Darryll Roberts at Williamsburg's The Pod

[robert brown]

Sometimes, but not very often, an aspect equal to the food, service or ambiance of a restaurant, is what is called in the journalism business a "human interest story”. This particular one is taking place at a restaurant named “The Pod” in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn, which I never heard of, nor could find in the Zagat Guide even though the restaurant is three-years old.

How I became aware of The Pod began with an e-mail from eGullet poster Lizziee, inviting me and my wife to meet her son David and to be his guest at the restaurant. She also wanted us to enjoy a tasting-menu dinner prepared by the restaurant’s chef, who is a friend of David, named Darrell Roberts. The primary purpose of the excursion was that David was going to expose us to the talent of an early-stage “sleeper” chef with a remarkable gift and limitless potential. On the taxi ride to Williamsburg, David provided us with some basic information about young Darrell: He is 22 years old; Afro-American; born and raised in Williamsburg in very humble surroundings in a family little concerned with food; became interested in cooking in high school; took some courses at The New York Restaurant School; and worked for two years at the Grand Havana Room at 666 Fifth Ave.. He has been at The Pod for seven months, but the restaurant’s owners are not highly “gourmand” and are having Darrell cook a la carte dishes that have broad-based appeal. This is why David, scion of inveterate West Coast foodies and, at a young age himself already having important sommelier jobs on his resume (Le Cirque, Bouley and Aquavit), asked Darrell to make us a special tasting menu.

In a space somewhere between very large and cavernous in what seems to have been a hundred years ago a light manufacturing enterprise resides The Pod. Its design can well be described as half-done Eero Saarinen Contemporary. In the front part is a bar and café with large white panels hung on the walls-the one over the bar was used as big-screen television for sporting events. The entire length of the opposite brick wall had one continuous, narrow photographic mural of a mobile home park. The elevated dining room in the rear portion was sheathed in one molded lime green piece of plaster covering two walls and the ceiling (thus the name “The Pod”). Simple wood tables and molded plastic chairs were well-spaced and, the week-day night we were there, all but empty. Apparently, however, The Pod does well on weekends.

Shortly after we sat down, Chef Darryll came out from the kitchen to meet the three of us. Slight of build, articulate and wearing his chef’s vest and a colorful knitted Tam O’Shanter, he presented himself in a quiet, but assured manner. (He told us that he intends one day to be a three-star Michelin chef.) He returned to the kitchen and soon after, the prelude to his eight small courses appeared: an “amuse-bouche” of a mussel in its shell with small bits of yellow tomato, a touch of lemongrass, and a splash of bean sprouts served in a ceramic spoon that also contains a ginger broth with a hint of mint. He followed this with a tuna tartare on mesclun with a green tea teriyaki sauce and coconut wasabi aioli.

The “post-amuse” second course was served in a ceramic pot containing sautéed calamari and seaweed noodles. Next came a palate cleanser of refreshing and intense passion fruit sorbet. Seafood continued with mahi-mahi ceviche with shredded arugula and a coriander orange reduction. Darrell then switched gears to serve a tomato and fennel risotto flavored with thyme. A braised chicken leg with pieces of crab apple and small pieces of white asparagus came next, and to conclude the savories as the seventh course, seared scallops on top of an oxtail ragout. Dessert was a chocolate Angel Food cake with swirls and chocolate and vanilla sauce.

To our unanimous agreement, a majority of our dishes were highly successful. David and my wife were especially taken with the ceviche of mahi-mahi while I felt that the unlikely combination of shrimp and oxtail worked perfectly to make that dish my favorite. A close second for all of us was the tomato-fennel-thyme risotto. My wife and I told Darrell that it was much superior to the lemon risotto we had at Lespinasse 10 days before. Other than an occasional misstep with unbalanced flavorings and possible inexperience in the dessert department, Darrell’s meal showed an understanding of flavors and a command of culinary skills that betrayed his youth, the nature of his upbringing, and lack of travel to distant, well-known restaurants. When he reappeared at the end of the meal, I asked him some questions about how he came to be a chef. He replied that in high school, where he also played the clarinet and ran on the track team, he nonetheless became attracted to cooking programs on television (such as “The Galloping Gourmet”) and would spend hours at a Barnes & Noble sitting down to study cookbooks and reading food magazines.

The best way to dine at The Pod is to call Darryl at the restaurant and make arrangements to have him prepare a tasting menu. Depending on the ingredients and dishes you decide upon, the cost without beverages runs between $50-$65 per person. You should also bring your own wine, as the list there is rather basic. You will then have the opportunity to catch someone who is soon to be a rising star (with an enthralling story besides) in the New York culinary world, and to have unusually good food from a gifted young man whose background belies his profession.

The Pod

141 North 7th St. (Between Bedford and Berry Streets)

718-302-3754

[Liza]

Thank you so much for this post - this is truly what makes Egullet invaluable to members, and the greater community at large!

[Pan]

Darrell’s meal showed an understanding of flavors and a command of culinary skills that betrayed his youth, the nature of his upbringing, and lack of travel to distant, well-known restaurants

This is terrific writing! I do think you mean "belied" rather than "betrayed," however.

I used to watch the Galloping Gourmet when I was in 1st grade in 1970-71! I didn't remember that it was still on TV as recently as 15 years ago or so, but that's probably because I was seldom watching TV at lunchtime during that period of my life.

[Liza]

Food Network used to air GG paired with vintage Julia around 11:30 AM. I always wanted them to do a GG/Julia block around 1AM - perfect 'happy' tv for those 'happy' viewers.

[Liza]

http://www.thepodny.com/

[bpearis]

i live in the wb and i've avoided this place like the plague -- it looks so not-too-distant-future, it seems like it was created by some hip marketing company before they thought about the menu. when i pass by it always seems like people are there to drink, not to eat (it's never very crowded).

but this makes me interested. perhaps i'll give it (or this special menu, at least) a chance.

[Bux]

bpearis, it appears the owners want exactly what it appears to you to be, but they apparently have chef who is capable of better.

Robert Brown wrote

He has been at The Pod for seven months, but the restaurant’s owners are not highly “gourmand” and are having Darrell cook a la carte dishes that have broad-based appeal.

I'd advise making yourself known to the chef, one way or another. Robert suggested calling ahead.

[Liza]

I had the pleasure of meeting Chef Darrell yesterday and he was indeed charming and quietly self-assured. We talked about the menu, and why he made certain choices about it, and he again expressed his enthusiasm for tasting menus. He said that if you give him 24 hours notice (to shop and prepare), he's more than happy to prepare tasting menus. This guy used to cook banquets, parties..he can handle it.

He's going to go far.

[Jinmyo]

Horrid web site. Liza. Thanks so much.  

[Liza]

Maybe we're out of the demographic, Jinmyo.

[Jinmyo]

Hm. You mean... some... people... think differently then we do?

Liza, you have blown my mind!

[Liza]

I know, I know...I've fallen and I can't get up.

[lizziee]

Just wondering ---- Has anyone tried the Pod? Is it as good as Robert said?

[Liza]

I did a film shoot there on Tuesday but if was Darryl's day off...