Three of interest

[Florida Jim]

2004 Dom. Jean Vullien et Fils, Roussette de Savoie Cepage Altesse:

This 12.5% alcohol wine is made from the roussette grape (a/k/a altesse) in the foothills of the Alps. The aromatic nose is of cooked pears, white grape juice and rushing stream water; it’s viscous and fruit sweet on the palate with flavors that follow the nose with a clean, bright delivery, added peppery/spice notes and nice complexity; a medium length, complex finish follows. This is balanced, mouthwatering, delicious and was a point accompanying pasta with caramelized onions and pine nuts. Altesse is becoming one of my favorite white wine grapes. Thanks Chuck.

1994 Dom. Prieure Roch, Vosne-Romanee Les Hautes Maizieres:

12.5% alcohol (when’s the last time you saw that in a pinot noir?); Vosne spice on the nose (black pepper turning toward cinnamon) with some dark fruit and a touch of bottle bouquet; the same on the palate where the textures are full and approaching rich, the fruit is lively and has some depth, and, that spice is evident – but there isn’t much development here for an eleven year old wine; long, slightly grippy finish. This is texturally attractive but I expected more complexity; yet, it’s balanced, fruit-filled and, best of all, so clearly of its place as to be unmistakable. A fine example of a village Vosne, no matter the exigencies of the vintage. Thanks John.

1995 Biale, Petite Sirah Old Vineyards (magnum):

(16.1% alcohol!) Slight alcohol on the nose but also powerful dark fruit and spice scents coupled with some lavender and red fruit high tones and just a hint of prune juice; round, chewy and full bodied in the mouth with good grip, concentration, old vine sap and intensity (here the alcohol only shows as viscosity); long, moderately tannic finish that shows more alcohol the longer it goes. I should say that this wine does not come across as grossly over-ripe or as having port or mixed-drink type alcohol. Fortunately, the fruit is so big and intense that it all but obscures it. And the longer the bottle is open, the less alcohol is noticed. A very substantial wine still showing very young.

Best, Jim