Café Sabarsky

[jeff29992001]

a post from another forum on french bakeries in nyc. an excerpt :

"cafe sabarsky is austrian and with pastries such as Guglhupf and Apfelstrudel on the pastry menu, the quality is not going to compare to a top french pastry. their austrian pastries lack presentation and the balance of flavors and textures you'll get in french pastries."

at the end of the post he discloses taht he will be opening a french bakery in the fall with some french baker who "won the world competition for a creative cake design a few years ago."

whatever, is he full of it regarding cafe sabarsky?

[Pan]

Jeff, why don't you provide a link so we know who you're talking about? Maybe I'm being oversensitive, but this way, it feels like gossip to me. Besides, some of us might want to know about the upcoming "French bakery."

I can't respond to your main question, though.

Edited July 25, 2004 by Pan (log)

[emsny]

The person quoted in that post has obviously (and perhaps chauvinistically) confused quality with style. My admittedly limited experience with Sabarsky's cakes and pastries has been excellent. In fact, if the general quality of French pastry in New York were as high as the quality of Sabarsky's Viennese pastry, we'd be in very good shape. Does this individual reveal anything about his planned bakery? Perhaps the quality will be as high as his opinion of French pastry.

[jeff29992001]

the guy didn't provide any details except to say he was "planning on opening"... no name, no other info. .... i took it with a grain of salt.

[jeff29992001]

the thread is located here for reference.

Edited July 25, 2004 by jeff29992001 (log)

[emsny]

Well, I'll be interested to see whether this guy's prize-winning partner is able to go beyond the visual appeal of typical competition pastry work and actually deliver some flavor. I can't help thinking of the recently-closed Mondrian on Third Avenue, where the stuff looked stunning and was brilliantly executed but was flat-tasting and sometimes ill-conceived. I sometimes wish some of the Paris-based patissiers, besides Fauchon, would open branches in New York, as many have in Toyko (Pierre Herme and Dalloyau for instance). I ALWAYS wish that weren't necessary, and that local talent could fill the bill. At least we've got Payard, who by now must count as a local boy.

Does anyone know whether Keller's Bouchon Bakery is going to sell pastry, or just bread?

[Suzanne F]

I almost took a job at Sabarsky; wish I had. Anyway, at the time I interviewed there, shortly after it opened, the cakes were being made at Wallse and carried uptown. The pastry chef was Swiss. And there was a LOT more than strudel and gugelhopf, some very elaborate (and delicious) cakes, all with simple presentation; who needs more than a piece of cake and a blob of schlag, anyway?

[TrishCT]

On Saturday, I had a delightful lunch with my hubby at Cafe Sabarsky, overlooking the Gates across the street. Excellent beef goulash and spaetzle, delicious sachertorte and strudel. Also, killer hot chocolate served in a bowl, with a side cup of whipped cream. Even though the place was incredibly busy, service was attentive. Perfect place to warm up from a long walk in the park.

On the way out, I picked up some brochures and literature, and one was a card for Wallse restaurant. Just wondering if the two are related and is Wallse good?

Edit--I type too fast sometimes. I misspelled Sabarsky in my topic title. Mods if you see this please correct, thank you.

Edited February 27, 2005 by TrishCT (log)

[ludja]

I don't know if he is still involved, but Wallse's chef, Kurt Gutenbrunner designed the menu at Cafe Sabarsky.

Here's a good thread reviewing Wallse: click.

I want to go there sometime as well Bouley's Danube to compare their interpretations of 'high end' Austrian cuisine.

A month ago I was at Cafe Sabarsky and had the most wonderful chestnut torte. There was sponge cake, meringue, chestnut puree, whipped cream and what seemed to be an almond frangipane layer. It was heavenly--(stored in the refrigerated case next to the counter).

Nice to know about the hot chocolate too as I usually order coffee there, "eine kleine Braune".

[TrishCT]

Thanks for the link, Ludja. It appears that Wallse provides some of the food for Cafe Sabarsky. Good stuff.

Edited February 28, 2005 by TrishCT (log)

[zeitoun]

To my knowledge, all of the food at Cafe Sabarsky is from Chef Gutenbrunner and his Wallse pastry chef. The Sabarsky chef de cuisine was sent by Gutenbrunner from Wallse after he worked several years as sous chef in the Wallse kitchen.

Just note that Kurt Gutenbrunner is currently working on a project involving him as the opening chef of a small boutique hotel restaurant in the east village. Not sure where though and if it has actually opened...

[Della]

I had a friend suggest eating here when I was in NYC last week. I spent a day at the Met and wanted something light, casual yet good near the museum. Well, this place was great. Good atmosphere and service. The food was good, the price was reasonable and it was a great experience all around. It ended up being one of my mom's favorite lunch spots. We did have to wait for about 15 minutes before being seated but the hostess was pleasant and it wasn't a big deal. They don't take reservations as it is a cafe in the new Neue Galerie's museum. The food is Viennese-style.

We shared the crab, avocado and tarragon salad along with a salad of mixed greens and duck that had some wild mushrooms, cucumber and tomato.

Then we shared the open-faced liverwurt and onion confit sandwich.

I will definately go back next time I am in NYC

[TrishCT]

It is a lovely spot. Desserts such as the apple strudel, sachertorte and Black Forest Cake are wonderful as well.

[David McDuff]

If you've enjoyed Cafe Sabarsky and would like to make the shift to dinner and step it up a notch, be sure to check out Wallse in the far West Village. Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner owns both spots and shows off some very fine Austrian cuisine, focusing on regional and seasonal classics, market driven ingredients and a light, pristine touch in the kitchen. The wine list is all Austrian and includes some real gems; be sure to ask Aldo Sohm, their sommelier, for guidance.

[TarteTatin]

We went to Cafe Sabarsky on Saturday about 5:30, after going to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

(started at the Bronx Zoo, had lunch on Arthur Ave.-- attended a few short films at a festival in Manhattan... before the museum... After, had Dosa at an Indian at 27 and Park, and then went to a party in the Village; long day!)

Anyway, four of us had desserts and a bottle of wine. There was a pianist and it was just lovely.

I had apple strudel, others had linzer torte, rehrucken (choc, orange confiture, marzipan), and schwarzwalder kirschtorte- a chocolate and cherry cake. Mine and the chocolate were the winners! The pastry on mine was so light and buttery!

We had a bottle of riesling.

Nice afternoon "tea".