German Wine

[Gavin Convery]

My recent frequent trips to Germany for work have prompted an interest in German wine.

I can't believe how cheap German wine is for the quality. Take as an example JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese (91/100 score I believe in WS) - this cost me 20 Euros/ £13.

Admittedly I have yet to taste it (just came back yesterday) but I have similar wines of quality at an average price of £10/16Euros. What about Dr Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese at 10Euros/£6.50 - delicious!

Is this just because they are unfashionable or is something else going on?

[Rieslingfan]

Fashion has never really caught up with Germany. There have been some price increases lately (especially in the USA), but the backlash is already starting to hit on the higher prices.

The German vintners work very hard for what they produce. I actually feel bad for them. They do not get a great return on investment (except perhaps Robert Weil and Keller).

Germans Riesling makes up 65% of my cellar, so I certainly love it, but even the buzz from 2001 has won off. Many fine 2002s have been languishing on the shelves.

Prum is delicious, but Wine Spectator does not understand it. These wines need lots and lots of air or time. Try decanting a young Prum Spatlese for 8 hours & then see how delicious it is. You'll never drink one straight away after opeing again.

[Gavin Convery]

Thanks, Riesling fan,

I certainly found the nose on the Prum Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese 2002 very unusual, a hint of petrol but something much stranger overwhelming that. In the mouth it was the most delicate wine I had ever tasted and had a beautiful elegance. I will certainly try decanting as you suggest with the Wehlener Sonnenuhr.

Are you in the UK? Which merchant do you use?

[Brad Ballinger]

I agree with David that the wines of JJ Prum need to be left alone for a while. There is a high sulfur and petrol component to these wines that needs either time or air to be not so dominant.

As regards pricing, I think we're coming to an end of the "good old days." If you've seen any pricing for the 2003 vintage either on pre-arrival or at retail for a few wines, the prices are increasing exponentially. Part of it (here in the U.S. at any rate) may be the strength of the euro against the dollar. But a lot more of it, IMO, has to do with hype.

Edited to add -- Oh, and David (Reisling Fan) is in Massachussets.

[Gavin Convery]

Fortunately I can buy these wines in Germany for sometimes half the price of what they cost in the UK. Don't know how that relates to the US.

Tasted a fantastic Dalsheimer Hubacker Spatlese 2002 from Franz Keller last night which I paid 12Euros for = 7 GBP. It was one of the best bottles of wine I have tasted. So there is going to have to be a big increase in the price before I start considering these wines expensive.

[Brad Ballinger]

That Keller wine is about $25 U.S. If you can grab the same wine, but the Goldkap bottle ($40 U.S.), you will be in for a treat and a bargain. Up until very recently the Rheinhessen has been overlooked. But with Keller, Wittmann, and Gunderloch (and sometimes Strub), it's starting to get some recognition.

[Gavin Convery]

Brad,

Thanks for that. My local German specialist lists a Dalsheimer Hubacker Spatlese No. 26 retailing at about $40 equivalent - is that the same? No mention of a Gold Capsule though....

[Brad Ballinger]

Dunno. Keller also makes a trocken, which would also be fun to try.

[john@thebar]

The Dr. Loosen portfolio also includes an an entry level blend simply named Dr. L. Riesling. It retails for $10-12 dollars around Chicago and delivers a lot of bang for the buck. Kabinett level of sweetness, lovely floral nose, and enough acidity to pair well with spicy cuisene, Dr. L is a great stepping stone toward getting acquainted with what the eminently paraphrasable (is that a word?) Jancis Robinson refers to as the least understood and appreciated grape in winedom.

Edited June 28, 2004 by john@thebar (log)

[jmcnally]

Have to agree that German wines are undervalued. I recently was able buy bottles from both 1990 and 1996 for less than CDN$20. Both were delicious, but the best I've had so far has been the 2002 Ayler Kupp Riesling Kabinett that I picked up for CDN$13.95! Some German rieslings are still a little sweet for my taste, but there are some really amazing bargains compared to, say, Alsace (though I love Alsace!).