Jump to content

  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

[CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 1)

chefseanbrock
 Share

Recommended Posts

yellow truffle

yellow truffle

Posted
Posted

NOTES

The starter course, PEAR, is a ball of waxy plastic curry flavored shell, with a liquid pear center, floating on celery liquid. Subtle flavors and strong presentation, but not as heavy as it looks or sounds. Pommeau is served with this dish. The liquor is a complementary starter and hints at the weight of the dishes to come.

There are two mushroom dishes to be had, MAITAKE and MATSUTAKE. This first dish is light and airy, but stands strong in palate. The second mushroom dish is quite interesting. It is served in a glass mini dutch oven. Cream is poured into the bowl and you mix it up before indulging in the flavors. It's a little strange, in that, it has the consistency of bread pudding, and one can almost pass it off as such, except for the slight mushroom flavor.

The MANGO dish pushes heavily its Asian ingredients. It starts with the sesame oil, in taste and aroma (strong stuff), and finishes off with a hint of a tropical fruit flavor. Reading the name/description of dish, one would have a different expectation of the end product, at least I did.

DOVER SOLE's mosaic of mostly traditional flavors is all in powder form (lemon, banana, parsley, capers). The fish was a little over done. Perhaps, the chef intended to create the solids (banana, fish and citrus cauliflower) as a weighty items and generate a contrast in the lightness of the granules.

That evening, three dishes purposefully push aroma to its diners. The ONAGA uses a steam bath of flower petals and leaf scent. I found this a little strange, as I associate these scents and colors to spring time. But wait. In the next dish, PHEASANT, the Chef does a 180. He brings out a branch of oak leaves that is burning (sidebar: to not overwhelm the space with smoke or burning branches, only one of dishes was burning). A complete reversal in presentation and taste. This was a solid tasty one bite dish, one of the better one bite items on the menu. The last of the super-scented dishes is the LAMB. An air pillow is placed in front as a place mat to the lamb and fig plate. Once again a strong juxtaposition to your senses, a light scent and a heavy tasting dish.

Bread sponging is something that Miss Manners might not approve of, but at table 14, we needed a few more slices (cracked wheat, pumpernickel, ciabatta, and raisin something were the selection for the evening) for the SQUAB. The drippings of foie, licorice, squab and watermelon is a magnificent combination for a sauce. Prior to our indecorum, the staff made us sample a small gelatinous cube of fennel and fennel pollen. Itself, a wonderful palate cleanser, we had them bring out another round.

For a modern twist on the cheese puff try the IDIAZABAL. It has the appearance of a headdress, brought out on a custom holder, and a color combination of an iPod. What's not to like. Nice touch on the maple syrup (note to self: drizzle some Karo in bag of Pirate's Booty).

After the 'shroom pudding, a palate cleanser is brought forth. The BURDOCK, with the bitters, dark beer and sassafras was a smashing success. It was great. I found that the ingredients work well together. All the ingredient's flavors were at a level plateau, you can capture each distinct taste in every bite. A great edible aperitif.

The OPAH was capped with a charred piece of ham and drizzled with honey centerpiece. The inclusion of the grapefruit tied in the flavors. I found this dish heavy, but not as much as the next one. The BISON, with the pistachio and truffle sauce, was a meal in itself.

yellow truffle

yellow truffle

Posted
Posted

CONCLUSION

In at 1836, out by 0100. No seven and a half hour meal here, of course we were lacking a few courses. We could have done it much quicker if we did not take multiple breaks. Our extracurricular activities include stepping out for a breath of fresh air (or nicotine) and a trip around the block. This was done three times and the wait staff (and I'm sure the kitchen) was accommodating.

As a person not trained in the culinary arts I found it difficult to write a play by play account of each of the dishes. Difficult in that I lack the ability to deconstruct each dish's ingredients and preparation technique. But I don't care. I'm here to enjoy the aesthetic experience. Not everything was memorable, not everything was on par, but in total it all added up to be a superb meal. One would be smart if they waited for the transition phase to the fall menu to cease, and they had it solidified set meal. But Alinea is ever dynamic, and I think it will always be in transition. It's what keeps the diners coming back. It's what keeps me coming back.

ronnie_suburban

ronnie_suburban

Posted
Posted

Thank you, Anthony, for taking the time to share your images and impressions with us again. I'm heading back to Alinea next month and I'm really looking forward to experiencing the fall menu -- now, even more so.

=R=

"Hey, hey, careful man! There's a beverage here!" --The Dude, The Big Lebowski

LTHForum.com -- The definitive Chicago-based culinary chat site

ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com

chefg

chefg

Posted
Posted
Looking at the menu one notes that there are a few absent dishes. Gone is the PB+J, the highly recognized starter course from the early days. Also missing in action are the SOUR CREAM, the HEART OF PALM and the VICHI CATALAN (on the beverage side). As you may have noticed, making its return, is the familiar tenant on the Alinea menu, BACON. Tasty as always, not a thing has changed since it was first introduced. Shall I dare say, "signature dish." It is fast becoming so, as the dish can be had on all the three menus (or at least you can ask for it). Is this the new Black Truffle Explosion?

No. The bacon will be replaced next week when the first of the Burgundy Black Truffles arrive. Signature dish...come on yt...you know us better than that. The shift from summer to fall has been challenging. Dishes that have been waiting for the weather to change ..i.e. the pheasant, we were able to add as soon as the weather shifted. But some of the others we are still waiting on ingredients to come available or specific service pieces to be finished. As I said before it is like a game of Jenga...there are so many pieces supporting each other that unless you change the menu entirely at once...which is impossible without a prolonged closure...there are the inevitable situations where the jive of the menu is disrupted. For instance, if we are waiting for Martin to finish a piece that is crucial to the dish, and that dish will replace the Onaga with floral vapor...you are in a holding pattern for a period. I don’t think it is dreadful to eat that dish in October, it still makes culinary sense to me…but I agree it would be better in May.

You had the first honeycomb centerpiece...and it is actually the only one that is finished...the rest will be completed next week. The Hot potato-Cold potato is also awaiting the completion of the "Peg Bowl" before it can be introduced. In fact you received several “first timers”.

--

Grant Achatz

Chef/Owner

Alinea

iheartoffal

iheartoffal

Posted
Posted
What is a Burgundy Black Truffle?

It's a type of truffle common in Burgundy, but also cultivated elsewhere. It has a flavor (at least to me) similar to the summer black truffle.

Nothing to see here.

VaNC

VaNC

Posted
Posted

Okay,

This southern girl made it up to Chicago this weekend and made it to Alinea on Friday night with "some help from my friends". It was everything I expected and more. Or, actually, it was not one thing I expected...pretentious. As I told Mr. Surburban earlier today, Chicago is a great town. Like NYC without the pretention and with better architecture. I guess having read all the hype, we were a little worried that we would like the food at Alinea, but find the staff taking themselves very seriously. My husband and I worried we would be surpressing giggles all night. I am thrilled to say that from the moment we entered, Chris and the rest of the staff made the night a relaxing, great time. They were laughing along with us. I am amazed by the knowledge and skill of every single staff member who waited on us, and it seemed like lots of staff were serving us, which we enjoyed. There was always someone there when you needed them.

I really can't talk about the food as well as others, so I will not go through each dish. Of course, it was incredible. It made us laugh, sometimes, it was so unexpected. But, I have to comment on one dish in particular, as I have been thinking about it every since. We did the 12 course with pairings, and one course was the pheasant with "oak leaves", as previously described. Now, you need to know that I, like many, grew up in a town/time when you could burn leaves in your yard. So, to me, the smell of burning leaves means fall, cold weather, hot chocolate, trick-or-treating on a brisk night, thanksgiving, and, of course, cold weather food, like root vegetables, sauces, mushrooms and game. So, the dish, when delivered to our table with the smell of just extinquished oak leaves, my mind flew back to all of those images. Then, I put into my mouth the pheasant which contained all those fall flavors, just melting across my tongue....and it, well, it blew me away. My mind and body had been manipulated to prepare my mouth for that taste. It was a marvel. It was worth the plane ticket to Chicago. That one bite. So, Chefg, I am assuming this is what you were going for... and it really worked. Thanks. It IS a whole different way to look at food.

I am so glad I am writing this for people that may understand this or I would REALLY feel stupid.

Oh, and Chefg, I will be emailing separately, but I have to add that those are the most comfortable chairs I have sat in. I have a bad back which had been hurting all day from the plane flight and had been worried about the 3 hours of sitting. My back starting feeling better about 15 minutes after I sat down and was great the rest of the night. I asked Chris and, of course, he tells me they are made in my home state of NC....go figure. I will be in touch. We are in the market for dining room chairs and I HAVE TO know where you got them.

docsconz

docsconz

Posted
Posted

YT, those are amongst the most fabulous food photos I have ever seen. Wow. i can't wait to experience at least some of those dishes. early December, here I come!

John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

chicagowench

chicagowench

Posted
Posted

Having just caught up on this thread, I am now filled with almost unholy levels of impatience for my reservation next Wed. with colleagues.

What do you mean I shouldn't feed the baby sushi?

KendallCollege

KendallCollege

Posted
Posted

I have to chime in. Its been nearly 5 months since my last visit, and I have to be honest, my withdrawls are nearing the unbearable mark. I get very nostalgic, in general, in fall and seeing autumn leaves as a key element in a dish is all I can handle.

Chef Achatz, only a midwesterner like you can tie this season together in such a pristine and humerous way.

I have to pick up the phone and renew my phone-tag match from last May with Joe Catterson (i hope that joke reaches the right person!).

Trevor Williams

-Kendall College-

eGullet Ethics Signatory

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...