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Bernachon In Paris?


cabrales

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Serge Dansereau's "Food & Friends. A chef's journey through France & Italy" (1998, 2000) indicates that L'Etoile d'Or, 30 rue Fontaine 75009, tel 01 48 74 59 55, might carry Bernachon chocolates normally associated with the Lyons region:

"Denise [Acabo, the shopkeeper] disclosed the name of her favorte product -- Bernachon . . . . The Bernachon family . . . select their cocoa beans from particular growers and plantations around the world . . . . They know and nurture their growers as chefs nurture their own small suppliers. . . ."

Other chocolates at L'Etoile d'Or mentioned were (1) Bernard Dufoux's Conquistador (with caramel, pistachios, sugared orange, flamed raisins and roasted nuts), (2) Christina Bochard (Grenoble)'s mandarin confit dipped in chocolate with Grand Marnier, and (3) items from Andre Boyer (Sault-de-Vaucluse).

Have members visited L'Etoile d'Or, and what are members' favorite Bernachon chocolates? :blink:

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I wish I were in a position to offer thoughts on my favorite Bernachon chocolates. It would imply not only that I was in Lyon frequently, but that I had a budget to lavish on studying the Chocolates. (Studying here can be seen as a euphemism for "pigging out on.") One of the last three times I was in Lyon, I could not manage to get to the shop when it was open and purchased a small box of ready packaged bonbons from the salon du thé next door. The first time I was there, I had to leave the shop for a minute so I could collect my thoughts and returne to make a selection without stress. They were all quite wonderful as I recall, but it was sometime ago. By my third visit, my appreciation for chocolate had begun to be a bit more sophisticated and I thought it best to start at the beginning. I bought a box of the intense Palets d'Or--Bitter chocolate ganache with a couverture of dark bitter chocolate--the day before we returned to NY. I ate them slowly upon my return. Over the week or so, I found my palate changing. With each day, I found them sweeter and sweeter. For me that may be the definitive bonbon from Bernachon, although Steve Klc is in a better position to offer a definitive answer.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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Bux -- I will try a little of the Bernachon chocolates the next time I am in Paris, and report back (with little chocolate background knowledge, unfortunately). :sad: I think Bernachon might be one of Steve P's favorite chocolates.

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How was I unaware of Bernachon?! I am however still eating my way through chocolates from Herme, Peltier, and Lenotre. I passed on Maison du Chocolat and J.P. Hevin (nice new shop on La Motte-Picquet) this time around. Apart from L'Etoile d'Or, I now also regret not getting to Cluizel's shop on Rue St. Honore while I was nearby (sort of) at E. Dehillerin.

Apart from the Palets d'Or, what other chocolates are noteworthy in that line? Is there, I presume, a Bernachon shop only in Lyon?

Michael Laiskonis

Pastry Chef

New York

www.michael-laiskonis.com

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Michael -- I have not yet sampled any Bernachon chocolates, but they are supposed to be wonderful. I should have sampled some at the Salon Internationale du Chocolat at the Louvre last year, where Bernachon had a booth. From input I have received from other members, Bernachon is supposed to be excellent. Bernachon is indeed Lyon-based.

As you may know, La Maison du Chocolat has NY presence (Madison Ave., at least). :wink: However, J-P Hevin is a "must visit" at some point. I speak with no understanding of chocolate, however. :hmmm:

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specialities? apart from palet d'or also chocolate truffles and some cakes (le president is one; cant remember the rest). the straight 70% chocolate bar is also fab - best have had (along with the bonnat)

if you can find it track down the book "a passion of chocolate" co-aurthured by the bernachons and rose-levy beranbaum. probably the best chocolate book i've come across... cakes... pateisserie... chocolates the lot

amazon says its out of print. shame on them.

cheerio

j

More Cookbooks than Sense - my new Cookbook blog!
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Have members visited L'Etoile d'Or, and what are members' favorite Bernachon chocolates? :blink:

Etoile d'Or is always one of my first stops! I am salivating right now. Denise Acabo is a sketch, she looks like a cross between Heidi and a school-mistress. The range, quality and freshness of the chocolates are unassailably excellent. if you're a Bernachon fan, she carries one so bitter (and I quote) "it will make your face collapse".

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Mlpc - Bernachon is off the charts. Those Palet's d'Ors are unbelievable. But you have to go to Lyon to get them. They do ship all over the world though. But if you go to Lyon and it's in winter, make sure you go to Les Halles where they have these fat, juicy, saucisson that are studded with black truffles. Also arguably the best St. Marcelin in France at Renee Richard. Alll in all, quite a nice shopping jaunt.

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It's not easy to pass up a reference to the Halles in Lyon without a comment. :biggrin: It's the place to go if you really need an oyster fix in Lyon.

Robert Buxbaum

WorldTable

Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.

My mailbox is full. You may contact me via worldtable.com.

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Mlpc - Bernachon is off the charts. Those Palet's d'Ors are unbelievable. But you have to go to Lyon to get them.

Steve P -- I think the shop in Paris described in the first post of this thread carries certain Bernachon chocolates. :wink:

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