WTN: 2002 William Fevre Les Clos

[DonRocks]

So if I use the word "gobs" will you guys believe me that this is a prodigiously good wine?

How many people rave about elegance in explosive terms? Fuck it, let's go...

It's GOOD. It rocks. Kicks major, actually. It blows you away with its lack of new oak. It'll mow down your chops with its chalky understated finish. It's so balanced that it will truck a breezy flare from your dimple, rid instinct, verbose defamation, and enable you to gloss over it in an unabashedly joyous celebration of editorial elegance.

That, my friends, is the 02 Fevre Clos. Word.

Buy this beautifully transparent gem-of-a-wine, and enjoy a great terroir, in its full glory, unobstructed by long hang times, excessive toasting, and ego-lick winemaking signature, and enjoy it at a bargain price considering it's one of the world's great soils.

Cheers,

Rocks.

Edited October 13, 2004 by DonRocks (log)

[docsconz]

Now that is what I call wine criticism You didn't enjoy it, did you

Sounds good....I guess. Rock on Don!

Seriously, thanks for the heads up.

[LindaJ]

Well, that's one of the most vivid tasting notes I've read

Glad it was so good!

[Craig Camp]

Jeez, if you write a note like that about Fevre, what the heck will you write about a Domaine Pinson!

[Florida Jim]

Don,

Enthusiasm appreciated.

But a serious question if I may; what would you say was the wine's weak point. And I'm not asking for flaws but rather, if you had say a weak point, what would you say.

(FYI, I try to do what I'm asking with every wine. Not as a way of lessening its emotional impact or its physical delight, but as an exercise in critical technique. Of course, I seldom write about that stuff because, like you, enthusiasm is what I'm really feeling. But I have an analytic side and wondered if you do, too.)

Best, Jim

[DonRocks]

Don,

Enthusiasm appreciated.

But a serious question if I may; what would you say was the wine's weak point. And I'm not asking for flaws but rather, if you had say a weak point, what would you say.

(FYI, I try to do what I'm asking with every wine. Not as a way of lessening its emotional impact or its physical delight, but as an exercise in critical technique. Of course, I seldom write about that stuff because, like you, enthusiasm is what I'm really feeling. But I have an analytic side and wondered if you do, too.)

Best, Jim

←

I'm never drinking again.

Okay, let me try and write something constructive. It's very hard for me to talk about a weak point in this wine, which comes across as a perfect sphere. Some people might want a bigger sphere, with more of everything, but I don't care about size or weight as long as the wine is in balance, and so often when a wine has additional oomph, it bears the burden of lumps and spikes tainting the sphere - toast, or smoke, or presumptive viscosity, etc. Maybe a "weakness" of this wine is its lack of versatility: something that whispers is probably best had alone rather than with a meal. It's extremely primary and gives the mistaken impression of being lean, and it will probably never show more terroir than it does right now although with additional bottle age it will take on additional weight and depth, making it more food-friendly in the years to come.

Sheepishly,

Rocks.

[Brad Ballinger]

Nice passion, Don.

I've not had the particular wine, but I have had some premier cru wines from Fevre in earlier vintages. With Les Clos being a grand cru, that may kick the wine up a notch.

These wines do show a stunning minerality that was not always the case with Fevre. Surprisingly this producer has reversed a trend happening all too frequently elsewhere in the world. Fevre the elder used large amounts of oak. Fevre the younger, who has taken over the operation, doesn't use any.

[Florida Jim]

Okay, let me try and write something constructive.  It's very hard for me to talk about a weak point in this wine, which comes across as a perfect sphere.  Some people might want a bigger sphere, with more of everything, but I don't care about size or weight as long as the wine is in balance, and so often when a wine has additional oomph, it bears the burden of spikes sticking out from the sphere - toast or smoke, conquering viscosity, etc.  Maybe a "weakness" of this wine is its lack of versatility:  something that whispers is probably best had alone rather than with a meal.  It's extremely primary and gives the mistaken impression of being lean, and it will probably never show more terroir than it does right now although with additional bottle age it will take on additional weight and depth, making it more food-friendly in the years to come.

Extremely helpful; thanks.

The complete sphere analogy is one I relate to and understatement, especially in Chablis, is my preference. I will look for a bottle or two for the cellar.

Best, Jim

[GordonCooks]

I'm never drinking again.

Okay, let me try and write something constructive.  It's very hard for me to talk about a weak point in this wine, which comes across as a perfect sphere.  Some people might want a bigger sphere, with more of everything, but I don't care about size or weight as long as the wine is in balance, and so often when a wine has additional oomph, it bears the burden of spikes sticking out from the sphere - toast or smoke, conquering viscosity, etc.  Maybe a "weakness" of this wine is its lack of versatility:  something that whispers is probably best had alone rather than with a meal.  It's extremely primary and gives the mistaken impression of being lean, and it will probably never show more terroir than it does right now although with additional bottle age it will take on additional weight and depth, making it more food-friendly in the years to come.

Sheepishly,

Rocks.

←

That's a great analogy - I'm going to steal it from you

[RobInAustin]

I've had this wine, and have to concur with both reviews! Am thrilled that I snagged three last bottles for my personal cellar.

Cheers,

Rob

[tanabutler]

If Florida Jim's writing has been likened (by me) to that of William Carlos Williams, I think I'm gonna dub you the Hunter S. Thompson of wine reviewers. This is gonzo guzzling at its finest, Don Rocks.

Send me a bottle of that stuff, wouldja?