Côte d'Azur Riviera

[hollywood]

As for the infamous hamburger, I have to say that I'd be quite prepared to speak the truth about it if I thought it tasted bad, or was a bad idea, even if there were gold nuggets inside it. But it happens to taste terrific. And those who would object to it merely because it is called and mimics a hamburger, I would categorize in the same category as those who object to high-heel sneakers as a fashion accessory. Whimsy should not to be viewed through a serious lens.

I thought I heard it was the mirepoix that made it.

[robert brown]

The Gantie shows it on Rue Doite. I'll take another one for the club and report back. It has to be better than Chez Michel. Speaking of the Gantie, most of the entries have been translated into English in a seperate section in the back of the book. It's a very useful addition for people who know English better than French.

Steve, thanks so much for the Tetou lore. It was great. I will try to make a fresh visit this summer.

[Jonathan Day]

I will not be back in France until the 2nd week of August ... not the ideal time, I know, but school breaks and other commitments leave no choice. I plan to make as many enquiries as I can amongst fishmongers, locals, etc. as to places for good bouillabaisse that don't cost the moon. I cannot believe that Bacon and Maurin des Maures in Rayol-Canadel are the only places to find this dish in the Côte! The Tétou story was fascinating and I only wish the soup I had there had been better.

[Steve Plotnicki]

JD - Historically the famous bouillabaisse on the cote was at La Voile d'Or in St. Jean Cap Ferrat. I can't remember the name of the chef but he was famous for it. But for some reason I recall that Waverly Root speaks of that bouillabaisse in The Foods of France. Maybe I'm wrong. Can't vouch for the soup there today and the chef isn't there anymore either. But Nounou right next door to Tetou offers a BB, and La Bourride in Cros de Cagnes offers one as well I believe. Then there's La Bouillabaisse in St. Tropez. There are loads of them. Unfortunately most of them aren't very good.

Robert - The food always tastes better with a little bit with a bit of schmooze, a bit of gossip, a bit of, well, histoire .

[Jaymes]

BOUILLABAISSE - At Le Skipper in St. Jean Cap Ferrat (I think). BUT you must call a day ahead and order it.

Also fine....the fish soup and the marinated anchovies.

Seaside cafe... very simple, unpretentious. Wonderful atmosphere.

[ericabrown]

yes, Maurin des Maures does a good bb - but you must order in advacne and don't take chirac's word for it - the government's (not his) chateau is nearby and he'd go anywhere for a free lunch - or free anything.

bb originated as a way for fishermen to use up unsold fish at the end of the day - water was boiled fiercely with olive oil to make an emulsion and the whole fish dropped in - no crustacea of any kind and they'd never heard - or could afford saffron. I speak as someone who lives in the Var and is the author of Provence Gastronomique.

Like so many things in the world of French food the bb charter exists but is contrived as a marketing device. I think bb is vastly over-rated - having said that, try Chez Fonfon (nothing frou frou about it) in a tiny calanque a short taxi ride from Marseille's old port.

But if more people knew about bourride there would be fewer arguments about bb - and many more satisfied diners.

Bon appétit, Erica Brown

[Steve Plotnicki]

Erica - Thanks for the input. But where the hell does one get a good Bourride? They used to have a fairly good one at L'Ane Rouge in Nice but the quality dropped years ago. I've never seen a good one anywhere else.

And what is Provence Gastronomique?

[Bux]

Welcome to eGullet. I hope we'll have more contributions from you on the food of France and especially the Var.

[Jonathan Day]

Continuing the themes of "dining in extremis" and "that old time religion" (click here for a recent entry on Les Arcades) I wanted to outline enjoyable meals at three more restaurants on the Côte d'Azur.

La Merenda is a tiny place in old Nice, where Dominique Le Stanc went after leaving Le Chantecler at the Hotel Negresco. He continued its previous owners' traditions of not accepting cheques or credit cards, and having no telephone. Because the place seems to be full at every meal, you have to walk in earlier (or a day before) and reserve. The cheesy tourist story, told in numerous guides, is that, after braving the difficulties getting a reservation, you dine at this humble place, and what a wonderful meal it turns out to be. Hence I have to admit that I was predisposed to dislike this place, both given the back story and that Robert had been disappointed there a few years ago.

I was wrong. The food at La Merenda was delicious, and the service was a bit brusque but satisfying. I secured a lunch reservation by walking in at 11.15 am, while the staff were dining. They scribbled my name in their book and went back to their meal.

At La Merenda you sit on small but comfortably padded stools at tiny tables; you often have to stand to let your neighbours leave their tables or sit down again. The short menu comes to your table on a blackboard, and then the waiter comes over and says, "So tell me." And he expects you to tell him what you want, quickly.

The menu is short, but I hesitated between sardines farcies and "tarte de Menton" as a starter. What kind of tart was that, I wondered. A lemon tart for a starter? "I think it's made with blettes (Swiss chard)" said an elderly lady at the next table. I liked chard, so I ordered that and my wife ordered a dish of tagliatelle with pistou (pesto). For mains we ordered queue de boeuf (oxtail) and a daube. Soon after, the blackboard returned with the queue de boeuf struck off, and I changed my order to a dish of tripes à la Niçoise. While we waited, a man from the neighbouring olive oil shop brought a little degustation to our table: cubes of bread with two flavours of his oil, and a tiny dish of mushrooms preserved in oil. He reminded us that he would be at his shop after 2 pm if we needed any oil. We would be tasting his product in the restaurant's dishes, he told us.

Both the tarte de Menton and the pasta were surprising. The tart had no Swiss chard, only onions; it was something like a pissaladière, the onion-and-anchovy tart common to the region, but on a bread rather than a pastry crust, and with no anchovies but beautiful sweet onions, charred to a crisp on the top and soft below. The crust was crisp and tasty, the onion flavours deep and rich, and the whole effect delicious. Pissaladière is almost a staple in our house, because the children like it, and we have tried it from numerous charcutiers, bakeries and pizza houses. But this was pissaladière transformed and transcended.

My wife gasped as she took her first taste of the pasta, because the flavours were so intense. Again, we grow basil every year, make a lot of pistou, and have enjoyed this dish in many places. But this had a depth of flavour that neither of us had expected. The spinach noodles were good, their texture just right.

The tripes à la Niçoise came with strips of crisp-fried panisses, the chick-pea preparation that appears as socca in Nice and farinata across the border in Italy. The tripe itself was superb, better than the one I had last year at La Cave in Cannes, which itself was very good. The texture of the tripe strips was just perfect: neither too soft nor too firm, and it had not only the treble notes of lemon, but also a deeper underlying bass bespeaking its long cooking and the quality of the stock that had gone into it. The panisses provided both a pleasant crunch and a slightly bitter contrast to the lemony tripes. The intensity of flavour continued with a lemon tart, which had another almost perfect crust.

Wine is served by the "drink as much as you want" method; they eyeball what's left in the bottle and charge you for what you've consumed. About half the customers looked to be regulars, the rest were first-time visitors like us. This will not be our last visit.

La Merenda

4, rue Terrasse, just off the old flower market.

No telephone, payment in cash only.

Closed 8-14 April, 27 July to 19 August, 1 to 10 December, 23 February to 2 March, and all day Saturday and Sunday. Lunch and dinner served. The waiter indicated that the last lunch tables tend to be booked by 11:45, and lunch generally begins at noon -- we started at 12:15 and missed one dish as a result. It's easy enough to book mid-morning, then spend the rest of the morning wandering through the old town.

* * *

The Bistrot de Mougins is in the old village; unlike most of the restaurants in the village, this one is below stairs, in what was once either a stable or a wine cellar, probably the former. There is an arched roof, and the tables are pleasant and comfortable. Once again, the cookery here is simple but flavourful. We have had superb brandade de morue, delicious snails, pieds et paquets, daubes and the like. The wine selections here are a bit more ambitious than at La Merenda, but the Bistrot completely lacks the pretensions of many of the above-ground spots in the village which seem, sadly, to be aping Vergé in some way -- hardly a standard to aspire to these days, but he does have those two stars. The Bistrot, in contrast, just goes on serving the same good dishes, with consistent quality.

Le Bistrot de Mougins,

in the old village not far from the fountain

Tel. (33) 4 93 75 78 34

Closed 1-28 December, Saturday at lunch and all day Wednesday.

* * *

Finally, following recommendations by trustworthy eGullet friends, we have made regular visits to La Cave in Cannes -- click here for a note from last year.

Unfortunately, our most recent dinner there was a disappointment. The assiette Provençale, a sampling of all of the restaurant's starters, was good, but our ris de veau (sweetbreads) were not well prepared and unevenly cooked, and the sauce was thick and gummy. The kitchen extends into the dining area, and I noticed dish after dish being tossed into the microwave oven for reheating, and the cook spooning sauce base into pots on the stove. I am sure both practices are common even in finer restaurants, and would have ignored them had the product been satisfying, but this was not. I hope the owners of La Cave regain their emphasis on fresh products and simple, high quality cooking. The road to perdition is smooth and gentle, but it is not easy to return once you have taken a few steps down it.

La Cave

9 boulevard de la République

Cannes

tel. (33) 4 93 99 79 87

[Bux]

Nice to hear of your success with La Merenda.The last time I was in Nice, Le Stanc was still at Le Chanteclair in the Negresco. At the time they offered a $40-50 prix fixe lunch. I believe the higher price included wine. It was too big a bargain to resist and excellent. As I recall the wines were Macon Villages and a Rhone appellation, and not shoddy examples either. Refills were quick in coming and I had to stop them from refilling my glass when dessert arrived. I was saddened to read Robert's report and happy to read yours. I'm always torn between the great old traditional food of France and the haute cuisine. I've found we've drifted more to haute cuisine as they years have passed because on one level it's more intellecutually interesting, but also because the cuisine grandmere of tripes and daubes has become harder to find done well. Michelin seems to be favoring creative chefs for the one star rating and most one star creative restaurants just don't hold a candle to the two and three star places nor do they provide a balance to the multistarred places. Of course there are exceptions. L'Astrance in Paris is a one star well worth a place on one's dining card.

[Jonathan Day]

The great advantage of the multi-starred restaurants is that they are easy to find, especially if you have very limited time. For every wonderful little restaurant there are dozens of shoddy, cynically run places that are primarily interested in fleecing tourists.

And of course, the small places are subject to the pressures of economic recession, shifts in key personnel, and the like, so today's gems can be tomorrow's disasters. A local (for me) example of this is Le Feu Follet, in Mougins, which was once one of the most popular gastronomic resturants in the area -- it was a favourite of Simone Beck's, for example -- but which has now slipped in quality and service to a point where it isn't worth visiting. So there are still guides in print (and on the web) praising Feu Follet to the skies, even though this data is completely outmoded.

The large and well known places change too -- look at the downfall of Vergé's Moulin de Mougins -- but at least problems here tend to get caught quickly by the serious guides.

[Matthew Grant]

I recently returned from a week in Mougins and had some good meals, notably at La Terrasse (sp.?). Be warned with the prices though, I had Langoustines from the Gastronomic menu as a starter and was more than a little shocked to find them costing 42Euros when I go tthe bill, they were superb but there was only 4 of them! The Charolais beef was good but I think Charolais is a little overrated, beef better than this can be found in England as well.

I forget the names of all the restaurants, there is a place selling Raviolis (Jonathan will be able to enlighten us) where I had a beautiful veal chop but the highlight was my girlfriends Raviolis which were advertised as being Morel but by our reckoning came with Morel, some truffle and a Foie Gras cream sauce as well - over indulgent but very good. For more basic meals we found Le Petit Fouet and Restaurant Des Artes to be very good and reasonably priced. The owners of both were very friendly.

We also tried Le Mas Candille but unfortunately this restaurant fell short on several levels, service was less than friendly from the Maitre D' alsthough a younger waiter who had only started the day before answered our questions without any problems. I also didn't like the dining room, at these prices I expeted something more than wicker furniture, the room would be much nicer during the summer when the doors could be opened onto the terrace. My starter of Pigeon with Spring vegetables was an excellent start, however, a main of Chicken with truffles and a truffle Sabayon for two people was very disappointing and cost 80 Euros. It was cooked in a pigs bladder and carved (poorly) at the table. The blunt knife tore the breast making it unattractive and the vegetables were left simmering in the sauce while the Maitre D' was carving and this made them overcooked. The chicken had good flavour but was also a little dry. The truffle sabayon was a bad match, it really was like Sabayon, so much so that I could almost detect a sweetness to it, far too thick and custard like for the dish. Dessert was far more of a success, Passion fruit Souffle was beautiful and served with a Passion fruit cream on the side. Other desserts coming from the kitchen looked wonderful.

[Bux]

I was about to say that I doubted the truffle sabayon had any sweetness in it, but then I remembered one of the dishes from our early trips to France, In Arbois, in the Jura, I had a chicken or capon with sauce of vin jaune and morilles that indeed had a sweetness from the wine. It was truly superb. If memory serves, it was only a one star restaurant. Those were the days when there were riches to be found at all levels in the provinces. "The days" were the late sixties and they sealed the fate of my interest in French cooking even through the years we couldn't afford to travel. Do you know what wine they used in the sabayon?

[Jonathan Day]

Matthew, the ravioli place you are referring to is La Table D'Edmond. Edmond is a German chef who has tried to "brand" his take on ravioli by christening them "raviellis". We have had a few good meals there, but in general my take on Edmond's place is that it takes itself just a bit too seriously. In season there are sometimes good truffle menus at Le Rendez-Vous de Mougins and Brasserie de la Mediteranee, steps away from Edmond.

Agree with you about the Petit Fouet and Resto des Arts -- both are friendly and pleasant, and I believe the latter is unusually flexible about the times for lunch service -- we once walked in at 2:10 pm, half expecting to get the usual cold shoulder and "c'est terminée" and instead enjoyed a good lunch.

Le Mas Candille is an example of a place that is aiming above what it is really capable of doing. Sometimes the food there is very good, and I have had some superb fish dishes there. But in general the cuisine and execution at the Mas are a bit uneven, mostly because they are aiming so high. When I was there last summer, they were clearly chasing their first star. I don't remember any problems with the setting: in fact, coming there in winter, we enjoyed the reception area around a fireplace, where you could sip an aperitif and ponder the menu before going to your table. Chibois does the same thing, as of course do many other restaurants.

The Mas also has a lovely terrace where you can watch the sun go down over the hills as you dine, in summer.

[Matthew Grant]

I was about to say that I doubted the truffle sabayon had any sweetness in it, but then I remembered one of the dishes from our early trips to France, In Arbois, in the Jura, I had a chicken or capon with sauce of vin jaune and morilles that indeed had a sweetness from the wine.

Bux, I thought I was imagining the sweetness due to its colouring (very yellow) and general texture but now you've got me wondering whether it could have come from a sweet wine.

Jonathan, both Resto Des Artes and Le Petit Fouet seemed very flexible on their times, LPF served people well past 14:30 without complaint. I can see that Le Mas Candille is trying but maybe it was trying too hard. I definitely wouldn't rule out another visit and I do think it would be lovely when the sun waa going down a little later, unfortunately it was dark when we arrived and the dining room seemed quite cramped without the terrace in operation. As previously mentioned starters and Desserts were superb. Have the desserts always been so pretty?

[Bux]

Bux, I thought I was imagining the sweetness due to its colouring (very yellow) and general texture  but now you've got me wondering whether it could have come from a sweet wine.

It's anyone's guess of course. Speculation can be absurd and lead us off into cloudy areas, but sometimes it's a worth abstract pursuit. I have usually associated deeply colored egg yolks with the tastiest eggs from small producers. There's no doubt in my mind that the color may have been due to the color of the egg yolks. It's not uncommon to use sweet wines in savory courses. Port may be the most frequent example. Sweet white wines may be less commonly used, but there's my example of vin jaune and a "dry" champagne is hardly dry. On the other hand, it may well have been your imagination or the result of the context in which the dish was served.

[Matthew Grant]

I'm pretty sure it was my imagination - it just looked like a Custard (which of course a Sabayon is) and was fae too thick and cloying for the dish. It sounded such a great idea. but looked like it needed a swiss roll underneath it instead of Landes Chicken

[Bux]

I'm pretty sure it was my imagination - it just looked like a Custard (which of course a Sabayon is) and was fae too thick and cloying for the dish. It sounded such a great idea. but looked like it needed a swiss roll underneath it instead of  Landes Chicken

It may be a matter of taste and expectation. I've certainly enjoyed savory set custards that are no more than vegetable flavored sugarless flans served with all sort of meats and poultry. I know I've had savory sabayons but don't remember having it with other than fish. I posted a link to Gagnaire's Corolle de saint Jacques et saumon d'Ecosse, suc de clémentine, sabayon au champagne in this thread which discussed savory sabayons.

[Jaymes]

How about Le Skipper? Anyone been there?

[menton1]

L'Univers/Christian Plumail in Nice just got hightly touted in a French newsletter. Any comments on this restaurant?

P.S. Want to stay outside of Nice, in Villefranche. Anybody ever stay at the Versailles? Seems to be the best in a town of few hotels.

[robert brown]

Menton, I would consider the Welcome Hotel. We stayed there for six weeks when the workers were renovating our house. It is a very agreeble place overlooking the port, the harbor and Cap-Ferrat and steps away from the old part of town. The Welcome is soundproof, which is a nice plus given that it is in a lively area of restaurants and cafes. The rooms are not large, but tastefully decorated and the desk people are attentive and friendly. The municipal parking area is right across the street as is the adorable chapel painted and decorated by Jean Cocteau. The Versailles is right on the Basse Corniche and looks rather charmless, thoough I have never stayed there. Everone we have sent to the Welcome has been very happy staying there.

[hollywood]

The municipal parking area is right across the street as is the adoreable chapel painted and decorated by Jean Cocteau.

You're right about the chapel. I'd forgotten about it. It is charming. Somewhere not too far away is another chapel done by Matisse. Both are worth visiting.

[Jaymes]

It is a very agreeble place overlooking the port, the harbor and Cap-Ferrat and steps away from the old part of town.

Speaking of Cap-Ferrat -

I had a very lovely dinner at a restaurant there - Le Skipper - and I'm wondering if any of the rest of you have ever heard of that most delightful, inexpensive, unpretentious little cafe by the sea?

Edited May 9, 2003 by Jaymes (log)

[robert brown]

Jaymes, I have eaten at several of the cafes along the port of St. Jean. Le Skipper is about the best. Although the food isn't as good, try the restaurant on the beach known as La Plage Passable. It's the typical stuff; grilled fish, mozarella and tomatoes, pastas, pizzas, Salade Nicoise,etc. but to watch the dusk fall across the "Rade de Villefranche" is delightful.

[winesceptre]

Matthew, the ravioli place you are referring to is La Table D'Edmond. Edmond is a German chef who has tried to "brand" his take on ravioli by christening them "raviellis". We have had a few good meals there, but in general my take on Edmond's place is that it takes itself just a bit too seriously. In season there are sometimes good truffle menus at Le Rendez-Vous de Mougins and Brasserie de la Mediteranee, steps away from Edmond.

Agree with you about the Petit Fouet and Resto des Arts -- both are friendly and pleasant, and I believe the latter is unusually flexible about the times for lunch service -- we once walked in at 2:10 pm, half expecting to get the usual cold shoulder and "c'est terminée" and instead enjoyed a good lunch. 

Le Mas Candille is an example of a place that is aiming above what it is really capable of doing. Sometimes the food there is very good, and I have had some superb fish dishes there. But in general the cuisine and execution at the Mas are a bit uneven, mostly because they are aiming so high. When I was there last summer, they were clearly chasing their first star. I don't remember any problems with the setting: in fact, coming there in winter, we enjoyed the reception area around a fireplace, where you could sip an aperitif and ponder the menu before going to your table. Chibois does the same thing, as of course do many other restaurants.

The Mas also has a lovely terrace where you can watch the sun go down over the hills as you dine, in summer.

to give you the latest situation from my point of you, the Place you have mentioned : a la Table d'Edmond in Mougins, Edmond has not tried to brand the Name "Raviellis" in fact it is hes Brand Name, anyway unimportant, because i never had a better Pasta like his .

Edmond is for me for the Moment the best Restaurant in Mougins, even in this area - he is not there every night, but this Place is always a highlight.

Dr. Lothar Hardt