Wines with friends

[Florida Jim]

1999 Cristom, Pinot Noir Marjorie Vnyd.:

Opened over the course of two hours but still probably needs three years in the cellar; slight dill/green olive on the nose along with powerful black raspberry and smoky plum fruit; substantial in the mouth without sharp edges but structured and integrated (the flavor profile also changes over time); medium long finish without astringency. The density and concentration of the fruit saves this from being over-oaked. Of its place with good balance but the amount of wood used makes me worry about vintages less concentrated and ripe.

2002 Cazin, Cour-Cheverny Cuvee Renaissance:

Demi-sec level RS to this taster but beautifully balanced with a laser-like acidity and dense, deep fruit with hints of balsam, sassafras and mineral; shows complexity even now; meaty, and an endless finish. Certainly, this will benefit from cellar time but it is terrific now.

2003 Bodegas Emeterio Fernandez, La Legua:

Mostly tempranillo with a little grenacha and cabernet sauvignon; it is darkly aromatic with damp earth scents to accent solid and ripe red fruit; the same on the palate where there is balance and some complexity; medium length finish. Maybe a bit darker than most tempranillo but certainly bears that grape’s signature. Drinking well now and for the short term, Eric Solomon imports and about $8.

2003 Inama, Soave:

Clean and lightly fruity on the nose; lightweight, balanced and almost thin on the palate; medium finish. At 12.5% alcohol, it showed no signs of the vintage’s heat but it is not as flavorful as Pieropan’s or the following wine.

2003 Anselmi, San Vincenzo:

Much fuller on the nose and palate than the Inama wine with a nice mouth-feel and better length. Contains some chardonnay but maintains its garganega character despite it.

1999 Copain, Pinot Noir Dennison Vnyd.:

Still not fully open but this crackles with flavor, smells of ripe fruit and stone, leaves a dry, crisp impression without any astringency and has good complexity. It is of its place (the Anderson Valley), very well-made and as good as CA pinot gets.

(Aside: I have followed Copain’s wines awhile and, although there are times when they have missed the mark, the times they get it right are downright inspirational. This is the kind of wine that California can make, it just rarely does. I do hope that Wells and the folks at Copain continue to do this kind of work and are not seduced by the ‘standard in the industry’ style.)

2002 Patricia Green, Pinot Noir Hirsch Vnyd.:

By comparison to the Copain this is softer, more ponderous and has a slight hollowness at mid-palate. Pleasant, but not even half the wine the Copain is.

2003 Foillard, Morgon Cote du Py:

Jolly wine with lots of ripe, juicy fruit, substantial weight and a broad, round (but not flabby) delivery. Fun to drink and smell with a terrific texture.

Best, Jim