Daniel

[mikec]

Allison and I went to Daniel for dinner this past Friday.  We were celebrating a combination of things, our anniversary, Hanukah, and what’s left of our social life for the next few months (Allison is due in a couple of weeks).  We had been going back and forth about where to eat for our anniversary for a while and eventually settled on Daniel.

We arrived a few minutes early for our reservation.  The Host told us that our table was ready, but we elected to sit in the lounge/bar area for a few minutes to relax with a drink.  It had been a hectic day for both of us and the few minutes that we took to decompress were helpful.  Although we didn’t get a chance to talk to him, chef/owner Daniel Boulud was making his rounds through the lounge while we were there.

Upon being seated, our captain gave us menus and explained a bit about the specials and the tasting menu options.  We perused the menu for a bit and made our selections.  The sommelier, Jean Luc le Du then paid us a visit.  We chatted for a while about the sommelier at Pierre Gagnaire with whom we had a funny experience (he is a friend of Jean Luc le Du’s).  After telling Jean Luc what we were planning to order and talking a bit about our preferences he opened the huge tome they call a wine list and pointed out a wine that he thought would work well.  I was very impressed with the service we received from Jean Luc on multiple levels.  He didn’t know much about us, but we did tell him that we had dined at Pierre Gagnaire (very expensive) and he could have made an assumption that we wanted to spend a lot of money on a bottle of wine.  I mentioned a premier cru Chablis from Dauvissat that was on the list, but he chose not to upsell me.  His choice, which I went along with, was the 97 Remi Jobard Bourgogne Blanc.

Our waiter brought out a series of amuse bouche from the chef.  There were three tiny morsels that set the stage for the meal.  The first was a Parmesan crisp with a dab of herbed goat cheese and a single pine nut.  The second dish was fried chickpeas with a touch of fennel sauce shaped into what looked like a thimble.  Last, but not least was a citrusy bite of lobster.  These tiny morsels were fabulous.  Each had incredibly clear, deep flavors for such a small bite of food.

For starters Allison had the pumpkin soup with cranberry coulis, ricotta gnocchi, and chanterelles.  The soup must have been strained two dozen times to get it so smooth.  It was absolutely delicious stuff that was topped with a drizzle of intense cranberry coulis.  My seared sea scallops with lentils, wild mushrooms and bacon appetizer was one of those dishes that I’ll remember for a long time.  Off the top of my head I can only recall one scallop preparation that bested this one.  It was at Le Cirque in Las Vegas and it involved a hefty dose of black truffles. This dish was three seared scallops over tasty lentils and mushrooms.  It’s topped with a slice of crispy, thick bacon.  Without even seeing my main course I would have gladly ordered an entrée portion of the scallops for my main course.  

Allison’s entrée was a stunning black truffle crusted cod that was served over braised endive.  Her entrée combined the meaty texture of the cod with the intoxicating scent of the truffles.  It was an inspired combination of ingredients.  I ordered the signature seas bass wrapped in potato served over syrah sauce.  The potatoes were paper thin and sautéed to the perfect crispiness.  The fish was served over leeks.  Each bite was a textural masterpiece, not forgetting that it tasted pretty good too!

I should mention something about the wine and the service at Daniel before I get to dessert.  The 1997 Remi Jobard Bourgogne Blanc was the perfect accompaniment to this meal.  The Chardonnay was crisp with green apples, yet still had a decent body that allowed it to stand up to the rich fish dishes better than a Chablis might have done.  When I was discussing the wine choice with the sommelier, he never wavered.  He was perfectly happy to help us chose another wine if we so desired, but he felt strongly that the Jobard was the wine for us that evening.  He was absolutely correct.  

The level of food and wine service should be mentioned too.  Before we ordered the wine I made a quick mention to the sommelier that my wife was pregnant and would only be having a few tastes of the wine throughout the meal.  That was my only mention of her pregnancy.  Even though several different people poured our wine for us, they never tried to overfill my wife’s glass even though in different circumstances it might be appropriate.  I appreciated the fact that I didn’t have to constantly ward off an overly enthusiastic wine server.  The food service was perfect.  My standard of service is that of the Danny Meyer restaurants.  It is usually impossible to meet that standard, yet the service at Daniel met it easily.  The service was the perfect combination of formal French service combined with an easy going air that made the service feel comfortable instead of stiff.

The dessert menu was set up perfectly for Allison and me.  They split the menu in half.  One side was for the fruit related desserts and the other side was dedicated to the chocolate desserts.  I usually prefer something with fruit in it, but Allison is a chocolate lover.  Mostly because she couldn’t decide between two chocolate desserts, I ordered Daniel’s version of the molten chocolate cake while Allison ordered a chocolate sampler.  Both were outstanding.

It was an exquisite meal that I will remember for a long time.

[Wilfrid]

I am impressed that you took on Daniel with your wife only a couple of weeks from the big day.  I remember the last dinner I had with my partner before she delivered - it was at the Gramercy Tavern, and although it was three or four weeks before her due date, the poor staff looked distinctly nervous.  Also, we had by then adopted the practice of carrying a vast bag full of assorted cushions into restaurants so she could make herself comfortable - which made us appear a little eccentric to anyone who didn't notice her bulge.

Sounds like your valour was repaid by a great meal.

(Edited by Wilfrid at 4:27 pm on Dec. 17, 2001)

[Bux]

I'm equally impressed that your wife was really willing and able to enjoy the meal. The thought's occurred to me that a meal of that sort should have a better effect on the baby's outlook on life than countless hours of playing Beethoven recordings. ;)

[Steve Plotnicki]

Mike - That sounds like a great experience. Jean- Luc is the greatest. Except when you have to bid against him at wine auctions. He has "Le Grand Budget." I always find the service at all of Daniel's restaurants to be top notch. But my best experience was the following.

Four of us were having dinner there for a birthday celebration and on the tasting menu was a Loin of Veal that was served atop a puree of some green vegetable. We couldn't tell what the vegetable was but it was absolutely delicious. So I asked our captain if we could have the recipe. About ten minutes later he approached our table and said "can you please follow me" He proceeded to march the four of us right into the kitchen. All of a sudden we were standing at the head of the line shaking hands with Daniel. People and plates of food were flying all around us.  We asked him about the puree and it turned out to be nothing more than Fava Beans mixed with olive oil and mashed to that consistancy. One more story where simple is better. But it was an amazing experience and certainly a great way to make your customers feel special.

[Wilfrid]

While on the subject of Daniel, I have just seen in Crains that he is opening a cabaret room:

http://www.crainsny.com/news.cms?newsId=2003

[Bux]

One more story where simple is better.

That's interesting because I think of Boulud as a chef who can fine tune a melange of dozens of seemingly dissimilar ingredients so that the end product appears quite simple. Of course, to do that successfully one needs to know when one ingredient is enough.

I think your experience that night, while perhaps unexpected, is not atypical of the way the staff shows an interest in diners who show a great interest in the food. It might have been too obvious to rave about the veal, but to show pleasure in the simple bean puree meant you really loved the food. At least that's my take on the restaurant and staff. Underneath all that glitter, caviar and creativity, lies the best bistro in America and that's meant as a supreme compliment to the waiters, kitchen and Daniel Boulud.

[mikec]

Wilfrid & Bux:

My wife has been a trooper so far.  We have a little less than five weeks to go at this point.  Bux's point about the effect of the meal on the baby made me laugh.  I never thought about it, but the baby seems to kick when my wife eats something sweet.  Maybe Daniel will have an effect. :)  Although with my luck, the baby will refuse formula and hold out for truffle sauce. ;)

Steve:

Great story about going back into the kitchen at Daniel.  We had a similar experience at Po a few years ago when it was still owned by Mario Batali.  We've eaten at Po often.  However when we first tried it, Allison loved the white bean ravioli in balsamic and brown butter so much that she asked the waiter how it was made.  The waiter disappeared for a minute and when he came back he asked my wife to come with him.  After about five minutes I was wondering where she was but I didn't think too much about it.  I figured she was writing down a recipe.  I got up and went to the bathroom.  If you know the layout at Po, the bathroom is across from the kitchen.  I was about to walk into the bathroom when I looked in the kitchen.  There was Allison in front of the stove, pan in hand, with Mario himself at her side teaching her how to make the dish.  I'll never forgot it.  

I don't always make use of the sommeliers services when we eat out.  However, when I do I have usually been very pleased.  Jean Luc impressed me quite a bit.  

Take care,

Mike

[SamanthaF]

Mike,

There is an earlier thread that my Husband posted called "An Englishman in NY" - this is a food diary of our visit in November this year - we also went to Daniel and loved it.

[jaybee]

Given a choice, which?

If chef isn't cooking for you, what to order that's "don't miss?"

[ajay]

I believe Daniel (as opposed to cafe boloud on 76th st) has stopped serving lunch. This fact seems to be confirmed by the website www.danielnyc.com. But that may have changed. Call the restaurant and find out. In general, I"m inclined to have a blow out meal at lunch rather than dinner especially when dinning at a place like Daniel because I'm unlikely to get a table before 9:00 !

As to sure things, I understand that the bass in the potato shell with red wine sauce (not sure if it's barolo or syrah) is a very safe way to go as the kitchen has been making it for quite some time.

Do report back if you go.

[Damian]

Syrah, and it is a wonderful dish. Hard to go wrong at Daniel, the two times I've gone I've had dishes that simply struck me dumb with pleasure. Next time I'd be tempted by their seasonal offferings I think.

[R Washburn]

Daniel does not serve lunch anymore.

when dinning at a place like Daniel because I'm unlikely to get a table before 9:00

If you are willing to take the first seating (~6 PM) those reservations are easy to come by. If not, call one month in advance to the day for that 8PM reservation. I happen to like the first seating.

Robert

[Bux]

I used to like lunch very much. It always seemed more relaxed than dinner and reservations were far easier to get. That was true on 76th Street as well as on 65th Street. This is not to say I don't like dinner, but I miss lunch.

[anil]

......... but I miss lunch.

Were you not involved in the development of their website ? or am I mistaken ?

[Bux]

Were you not involved in the development of their website ? or am I mistaken ?

Yes. I laid out the original desgn, but the revisions and updates have been handled in house for some time.

[yvonne johnson]

Dinner last week-end at Daniel (60 E. 65, 288-0033). Roughly two weeks in advance, I obtained a table for three in the lounge area (a space a few steps from the bar that fits around 6 tables). When making the reservation, and later on the phone to ask about the menu, the staff were unhurried, kind and informative. This was in contrast to what we found on passing though the revolving door. First, a stern-looking staff member asked us to check our coats at the cloakroom on the left where there was a build-up of people. Second, down the steps and into the large hall where there is big desk with three maitre d's none of whom seemed to know what the other was doing. After some dilly-dallying we were seated.

Rough patches in service continued into the meal. But first, the amuse: a very strong Parmesan crisp; nice tuna tartare, and the third looked and tasted like a tiny mound of red vegetable (cabbage?) with a sprinkle of blue cheese (I'm now doubting my memory, but this was less successful).

We chose to go for a tasting menu:

L'ARTICHAUT ET LE FOIE GRAS

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with a Foie Gras Crostini and a Black Truffle-Parmesan Cream

This arrived before our wine and we asked that the soup be returned till our wine arrived.

This was a very fine thick soup. Our waiter suggested a pinot gris by the glass for the soup. It turned out to be very sweet and not a great match.

The thread "dining karma" comes to mind because, as our chum noted, there seemed to be a pace & manner the restaurant had which didn't satisfy us. And there was a bit of a struggle for control. Interestingly (or maybe not--the great Seymour Britchky said making a complaint early on if warranted might turn things around), as a result of putting our foot down about the timing of our first course things improved immensely.

LE "BLACK BASS" ET LA SYRAH

Paupiette of Black Sea Bass in a Crisp Potato Shell with Tender Leeks and a Syrah Sauce

This signature dish has been written about here before. The flakes of fish were silky. I wondered whether there was a touch of goose fat between the fish and the thin slices of potato encasing it. This was a lovely balanced dish.

1 half bottle of Morey Roumier

LA GROUSE ET LE CHOU (we requested this substitution)

Wild Scottish Grouse with Foie Gras and Porcini, "Compotée of Savoy Cabbage

and Turnips, Chestnuts and Salsify "Au Jus Truffé"   

Another hit. The grouse was well hung, and rare.

Bottle Vieux Telegraph, Chateauneuf du Pape. I don't have full details about this one, but it was spicy and fruity and worked great with the grouse.

Cheese course (additional request)

Our waiter selected 6 chesses, some French, some domestic. The Reblochon and a goat were exceptional and all the cheeses were far superior to those at Artisanal.

Desserts (We were given 4 in total, and they included these)

LE CHOCOLAT NOIR ET LA PISTACHE

Hot Chocolate Upside-Down Soufflé with Pistachio Ice Cream

LE DUO DE CHOCOLAT ET PRALINE

Chocolate and Praline Cream Millefeuille with Caramelized Hazelnuts

Coffee Ice Cream with Chocolate Granité and White Chocolate Mousse

Overall, once things got into the swing we enjoyed the meal very much. Would I go back? The main dining room, from a glance, felt heavy and not unlike an old ocean liner's ballroom. The lounge area where we were is literally thread-bare around the edges in places and the background music was truly awful. From what I've read, I think I'd be far more inclined to go to Café Boulud next time around. Our chum felt that the wine list did not offer an adequate range of moderately priced wines, which suggested a mistaken (?)view that with expensive, classical French food one must have expensive wine--something not promulgated by the French. Our friend also thought that the staff play up the French act a bit much--over-doing the accents and whatnot.

Oh, nearly forgot: Yes, Boulud did the rounds last week, and he shook my hand. I have not, of course, washed it since.

[Previous write ups: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...&f=4&t=4216&hl=

Restaurant's web site: ]http://danielnyc.com/daniel.html]

[Sandra Levine]

A fine report, Yvonne. May I be so bold as to askwhat the damages were?

[yvonne johnson]

$820.38 (including tax & tip, & 3 pre-dinner Daniel brut, 3 digestifs. I see they gave us the cheese plate on the house. The Vieux Telegraphe ($143) pushed it up quite a bit. The three tasting menus came to $315).

I wouldn't call it cheap.

[Beachfan]

I reserve my big lunches for

1)places that do special prix fixe for lunch, such as Bouley and/or

2) days that I'm going to the theatre.

If the $$ and available time are comparable, I choose dinner.

[GordonCooks]

Does anyone know how I can get a current copy of Daniel's wine list ? I've checked his website without luck.

[Beachfan]

All I can think of is call them and see if they can email you a version. Some restaurants have them in pdf format (you'll need Adobe Acrobat software I think).

[GordonCooks]

I was thinking of calling but I'm not sure if they would be comfortable filling such a request. I'll give it a shot.

[mikeczyz]

did it work?

mike

[Bux]

Having laid out their original web site and having discussed the idea of putting the wine list on the site, I'm guessing they will not be amenable to filling your request. Admittedly, one reason for not putting up the list is that it requires some work to keep the list up to date. Revising the menus is enough of a head ache, if you take it seriously. Nevertheless, I don't believe that was their primary reason for not publishing the list on the web.

I curious to know why someone would want to have the list and why a restaurant might be inclined not to publish it's list. I believe Veritas had, or has, it's entire list on the web.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Many people want to see a restauarnt's list in advance so they can call ahead and have them open wines in advance of their visit. I've done that with Veritas among other restaurants in the past where they have opened bottles for me up to six hours ahead of time. Most places will do that with a credit card number.