Devi

[mazman]

This was an interesting post veal cheeks thanks...I have never been to Devi and only to Tabla once which was unmemorable, but maybe not for the food, 5 years ago is a long time. I wonder if folks have been to Vij's in Vancouver and can compare with Devi and/or Tabla. Vij's was the most amazing Indian food I ever had--the Prawns in Mango Curry one of the best dishes I have ever had anywhere, anytime. Vij's is causal and hip, even more so than Tabla but the food struck me as quite serious in an off hand way, kind of like Lassi is but even more so. I am curious if anyone has been to Vij's and can offer a point of comparison.

[Anonymouze]

Jeff and I are considering going here in the future, is this the "best" Indian food with a Tasting Menu NY has to offer or are there any other outstanding ones, feel free to PM me as well. Thanks!

[Sneakeater]

I think it is. But somebody's got to compare it to that new place Yuva (on 58th St.) that Fat Guy recently wrote about.

Edited March 6, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[ASM NY]

I went to Devi for the first time last night, and I can only say that I am very disappointed. I can totally see what the vision is regarding the use of non-Indian ingredients and techniques, but in my opinion, it misses the mark completely. I would consider a place like Tamarind better than Devi (not that I love Tamarind). All said and done, I would take the neighborhood Baluchi's to my experience at Devi.

We started with a trio of samosas and the manchurian cauliflower. The trio of samosas was "ok", but certainly not better than what I have had elsewhere, or in any restaurant in Curry Hill. The manchurian cauliflower was, in my opinion, very poor. Slightly breaded cauliflower, fried, and a tomato sauce that tasted like it came from a heinz ketchup bottle. When I sent it back, the waiter noted that that was their signature dish. My response was that if THIS was their signature dish, that it spoke very poorly about the restaurant (I have tried it elsewhere and am a fan of the dish). I returned it and went with the tandoori chicken stuffed with lamb. It was ok.

For main courses we had the halibut (fish of the day) and the beef curry (first time I see beef in an Indian restaurant). The beef curry was actually very good, no complaints there. The halibut was too salty and overcooked.

For desserts, we had the kulfi and the banana "sundae". The kulfi itself was not bad, but it came in a citrus sauce that didn't work well with the kulfi. The banana sundae was not bad at all.

I can totally see what Devi tries to accomplish, and it saddens me that it doesn't, I really did want to like the place and went in with high expectations. Based on my experience, I couldn't say it's one of the best Indian restaurants in the city, I couldn't even say that it's a good Indian restaurant at all. I don't see myself going back.

[ckkgourmet]

I can see why some diners haven't enjoyed Devi: it is not always excellent. My first time at Devi I wondered what the fuss was about. On my second, I was in love. I've been back now perhaps a dozen times. The chef's menu is good, but I am surprised to hear myself saying that I think ordering off the regular menu is the way to go--at least based on my experience. Amongst other excellent dishes, I think the Goan preparations of shrimp and other seafoods are generally amazing. All the vegetarian dishes are excellent. The fried okra is also a worthy side to any meal.

One of things I particularly enjoy at Devi (and I could name a great many) are the various rice preparations that come with entrees. I remember one that had the consistency of sushi rice in being composed of fat but distinct grains of rice pressed together in a mold. In this case, however, the chef had also dripped some sort of yogurt or kurds (I forget precisely which) into the mixture, giving the whole the slightest effect and accent of a creamy custard. I know not how to adequately describe the effect, but I remember my friends and I remarking that it was one of the best preparations of rice we had ever had.

Some of the deserts are unusually good too. I think there is something called the Emperor's morsel that I'd have every night, if I could. But the "tasting of creams" is the best desert on the menu that I've tried. One, particularly good, is a sublime version of rice pudding that conquers all competitors in its high excellence.

[Sneakeater]

I've noticed a lack of consistency at Devi, too. It's troubling, because when it's good, it's so very great.

[ASM NY]

Perhaps it's worth trying again... it's just usually difficult to return to a place you did not enjoy. I hate the idea of sitting there wondering... "how come I am back here? "

Either way, I want to check out Yuva first and see how they compare.

[ckkgourmet]

Encouraged by the recent raves about Yuva, I did a little experiment this week. On Thursday night, I dined at Yuva, and last (Friday) night, I dined at Devi. While Yuva was very special, I still thought Devi won hands down.

Although the impression is based for the moment on a single experience at Yuva (and many at Devi), I think that I would reiterate that Yuva has a somewhat more traditional menu (Chicken Tikka Masala, for instance) than Devi. Given that I thought these more traditional dishes would tell me something about the restaurant, I ordered a few of them alongside more creative concoctions. The Chicken Tikka Masala was quite good with a rich and sweet sauce. It was not, however, much superior to other good traditional renditions that I have tried and liked elsewhere (at places like Swagat on the UWS, and Bukhara). For appetizers, I liked, but did not love, the crab cakes--I concede they were very airy. Other appetizers, like the wonderful papaya salad, I liked better. The sea bass entree and the cheese balls (I am not up on Indian terminologies, I am afraid) were both good. That said, I did not have the sense of unfettered imagination and (often) flawless execution that makes most of my meals at Devi frequently vertiginous. Perhaps it is a matter of returning to Yuva, as I most certainly will, but the food at Devi is still the best Indian in NYC...for my money anyhow.

Edited April 8, 2006 by ckkgourmet (log)

[ASM NY]

Devi is still the best Indian in NYC...for my money anyhow.

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I guess I will have to return and give it another shot. But based on my first and only experience there, I find your statement above pretty discouraging...