Jewish Paris

[silverbrow]

I'm interested in doing a bit of a cultural tour around those bits of Paris that either have historically had Jewish communities or currently have a large Jewish population. I'd particularly like to draw on this Board's knowledge for kosher restaurants and kosher food shops. I'm also interested to know in which arrondisment the majority of kosher shops/restaurants are. I know historically the Marais had a large Jewish population but my impression (perhaps incorrectly) is that this is no longer the case, although some restaurants and shops remain.

All help gratefully received.

[Gifted Gourmet]

Before I went to Paris, I read this for a great deal of insight and historical background:

the article from the Jewish Virtual Library ..

but as to how updated the recent information actually is, I am still uncertain.

While I was in Paris about two years ago, I visited Chez Goldenberg on the rue de Rosiers, a popular spot for spicy kosher-style cooking, and was pleased with the food as well as the ambiance.

more on the area of the Marais and the Jewish population there

Jews still crowd the rue des Rosiers, rue de Temple, and rue de Turenne. Despite this emptiness, the Marais continues to thrive. It is a living symbol of the contradictions, ironies, and continuity of Jewish existence in the 20th century.

[John Talbott]

I'm interested in doing a bit of a cultural tour around those bits of Paris that either have historically had Jewish communities or currently have a large Jewish population.  I'd particularly like to draw on this Board's knowledge for kosher restaurants and kosher food shops.  I'm also interested to know in which arrondisment the majority of kosher shops/restaurants are.  I know historically the Marais had a large Jewish population but my impression (perhaps incorrectly) is that this is no longer the case, although some restaurants and shops remain.

All help gratefully received.

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Yes, the Marais (4th) is where to go. There are 2 Goldenberg's, one in the 4th and the other is in the 17th. Timeout also lists l'As du Fallafel, Chez Marianne, Pitchi Poi, Les Ailes + Benittah. Emmanuel Rubin's Gourmet Paris also lists Le Train de Vie, Au Puits de Jacob, Hamman Cafe, l'Auberge de Belleville, Lotus de Nissan, Yunpana, Bistro Blanc, Natanya, Chez Jonatrhan, Mi-Va-Mi, Cafe des Psaumes, Chekel Cafe, + a la Libanese .

Except for Goldenberg's from which I've had take-out I cannot counsel you.

[Gifted Gourmet]

Jewish restaurants and the arrondissements

[menton1]

Be sure not to miss the wonderful Museum of Judaic Art & History on 71, rue du Temple in the 4th. A beautiful restored "hotel", there are changing exhibits as well as a lot of Paris' Jewish heritage.

During WWII, France saved 2/3 of their Jewish population which was about 600,000 at the time. They did it quietly and individually with small heroic acts by common folks and the Résistance. It is an ongoing source of argument re France's treatment of Jews historically and today. This museum adds some important dimensions to the discussion.

[silverbrow]

That's great - thanks for all that advice. If anyone else has anything else to chip in please do so - the more info the better.

[John Talbott]

Be sure not to miss the wonderful Museum of Judaic Art & History on 71, rue du Temple in the 4th.  A beautiful restored "hotel", 

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Yes. And the new Museum of the Shoah, 17 rue Geoffroy l’Asnier in the 4th is also worth a visit as is the Memorial to the Deportation which is just at the SE end of the Ile de la Cite facing Notre Dame.

[SuzySushi]

The French Government Tourist Office in New York puts out a 24-page publication called FranceGuide for Jewish Travelers. You can request it free through www.franceguide.com.

[marlena spieler]

at l'as du felafel, on rue des rosiers, be sure to get the delux felafel, the one with everything. it comes with eggplant, the plain ones are not as gaudily delicious.

museums recommended really great. if you're on rue des rosier any time near a jewish holiday there is usually a very festival spirit. at chanukka chabadnicks sometimes give out little chanukkiot. and the bakery, oh what is the name, it starts with an S, makes special chanukka treats, and the women in there are a laugh.

you can get H and H bagels on rue de turenne, there are a couple of pleasant jewish cafes there. there is a kosher sushi place not far, but i forget the name. when i was there last, about 6-8 months ago, many of the young observant jews said they did not wear their kippot (and kept their tzitzes tucked into their trousers) as they were not safe on the street if they had obvious signs of being jewish. isn't that sad.

marlena

[John Talbott]

there is a kosher sushi place not far, but i forget the name.

marlena

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The sushi place is Yunpana, Nems at Lotus de Nissan, wide fire grilled stuff at l'Auberge de Belleville, sorry I didn't specify above.

[menton1]

The most well-known bakery on the Rue des Rosiers is Florence Finkelstajn, famous for strudel, cheesecake, and "Pletzls". (Fabulous)

[David Lebovitz]

There is currently an exhibition of the Jews in the Marais in Paris right now (until August) at the Hotel de Ville on the rue de Rivoli. It seems interesting and worth checking out as well. Perhaps there is details at http://www.paris.fr

[bloviatrix]

The most well-known bakery on the Rue des Rosiers is Florence Finkelstajn, famous for strudel, cheesecake, and "Pletzls".  (Fabulous)

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This place is fabulous. I still remember gorging on their stuff.

You should check Sedar Olam out. It's a great resource for kosher restaurants and markets.

I've been told Juliette is excellent. Plus, if the Cine Citta in Surfside, FL is any indication, the original in Paris should be very good as well.

Edited May 8, 2005 by bloviatrix (log)

[John Talbott]

Last Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, in the sidebar, they talk of Jewish cooking lessons at Alef-Bet a deli-Jewish product store at 25, rue Galande in the 5th, 01.40.18.17.22.

[porkpa]

The pletzls are beyond delicious. When returning home from Paris I always stop to get at least a half dozen for the plain. A pletzl with sweet butter and most any kind of cheese beats anything you can get on a plane.