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Vacation wines of note


Florida Jim

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On a recent trip to St. Barth, several wines of interest were consumed:

1995 Rousseau, Chambertin:

One of the most complex Burgundies I have smelled – many sorts of tropical and red fruits at various stages of ripeness, light accents of mushroom, earth, underbrush and tobacco with hints of a number of spices – all of which, fade in and out and weave among the other smells, amazing; not the density on the palate that I expect from this bottling and a bit more tannin than I care for – not that the palate was thin or in the least bit ordinary, rather that it did not measure-up to the nose; medium length finish. Perhaps, a little time?

1990 Drouhin, Clos des Mouches:

Rich and textural on the nose with wonderful, full fruit (not even a hint of over-ripeness), with elements of stone and spice – became more expansive as the wine opened; deep and rich in the mouth repeating the fruit and accents of the nose with an intense and very well concentrated delivery and without any angularity; long, structured finish. Currently showing some development with further development probable. Lovely wine.

1999 Doruhin, Cote de Beaune:

(We were told this was declassed Clos des Mouches and considering the success/volume of the vintage, I see no reason to question that); the muscular baby brother of the preceding wine which, once it had a bit of air, showed the firm, mineral infused fruit of the Mouches. Will keep nicely.

2002 Chateau de Maligny (Jean Durup), Petit Chablis:

Simply the finest Petit Chablis I have tasted (although frankly, I have not tasted all that many because most are unimpressive); certainly rivals the premier cru selections from this house for concentrated flavor and aroma, while being fresh, open and delicious now. Inexpensive at twice the price.

Many others, including a number of utterly charming, inexpensive and thirst quenching roses from Provenace, St. Tropez, Bandol, etc.

(Aside: I suspect this happens to others – occasionally in my life I see a unique natural phenomena that make such an impression on me that I am both awed and inspired. One morning this trip I saw a perfect rainbow; a full 180 degrees, vibrant color throughout, each end visible and extremely close. I thought to run and get Diane but was afraid to move least the vision be lost.

I will never look at rainbows the same way again.)

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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