ton of experience. a gap will be left. Period. It could have been avoided. He could have passed the torch and made it better, but they decided to skuttle the ship. Aren't you curious why? That is my crux.

So my question, which V and others have chimed in and contributed is who is next.

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bigboss

bigboss

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I always enjoy watching you revel in your invective nature, Matt. Only the son of a beekeeper would stick his hand into the hive like you. Skulky, that is an adorable little story about your first night on the line, congratulations to you. However, the duplicitous manner in which Chef manages his people, his lying and manipulation, pitting friends against each other and so forth in order to create an atmosphere in the kitchen diminishes the value of each time he has been outright helpful and encouraging. There's a big discrepancy between the Chef you know as a line cook and the Chef we have known as sous-chefs. And believe you me, I would love to open my own restaurant in Philly and dole out my particular vision of Good Food; I just gotta get more involved in matters of business and see what comes up.

Edited by bigboss (log)
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matthewj

matthewj

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you know where i stand on the opening restaurant in Philadelphia, I would love to. But lack of funds, and name that are both needed. It comes back to chef, and his lack of help in this arena. Ever.

well BB when i jump in I am never shy.

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Vadouvan

Vadouvan

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See day old blini batter. No good. Thank you for making my argument more saleable

Although Matt, not to be toooooo technical....

Thanks to our friends at the DOW chemicals Food Division and that fabulous product Methocel...

You can make 3 day old blini batter with no eggs and it sets up consistently like Viagra was added to it ..... :laugh:

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Vadouvan

Vadouvan

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Actually Chris Lee was working for Cornelius Gallagher at Oceana.

Lee and Portale came together at the Bass.

The Portale angle came as another of Starr's NYC-celeb-chef-show-us-Philadelphilistines what good food is all about. Works most of the time but the chef's eventually disappear as soon as people for get.

If you actually see Morimoto at Morimotodelphia, I will pay for your Omakase....

Also Matt, the same philosophy of non cultivation drove a lot of good folks away from Le bec.

It sucks when the boss is competeing with his cooks.

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shawng

shawng

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Good for christopher Lee and great for philly.

Congrats to the striped bass.

:smile:

Excuss me for I am a newbee on the egullet thread. I agree with you V,matt and

bb whole heartedly and it is this type of passion that we need in philly. Unfortunatly I feel the training at many of these establishments aren't there and therefore people don't have the common sense to what good food is.... (see blini boy and every cook that told him it was ok) And therefore that relats back to the customers and their knowledge. It is our job through the course of time to show and teach our young consumers what good food is. But first theres the bigger problem of the average line cooks knowledge and skill level and determination they are not all like us. This problem however is everwhere the talent level is so watered down it is disappointing. Frankly it is very easy to be critical when going out to eat when most of the time the simplest thing can not be done right. Certainly we have to walk the walk, but hopefully anyone talking this thread actually uphold standards.

Philly does move slowly and we are very eager people we want change and good food and I believe clientele want at least good food but 2 problems arrive. 1. Alot of them now not all of them, don't know what good food is. 2. Most of which are scared of change and are not willing to support it (aka new local talent) and would rather get there $12 cocktails and a colorful crabcake at a star place to be seen of course.

This can be changing but the reason fine dining is dying is just simply stated the person who said his last fine dining meals where 2 to 3 years ago. Well with that kind of following no restaurant can survive. Even Per Se's numbers have decreased and this is a young restauarant. Of course they can afford it but they are an exception.

Now I must apologize because I am jumping around alot, but I didn't pick up the F&W but heard about Chris Lee and think that is very good for Philly. Hopefully he can start something good and start a good foundation where talent can grow and not just beg borrow and steal tricks from that will be no good to them in the future. Lee got the bass job through is own networking I believe. I could be wrong but there is this guy who is essentially a head hunter call Kitchen Miaestro I'm sure you have heard of him V. But Lee also worked for Gras and so did Cornealous back in the day so we are all in a small web here. Now assuming a few things, its refreshing to see LOYALTY being paid as it should be. Unlike anything I saw at Lacroix for the exception of one lonely sole.

Yes and Hells Kitchen unfortunatly as much as it is funny and amusing this happens to be a perfect example of how sad our field is becoming. Even the couple of people that was supposed to have a clue don't. Although someone brought up a good point that I and BB only had one maybe to dirt like people in our kitchen imagine a whole kitchen of aka's dirts. (dirt being a particular individuals nickname.)

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Vadouvan

Vadouvan

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Agree with Shawng.....although I am not quite sure PerSe's numbers are down, TK seems to be immune to cyclical trends in food expenditure that's why its good to be the king, Thomas Keller still rules and he supports his former people like Achatz/Alinea.

People seem to be taking the phrase "fine dining" is dead out of context.

We arent saying supernice restaurants are all going to close tommorow, It;s just that a lot of high end chef's and restaurants are simplifying.

And it isnt just philly and new york.

Alain Senderens turned Lucas carton into a more chill spot and handed back his michelin stars, even the king of Multi-Plate-city Gagnaire is opening chill spots although that spot called sketch in London represents everything that is wrong with high end dining in Europe.

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Vadouvan

Vadouvan

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AND .......................by the way

Since we all repect Chef Lacroix so godammn much can we change the spelling of his name in the title of this thread into the correct spelling ?

It's starting to bother me..... :shock:

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shawng

shawng

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Agree with Shawng.....although I am not quite sure PerSe's numbers are down, TK seems to be immune to cyclical trends in food expenditure that's why its good to be the king, Thomas Keller still rules and he supports his former people like Achatz/Alinea.

Now of course I don't have numbers in front of me or hard evidence to proof this I've been told from a view creditable people in the biz that there cover count is down about 15% whether by choice or not I don't know. But this is info I believe to be true and the life of a restaurant like this can not be stable unless you recieved a deal such as TK did or have a more chill place like alot of them have. Like those you mentioned.

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philadining

philadining

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OK, I must say, it's really entertaining, and enlightening, to be able to eavesdrop on this very inside conversation. It would usually take buying a lot of drinks for a bunch of half-dead, sauce-stained guys at a dingy, smoky after-hours joint to get good dirt like this!

But I have to ask, is "shoemaker" a widely-understood slang in the biz? I like it...

And I presume "beekeeper's son" is a specific reference, but I'm thinking of adding it to my lexicon anyway.

Carry on!

"Philadelphia’s premier soup dumpling blogger" - Foobooz

philadining.com

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shawng

shawng

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By the way agreeing with V simplifying can and is a good thing.. I don't think that these restaurants are going to close tommorrow but it certainly makes things harder for us to do something high end. We all just need to build and be patient. Kind of like what BB said about doing his take on good food and then from there taking things and his followers to another level gradually. JML and George aren't known for buiding an empire overnight they are known for their consistency throughout the years.

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Holly Moore

Holly Moore

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AND .......................by the way

Since we all repect Chef Lacroix so godammn much can we change the spelling of his name in the title of this thread into the correct spelling ?

It's starting to bother me..... :shock:

All better.

Now, how does everyone feel about "George" in the title as opposed to "Georges" :smile:

Holly Moore

"I eat, therefore I am."

HollyEats.Com

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