WTN: Wines from an Anniversary Weekend

[Brad Ballinger]

These are wines my wife and I had over our anniversary weekend. We stayed at a bed and breakfast that also prepares gourmet dinners. We were able to bring our own wine.

1996 Champagne L. Aubry, Cuvée Aubry de Humbert Brut, Jouy-les-Reims Premier Cru. Okay, the label says 1997. But the guy at the retailer told me that there was a mislabeling or shortage of 1996 labels or something screwy and it is really a 1996. I have no reason to doubt this person, and he is very reliable. The wine was stellar. It had a toasty, nutty aroma that also showed some earthy minerals and red fruit. Very active mousse in the mouth that did not go away quickly or quietly. Flavors of pears, tart apples, plums, in a toasty and nutty package. Minerals are strong on the finish.

1987 Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac. This was a bottle given as a gift, and I have no idea about provenance. But the cork was a son of a bitch to get out. The tools we had at our disposal at the B&B were a Leverpull and a waiter’s service. I don’t believe the former was used, and the latter did nothing more than crumble the top portion of the cork. I had planned to pack my ah-so just for this bottle, but I spaced. I assisted the owner of the B&B and took over the duties of trying to extract the cork. Using the waiter’s service, I was able, after crumbling more cork. to get out the last half-inch or so intact and avoided and cork getting into the wine. We poured the wine into a decanter through a cheesecloth, and were on our way. A word about this decanter. It was an Orrefors brand, and has a great design. It just looks cool, and I have to get one. The wine was wonderfully leathery, floral, meaty, and earthy. It was still holding onto its fruit, but like good Bordeaux was about so much more. Structurally, the tannins were just about resolved, and there was still more acid associated with the fruit than not. The wine likely wasn’t stored the best, but overcame that to provide a pleasant enough experience. As it aerated in glass and decanter, it added to its complexity for a short time, but was fading by the final pour.

We had those two wines on one night, then were joined by another couple on the second night. Usually too much wine gets opened when the four of us get together.

1998 Iron Horse Brut Rosé, Green Valley. The color on this wine is a deep pink. IIRC, the still pinot noir added to this wine is about 8%, at any rate enough to deepen the hue to this level. This is a sparkler that has a strong spice profile that is balanced with a floral sweetness. The texture wasn’t as refined as I prefer, but the flavor was fun.

1995 Olivier Leflaive Meursault, Les Perrieres Premier Cru. Now this is a white wine that a rockhead like me can get lost in. While this wine certainly shows some of the power of Meursault, it’s not as “in your face” as others I’ve had. It has matured well, and makes a case for maturing white Burgundy. The balance here is exquisite, and there are floral, earthy, and nutty tones. I haven’t mentioned any fruit yet. It is here in the form of apple and pear peels and a touch of lemon oil, but those are only players in this wine where no one is taking the stage away from the mineral complexity. And it just kept getting better with air.

1995 Joseph Phelps Insignia, Napa Valley. Jolted back into fruitland with this wine. At this time, the wine is a mouthful of blackcurrant fruit, and is just starting to develop some secondary character in terms of spice and herb. The oak is there, but doesn’t get in the way of my enjoying the wine. Smooth tannins, so-so acidity. I think it will hit its stride in a year or two.

1992 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley. My stash of 1992 California Cabernet is depleting. Since 1992 was our marriage year, I bought up some of the vintage. When those are gone, all that I will have left in the cellar from 1992 are one bottle each of Taylor Fladgate and Fonseca (but those will need to be opened on “landmark” anniversaries, and not something as nondescript as this year’s twelfth). Anyway, back to the wine. There is some bricking at the rim. The aromas show mature cabernet fruit. There is some berry quality, some earth, some tobacco, some coffee. The first sip had me thinking it was faded, but some additional air woke the fruit from its sleep. The wine didn’t have the up front power of the Insignia. It was much more mellow with its tannins just above resolved, and with a bit more balance. Still left from the vintage in California are Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Fay and SLV, Oakford, and two bottles of Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace.

1998 Forteto della Luja Loazzolo Vendemmia Tardiva. I’ve become a huge fan of moscato passito of late, and this wine has shown me a new dimension. Where as the others I’ve enjoyed have showcased flowers, stone fruits, and oranges, this one was more refined and showed me more in the way of spice and almond in addition to its Muscat-like fruit. It also seemed to hold the sugar in check. There’s also a creaminess to the texture. The Loazzolo DOC labels it as vendemmia tardiva and maybe it isn’t a passito wine. I’ve seen it marketed as both, but I confess to not knowing if the terms are interchangeable or if some VT wines are also given passito treatment and others not. Whatever the case, I derive more enjoyment and can think of more versatility for this wine than other moscato passito wines I’ve enjoyed in the past (not that there’s anything wrong with those wines).

1998 Josef Niedermayr Aureus, Alto Adige IGT. This is a sauvignon blanc passito wine that I’ve had on one previous occasion. It’s probably twice as dark as the Forteto della Luja and shows more caramelized fruit character and a healthy dose of spice, particularly ginger and some molasses/licorice. Good acidity level as well, and went very nicely with ginger poached pears stuffed with mascarpone.

[LOS]

I've got a fair stash of the Aubry, which I'm pretty sure I got at the same place you got yours. I heard the same story you did. The corks do say 1996, so I'm inclined to believe it. it doesn't really matter, though -- the wine is fabulous, be it a 1997 or a 1996.

Where'd you get the Forteta della Luja? It sounds interesting, and I like their Moscato d'Asti.

[Brad Ballinger]

I've got a fair stash of the Aubry, which I'm pretty sure I got at the same place you got yours.  I heard the same story you did.  The corks do say 1996, so I'm inclined to believe it.  it doesn't really matter, though -- the wine is fabulous, be it a 1997 or a 1996. 

Where'd you get the Forteta della Luja?  It sounds interesting, and I like their Moscato d'Asti.

I didn't think to look at the cork. Well, I didn't even pull the cork, so there.

The Forteto della Luja Loazzolo can be found at Buon Giorno. They have the 2000 vintage right now.