Languedoc Roussillon

[Abra]

If you happen to be near Euzet les Bains, try La Bastide de Mamette . It's a tiny restaurant with only 12 seats, and one must reserve for either lunch or dinner. Not knowing this, we arrived unannounced, and as we were the only ones asking for lunch, the owners made us feel as if we were eating in their home. Which, technically, we were since this is also a chambre d'hote.

We had a delicious meal of a house made aperitif infused with figs and orange blossoms and some great olives, followed by a pâte feuilleté with warm pelardon, honey, thyme and fresh grapes, then duck breast cooked on lavender and served with a cream that included lavender and a violette liqueur plus really lovely beignets of courgettes with a little cinnamon and some excellent thyme-sautéed mushrooms, an assortment of cheeses including one sheep whose name I've forgotted, Banon, and Roquefort, then a dessert of a caramelized banana cream. This was accompanied by a full bottle of Feuille de Garance red and an espresso each. A screaming deal at 30 Euros a person, and a very cute little town.

[Vinotas]

Not only did Vinotas have a super meal at O Bontemps, recently, but it was written up this month very enthusiastically by our edgy new publication oMni.

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LOL!

I was just about to recommend O Bontemps when I saw this post.

Cheers!

[Dave Hatfield]

If you happen to be near Euzet les Bains, try La Bastide de Mamette .  It's a tiny restaurant with only 12 seats, and one must reserve for either lunch or dinner.  Not knowing this, we arrived unannounced, and as we were the only ones asking for lunch, the owners made us feel as if we were eating in their home.  Which, technically, we were since this is also a chambre d'hote.

We had a delicious meal of a house made aperitif infused with figs and orange blossoms and some great olives, followed by a pâte feuilleté with warm pelardon, honey, thyme and fresh grapes, then duck breast cooked on lavender and served with a cream that included lavender and a violette liqueur plus really lovely beignets of courgettes with a little cinnamon and some excellent thyme-sautéed mushrooms, an assortment of cheeses including one sheep whose name I've forgotted, Banon, and Roquefort, then a dessert of a caramelized banana cream.  This was accompanied by a full bottle of Feuille de Garance red and an espresso each.  A screaming deal at 30 Euros a person, and a very cute little town.

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You're now on the map! More reviews please.

[Abra]

I like being on the map! Here's a link to some photos of our lunch at La Bastide de Mamette French Letters

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Thank you, Abra, for this first hand info. Le Bastide de Mamette was one of two contenders for a spring '08 visit to the area. Unfortunately, I now see, I have reserved at another chambre d'hote in the area, La Bruguierre to the west in Durfort. We will probably, over time, visit both. I would, however, be interested to know if you have visited La Bruguierre and what your experience was. It was my sense that Mamette was more commercial, but from your report I think that it is not.

Again, thanks for the report and for the link to your good blog.

[Abra]

Margaret, we haven't yet been to Durfort, but Mamette is the furthest thing from commercial that I can imagine and the people, he from Marseilles, she Belgian, are as nice as one would hope for in hosts.

However, it's the only thing happening in Euzet, so unless you want total peace and quiet you might want to stay elsewhere and just go there for a meal.

[Abra]

Do we have an Avoidance Map? If you read online, as I did, that Le Vietnam in Nimes is a good source for authentic Thai food, just walk on by. I wish we had!

[Dave Hatfield]

Do we have an Avoidance Map?  If you read online, as I did, that Le Vietnam in Nimes is a good source for authentic Thai food, just walk on by.  I wish we had!

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Well we do now. I've added a symbol (a red triangle with an exclamation mark inside it.) to indicate places to be avoided.

Now if anyone posts a severely negative review I will add it to the map. Please though let's limit the marked places to the truly awful.

[Abra]

Well, to be fair, their Vietnamese food might be better, since they advertise Thai but are really Viet. My home Thai cooking is ten times better than theirs. I wouldn't say it's truly vile, but it's ridiculously expensive in any case for what you get, so you decide if it deserves the red triangle of shame.

[Vinotas]

I might also add l'Auberge du Cedre, which I recently posted about on my blog, at the foot of the Pic St Loup, outside Montpellier. Beautiful setting, delicious food, it's the epitome of a Languedoc or Southern French restaurant.

Here's the website:

http://perso.orange.fr/auberge-du-cedre/index.html

As usual, no relationship, just a very satisfied (and full) customer.

Cheers!

[Margaret Pilgrim]

I might also add l'Auberge du Cedre...

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I agree, Vinotas, this is a lovely address.

For the uninitiated, this auberge offers several levels of room and meals. Most rooms are very simple; the Garden Room, however, is enormous and comparitively sumptuous. Demi-pension is available, and these guests have a seperate dining room in which a very simple set menu is served. Those guests who opt for a la carte can select from a full menu of much more sophisticated plates. The Auberge's excellent list of local wines is available in either room. And enormous breakfasts (assortment of juices, several breads, rolls, cakes, yogurt, fresh and aged cheeses, boiled eggs) are served to everyone in the main dining room.

[Gourmandolo]

Hey,

Any chance anyone knows anything about a small culinary academy in Cap D'Agde called "GASTRONOMICOM" ?

I'm hopefully posting in the right spot as it's in this region...

Although this thread is pretty old !!

Thanks guys !!

Bonjour,

How are you all doing? So it is confirmed now that I will be staying in and around Cap d'agde and montpellier for 3 months!!! I'm really excited and will be leaving May 31st, I will be working (as a cook)/travelling and after that I will be back packing in europe for another month and a half (12 countries in total). My questions is, what should i take advantage of during this time.

Is there anything specific I should eat or try or perhaps buy and bring back?

I have researched all the fine dining foods int he area but besides that are there hidden local secret eateries i should try?

Any information will be greatly appreciated!!     

Thanks,

Steven

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[Abra]

I almost hate to do it, but I have to disagree with the recommendation for Auberge du Cedre. We were there last week and really didn't enjoy it much. As Margaret Pilgrim states above, the Garden Room is probably nice, but it's only available for a 2 night stay. The remaining rooms are on the down side of basic, and you have to leave the room and go either up or down steep stone stairs to the toilet, and more stairs to the shower. The welcome was on the cool side of friendly. And someone was mowing about a 2 acre field around the auberge with a hand electric mower, which made an amazing racket for at least 4 hours from our arrival until dark fell.

But the restaurant was the real disappointment. The entire menu wasn't available, just the demi-pension, and it too was the down side of basic. They served the main course family style and I not only had to ask for clean plates to put it on, not wanting salad dressing on my couscous, but the server acted amazed that I'd even request such a thing. There were lots of things available for breakfast, but several of the items mentioned above cost extra, 1.50 Euros per egg, extra for cheese.

I wouldn't go back there unless I happened to be already passing through and there was nowhere else to stay. Not sure why our experience was so different, but that's how it was.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

I can understsand and agree with all of Abra's comments and caveats. Let me clarify my recommendation.

L'Auberge du Cedre is a fine address when you book the Garden Room and ascertain beforehand that the a la carte dining room will be serving on your nights. It is worth a stay if only for its wine list which is reflective of the best of the Languedoc and is very well priced.

The pension meal is, as Abra suggests, of mess hall quality, and reading between the lines from other travelers and of the official website, bordering of primitive.

[kerriar]

I have to rush in with a (modulated) defense of Auberge Du Cedre - indeed the place does have its quirks.

Both Graham Tigg http://www.languedoc-dining.com and the Auberge's own website tell you that the restaurant really only functions at weekends.

The rest of the time it has to be admitted that it comes close to an extremely good youth hostel - but the great wine list never shuts and the location has its own magic. It's really therefore a great place to go with kids who enjoy the run of the grounds and the building with its informality and lovely setting.

Yes , accomodation is a bit old fashioned (especially when it comes to bathrooms) but the prices are still fair.

From Friday to Sunday the food is everything you would expect in this part of France but I have to admit that on longer stays we often went elsewhere on the evenings when the service was reduced.

Over the years we've found with friends that some of them like the mix that is A du C but others prefer something else.

Edited June 16, 2008 by kerriar (log)

[glauer]

my two cents:

It is definitely true that it is extremely basic, but so are the prices. If one can live with those limitations I find it a great place for a few relaxed days. And the winelist together with the terrasse definitely make up for a lot.

Regarding the food during the week: if anybody knows the youth hostel with that quality of simple food please let me know. I still remember the taste of the saucissons du Toulouse with ratatouille. Simple yes, but also very tasty.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Well defined, kerriar and glauer. I will add that during our stay we noticed several apparently quite affluent French and German families who, since we had the Garden Room, were obviously staying in the simpler quarters. The Auberge du Cedre is a quintessential mid-Century European experience.

[Gavin Convery]

I am on holiday in the Languedoc from next wednesday. I have Mimosa and Auberge du Cedre booked. Any further thoughts on the current favourites?

I like the look of O Bontemps and Table de Saint Crescent. I am also looking for a good seafood place in the Sete/Agde/Marseillan area.

Also as I am staying just outside Soubes I shall probably go to the le Temps de Vivre in Poujols as it is so close - any recent visits to this place? Finally, I can't resist the idea of going to Restaurant Baldy in Fondamente, as it seems rather appropriate in my case ;-) It has a bib gourmand but I can't find any comments on it anywhere....

On wine related topics - does anyone know of domaines which welcome visitors? It seems as though Mas de Daumas Gassac may be set up to receive visitors but any others you would recommend?

[tracyinfrance]

Gavin,

A couple of dining suggestions for you.

Pezenas is where I live and although it is very touristy at this time of year a few recommendatons for you

L'Entrepots - very cosmopolitan brasserie/bistro with a fantastic team, you must book though as they get really busy 04 67 90 00 00

A great wine bar has opened and offers 'tapas' and great wine selections by glass or bottle - Bar à Vin de Pezenas on Cours Jean Jaures.

Vieux Coq in Place Gambetta is very simple but very good, Margerette is in the kitchen and there are generally three or four things on the blackboard and once she has sold out she just rubs it off the board!

In Marseillian there is Chateau du Port - owned by Porcell bros.

Bouzigues is great for plateau de fruit de mer!

A couple of wineries around our area

Domaine Paul Mas (route de Villeyverac, leaving Montagnac) Mas de Fonti, a bit further towards Villeyverac on the same road.

Domaine Saint Hilaire and St Martin de la Garrigue on the road to Meze from Montagnac. All of these welcome visitors but not at the weekend. Normally they are closed over lunchtime, until about 2.30pm

Hope the above is of help!

[Gavin Convery]

Tracy,

Thank you so much for your quick response...I shall investigate your suggestions.

I like the look of the Bar a Vins - do you think you would need to book for that? Would they be happy with 2 well behaved children?

BTW your hotel looks fabulous (at least I'm assumimg it's your hotel from the trip advisor write ups) and as I have no connection I can with clear conscience print the link here:

http://www.hoteldevigniamont.com/

Edited July 25, 2008 by Gavin Convery (log)

[Margaret Pilgrim]

I can't believe that I didn't post about La Bruguiere here since it was immediately one of our favorite table d'hotes. With apologies, here is what I wrote elsewhere:

Pascale and Philippe Nusswitz incorporate their previous lives in the hospitality industry and as a top sommelier into their chambre d'hote sideline at their lovely vineyard in Durfort (just south of Anduze and Ales) in the Languedoc. We stayed with them for two nights in the separate and private "Magnanerie" suite, a converted silkworm "factory", and enjoyed their generous table both nights. Pascale is a fine cook, and Phylippe thrives on sharing and discussing their wines. All this at 85€ a night for the suite (an off-season rate), including breakfast and 30€ each for a lovely dinner that included aperitif and hors d'oeurvres in front of the fireplace, 4 courses with a different wine for each course. Pascale and Philippe are darling and interesting. We've already fit them into next year's schedule.

La Bruguiere is centrally located to act as a hub for exploring the Languedoc.

This chambre d'hote, vineyard and winemaking are second careers for Pascale and Philippe. She caught the hospitality bug when she worked with Relais and Chateaux and Philippe was named "Sommelier of the Year" in France in the mid-80s, also worked and traveled with Paul Bocuse. Interesting people.

Adding, there wines are superb and reasonable.

[grahamtigg]

I am on holiday in the Languedoc from next wednesday. I have Mimosa and Auberge du Cedre booked. Any further thoughts on the current favourites?

I like the look of O Bontemps and Table de Saint Crescent. I am also looking for a good seafood place in the Sete/Agde/Marseillan area.

Also as I am staying just outside Soubes I shall probably go to the le Temps de Vivre in Poujols as it is so close - any recent visits to this place?

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O Bontemps is the restaurant of the moment in the area and seems to be booked up weeks ahead this time of year. Just as good, and I find a little more refined, it Octopus in Beziers (Olivier B helped establish it a few years ago). Reserve a table outside in their private courtyard.

Went to le Temps de Vivre last year and the cooking is still excellent. Go in daylight to enjoy the view.

L'Entrepots is a good choice if in Pezenas. Another place to consider and reasonable striking distance from Soubes is Ocre Rouge in Herepian.

Our most recent discovery in the area is de Lauzun in Gignac. A bit more urban than country but the chef has talent and sound training.

[Gavin Convery]

I am on holiday in the Languedoc from next wednesday. I have Mimosa and Auberge du Cedre booked. Any further thoughts on the current favourites?

I like the look of O Bontemps and Table de Saint Crescent. I am also looking for a good seafood place in the Sete/Agde/Marseillan area.

Also as I am staying just outside Soubes I shall probably go to the le Temps de Vivre in Poujols as it is so close - any recent visits to this place?

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O Bontemps is the restaurant of the moment in the area and seems to be booked up weeks ahead this time of year. Just as good, and I find a little more refined, it Octopus in Beziers (Olivier B helped establish it a few years ago). Reserve a table outside in their private courtyard.

Went to le Temps de Vivre last year and the cooking is still excellent. Go in daylight to enjoy the view.

L'Entrepots is a good choice if in Pezenas. Another place to consider and reasonable striking distance from Soubes is Ocre Rouge in Herepian.

Our most recent discovery in the area is de Lauzun in Gignac. A bit more urban than country but the chef has talent and sound training.

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Graham,

Thanks for the advice....

As I am travelling with one adventurous 10 year old but one not so adventurous 5 yr old, do you think there any issues with any of these places getting something simpler. I like the look of de Lauzun but as you say it is more urban in its concept and may not welcome the simpler tastes required by my youngest. The wine list looks fairly well marked up (I have old vintages of Mas de Daumas Gassac at lower prices in London restaurants for example!).

Also, do you have any ideas where my nearest wine shop would be - I assume from your website probably in Clermont L'Herault or Montpeyroux?

[tracyinfrance]

Hi Gavin, don't know if you are checking your posting whilst you are down here but thought I would post a reply in case you are!

Bar a Vin is very relaxed about kids so no worries there. There is also another very cool new place in Pezenas Gallery 5, tapas/salads: foie gras to die for! and intellegent wine list. It is just north of Place Gambetta heading towards the 'butte de chateau' Tucked away a bit but lovely!

Have a great holiday!

[tracyinfrance]

Tracy,

Thank you so much for your quick response...I shall investigate your suggestions.

I like the look of the Bar a Vins - do you think you would need to book for that? Would they be happy with 2 well behaved children?

BTW your hotel looks fabulous (at least I'm assumimg it's your hotel from the trip advisor write ups)  and as I have no connection I can with clear conscience print the link here:

http://www.hoteldevigniamont.com/

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Thanks for the kind words re our hotel and posting the link! Forgot to mention that Wednesdays & Fridays in August all the shops in the old part of Pezenas are open until midnight, including the restaurants!

For a more rustic meal, Le Vieux Coq in Place Gambetta has reopened with Margerette at the stove and cooking simple tasty dishes. The great thing is you sit in the Place and the kids can get up and play in the square whilst you are waiting for the meal!

Enjoy!