WTN: Super Bowl Wines with Brian Loring

[Brad Ballinger]

First off, I'm never doing that again. I don't mean drinking wines with Brian or even drinking his wines, but I mean tasting a lot of wine while the Super Bowl is on. I was too busy tasting and talking about wine, that I hardly saw any of the game. And I don't think I saw a single commercial.

Brian Loring was in the Twin Cities over that weekend. He conducted a tasting at a local wine shop, signed bottles, drank with us at Paul Campbell's for the Stuper Bowl, and then gathered with some of the eBob boys on Monday night at a restaurant for a domestic pinot noir themed tasting. I was going to attend on Monday, but then decided against an evening of too much domestic pinot noir. That, and my daughter had a basketball game.

At the retail shop, I brought a couple of bottles for Brian to sign. I looked for a thinning of the crowd so I could say hello, introduce myself, etc. Well, I got behind one guy who hogged Brian for a good 15 minutes. At least I got to talk to Ken Koch, the distributor who reps Brian's wines locally, during that time. When the guy in front of me finally left, there was a throng behind me who wanted to hear Brian's story. I quickly said I'd see him during the Super Bowl and left.

Fast forward to the next day. There was quite a gathering at Paul's house. And there was far too much open wine that I didn't nearly get to all of it. I might have had I not promised my wife that I'd try to be home shortly after halftime. Well, I ended up not leaving until after the third quarter (is that still "shortly after halftime?"), and still hardly made a dent in the wines.

1996 Moet et Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon. One thing that Brian and I have in common is that we are both Champagne sluts. Paul was kind enough to start out the evening with this wine. But I'm fooling no one -- he did it 100% for Brian and 0% for me. This particular cuvee, apart from an off-putting sweatsock/body odor thing that never entirely went away, had a strong citrus profile featuring white grapefruit flesh and pith. There were also light bisuity yeasty notes, and some steely minerality. The flavors turned toward pear and wild strawberries on the finish. It had a forceful, aggressive mousse and a nice dose of natural acidiy.

NV Privat Laieta Cava Reserva Brut Nature. This 100% chardonnay cava is served in a tall, thin, tapered bottle that is very cool-looking. I'm hosting a Champagne tasting shortly, so I wanted to bring a wine that wouldn't show up there. This was a nice wine that showed off and aroma of juicy lemons and oranges with an undercurrent of minerals and roasted nuts. The fruit seemed almost green-like on the attack, but turned toward baked apples just before swallowing and pear skin on the finish. Very odd. Initially, a subdued mousse that grows more coarse with time in the mouth. Acidic as well with a hazelnut skin astringency going on.

NV Gaston Chicquet Brut Blanc de Blancs, Ay Grand Cru. More toast and roast than the other wines thus far. The mousse is pronounced, yet more silky in its texture than that of the other wines. This wine goes down very easily. Nice chardonnay profile with plenty of minerals and toastiness.

1996 Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon Brut Rose. Brian contributed this wine, which was my no-brainer WOTN. Very clean berry-driven nose with elements of pie dough. Delicate, velvety mousse. Wonderful "still wine" acidity. Tart cherry flavors and brioche are present in the mouth. Incredibly clean and tightly focused.

Here's where the notes become greatly abbreviated. It was at this time, after my fourth wine, that I noticed many were already done with the pinots and then some. There was one wine already emptied (I can't remember what one, but I know it was one I was interested in trying).

1993 Fleury Cuvee Fleur de l'Europe Brut Rose. Also one of Brian's. This wine is from 100% organically-farmed pinot noir. I belive there is no shipping dosage, but I'm not completely sure about that. Anyway, for a 1993, this was incredibly alive and very forwardly fruity. And that's all I wrote.

On to the still wines.

2002 Romano Clelia "Colli di Lapio" Fiano di Avellino.This wine showed more fat and ripeness than earlier vintages have shown me. But it's still tropical fruit and rain water at its core. A little waxy. Lacks complexity of earlier vintages.

2000 Kuleto Estate Pinot Noir, Napa Valley. Only okay. So-so nose, a little oaky. It's a Napa pinot that wants to be a Russian River pinot. Lots of cola here.

1999 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir, Sharon's Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley. I think this is the first wine Brian made, but I'm not sure. I liked it more than most of the others, and it's a wine no one will confuse with a syrah. Thankfully. Quite fragrant yet. Some cola and herbs. Decent acidity.

2000 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir, Gary's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. The most Burgundy-like of the LWC lineup present. Note, I didn't say it was Burgundian, just the "most" Burgundy-like. On the nose, I get alcohol, wood, and some VA. If I swirl fast enough, there is dill and cola underneath. But, overall, too alcoholic for me -- although I liked the acidity.

2001 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir, Clos Pepe Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills. This was the hardest of the LWC lineup for me to drink. Fennel, charcoal, vanilla, and wood. There is an undercore of a good fruit profile, but I can't shake the veggies. More restrained in the acidity department.

2003 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir, Gary's Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. Bright red fruit, dill, smoked meats. I'd like to revisit it in a year or so, and I can because I have a bottle.

2003 Siduri Pinot Noir, Pisoni Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. Another one with high out-of-balance alcohol that I'm sure only bothers me. Hot, burning finish.

1997 Mugneret Ruchottes-Chambertin. Something that isn't alcohol and wood. Cracked pepper, tart cherry, rhubarb in the flavor profile. A little smoky. More balanced than any of the California wines. And a lifetime ahead of it yet.

1991 Viader, Napa Valley. 54% cabernet sauvignon, 46% cabernet franc. The tannins are just starting to resolve, and the wine is also starting to take on a maturity that some described as Bordeaux-like. I'm not sure I'd go that far, but it's a wine that I think still has a good 2-3 years to peak.

After the Viader, which I wanted to try because I brought it and have one more in the cellar, I went back to bubbles. I didn't try any of the Piemonte wines or the Australian Shiraz wines from producers I've never heard of. And I didn't even pour the Donnhoff or the Merkelbach. Something about promising when I'd be home.

[Rebel Rose]

at Paul Campbell's for the Stuper Bowl

Incredible notes, Brad. Good effort, even though you didn't get through them all! Now I know why you call it the 'Stupor Bowl.'