Wines with friends

[Florida Jim]

2001 Moreira, Douro Poeira:

Youthful and primary on the nose but closing down on the palate with more tannin than fruit. I didn’t expect this wine to close down and, maybe, it’s just this bottle; this was such a fruit forward and exuberant wine at release.

After 6 hours in the decanter, it is more complex, less primary and is much more enjoyable. But it is still a brooding and big boned wine; cellaring is starting to make sense to me.

Dignitaries from St. Barth’s come to visit:

Lunch:

With sliced meats, spreads, crackers and condiments:

2004 Ottaviano Lambruschi, Colli di Luni Costa Marina:

Made from 30 year old vines of 100% hand harvested vermentino that never sees wood, 13.5% alcohol from the Liguria region of Italy. It is complex on both the nose and palate with just picked green chilies, apples, peaches, fresh cut herbs and floral scents and flavors, very concentrated and focused, bright acidity, a satin texture and a very slightly bitter finish that lasts and lasts.

Madame approves, Monsieur isn’t sure.

Dinner:

Aperitif:

2003 Bava, Chardonnay Thou Bianc:

Stony, earthy, unoaked chardonnay from Piemonte; not my favorite as the earthiness seems to dominate but not bad. Madame and Monsieur aren’t sure.

With duck ragu on pasta:

2000 Dom. Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureses:

Open and generous but a bit too much new French oak for this taster. Still, very Chambolle and plump on the palate, as well as, ready to drink. Madame and Monsieur approve.

2000 Allemand, Cornas (un-sulphered):

Smoky, earthy, black fruit aromatics that are expansive and complex; youthful in the mouth with flavors that echo the nose, excellent balance and concentration; long finish and utterly sublime with the dish. Madame and Monsieur are delighted.

Lunch:

With sliced meats paté, cheeses, spreads and condiments:

2002 Huet, Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont:

Opened specifically to go with the paté (duck liver); smells of crème brulée ; primary and slight sweet in the mouth with good concentration and intensity; medium finish. Too young to drink now but good with the dish. Madame isn’t sure and Monsieur is pleased.

1998 Trimbach, Riesling Clos St. Hune:

Served too cold but as it warms, great depth and concentration with laser-like focus on both the nose and palate, intense, complex, powerful and special. Monsieur, who does not care for Alsatian rieslings, says it is better than expected, especially as it warms; OTOH, Madame begins singing, reciting poetry and disrobing. (Note to self; the true value of Clos St. Hune is grossly under-estimated.)

Dinner:

With spinach and white bean soup

2004 Martinsancho, Rueda:

Starts out all grapefruit on the nose but, as it warms, some mineral and herbal tones make an appearance; viscous and concentrated; long finish. Good with the dish and a freshness that would make for good accompaniment with most lighter fare. Madame approves, Monsieur says a little is all he wishes.

With grilled N.Y strip steaks and a potato/mushroom gratin:

1996 Chave, Hermitage:

A wine that evolves in the glass but is always beautifully balanced; starts with a bit of brett that seems to dissipate with airing; excellent complexity, smoothly textured and quite long; truly a delightful wine. Madame approves, Monsieur is not sure the wine is entirely sound but enjoys it, nonetheless.

1996 Giacosa, Barbaresco Asili Riserva:

Big and tannic with a bacon note on the nose, substantial concentration and lots of good nebbiolo flavor; obviously closed and just as obviously, a great wine. Madame and Monsieur approve.

1998 Allemand, Cornas Chaillot:

corked.

2002 d’Angerville, Volnay Taillepieds:

Closing up as this is a bit too candied and new world-ish at the moment; still, the structure speaks well for some cellar time. Madame and Monsieur agree this is not the moment for this wine.

1998 Rochioli, Pinot Noir East Block:

A frightful thing that, although it has pleasant aromatics (albeit, nothing grand), is attenuated, acidic, hollow and unpleasant in the mouth. Madame and Monsieur disapprove.

2000 A. et P. De Villaine, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise – La Digoine:

Finally, a pinot noir worth drinking; clean, pure, red fruit aromatics with hints of spice; bright flavors echo the nose in a lightweight delivery with medium length. Has greater depth than the weight would have one assume and drinks very well now. Madame and Monsieur approve.

Best, Jim

Edited November 27, 2005 by Florida Jim (log)