Bouchons of Lyon

[JGreen7292]

I note that there are 21 'authentic' bouchons listed for Lyon ....Informal consensus seems to favor Le Merciere, Chez Georges and A Ma Vigne.....Would be interested (and appreciative) of feedback and opinions on these and others - - recommendations and specialties.....I've not seen much discussion of the bouchons on Lyon postings.

[menton1]

One of the bouchons never mentioned on the Lyon Bouchon lists is a place we stumbled upon while browsing at a pottery street fair last September. It is in Vieux Lyon, and is patronized by mostly locals, and is quite authentic. The Quennelles are outstanding.

LES LYONNAIS

1 RUE TRAMASSAC

69005 LYON

0478376482

[Margaret Pilgrim]

When a table at A Ma Vigne was not available for the day and time we wanted, we booked at Daniel et Denise. It is a larger dining room than many of the other bouchons, but the food was excellent and the service adorable.

My husband ordered muscles as an entree. Half way through his serving, the waiter quietly slipped away his shell bowl and replaced it with an empty one. My husband took this opportunity to count his remaining muscles: 42 left after eating half the serving, and this a starter course! He finally gave up, and shifted his bowl over to me. When I started to use a piece of bread to sop up some of the excellent sauce, a spoon miraculously appeared at my place.

After I had polished off a workingman's portion of tablier de sapeur, leaving the potato accompaniment, our waiter paused at our table to appraise my plate and nodded with satisfaction over my accomplishment.

Because portions were so large, we asked at the end of our meal if on future visits we could order smaller portions or fewer dishes. He said that we were welcome to order one dish or ten at lunch or at dinner. All they cared about was that their clients enjoyed their food and left happy.

(A couple of weeks ago I was surprised to notice a sign on the front of the Bistrot du Paradou near Arles linking that Bistrot with this Lyonnaise bouchon.)

Daniel et Denise

156, rue de Créqui

Lyon 3e

04.78.60.66.53

[PS]

I was in Lyon at the end of last year and would recommend La Meuniere, Rue Neuve:

One of the starter options was a sample of ten starters, which seemed a good ways of getting up to speed with bouchon cuisine - help yourself from the bowls brought to the table, including lentil salad (I have no idea how they made lentils taste so good!), tete de veau, pied de veau, pied de mouton, herring, musseau in vinegar... My main course was a whole roasted veal kidney. De-lish!

[Marco_Polo]

What about the old Café des Fédérations on the rue Major-Martin in the old quartier. We've enjoyed straightforward and delicious working class Lyonnais fare, great charcuterie (notably rosette), as well as the likes of pissenlit aux lardons, tablier de sapeur that was bigger than the plate, boudin aux pommes and delightful house Morgon by the pot. I wonder if Raymond is still there?

[cru]

Lyon simply cannot be visited without dining at La Meuniere and Café des Fédérations. These are two of the most wonderful restaurants in the world. Especially La Meuniere. Don't forget to start with the assortment of appetizers. And a glass from the huge bottle of house made Communard, or, red wine kir.