quatre jours en paris

[Gary Marshall]

The Eurostar hit Paris about 2.30 on Thursday afternoon, our last gastronomic trip to Paris a couple of years ago was looking back a rather extravagant affair, 4 nights in paris taking in the bargains that were Guy Savoy and Tour D’Argent, followed by dinner and then lunch in London. At Gordon Ramsay RHR.

This time it was going to be more restrained I thought, cut back on the taxis and seek out a bit of dining value/comfort food (to keep mrs marshall on side). So although swiftly off the train and in a prime position for the taxi queue we went the other way towards the metro, straight into the gendarmes cordoning off the coffee house and a blatantly forgotten briefcase. That sealed it we wanted out of gare du nord asap.

We shot undeeground to the metro to be faced with a long queue, after about 15 milliseconds of queuing my fear of the briefcase bomb had subsided and we gave up the economy drive and took out rightful place, at the back of the taxi rank, the irony also being our hotel, which we’d stayed in before and knew exactly where it was, is but a stumble from st placide metro, which is where we headed for, a short 20e rather than the 2.60e on the metro!

This was not the first time our economy drive proved bad value. Our traditional first night in paris is always based around a bottle of red & steak and bearnaise sauce. I had decided fairly abitrarily on ‘Chez Henri’ au moulin a vent. On the map it didn’t look far from quai de tournelle an area I knew, so again patting ourselves on the back at our frugalness, we eschewed the usual taxi and set off to the tube and our destination jusseau.

After once finding myself at the station in chantilly about 10 miles from my hotel which I couldn’t remember the name of, and with only my friends mobile, telephone numberasa contact, which was switched off, I learned never venture out without the name & number of my hotel plus name and address & phone of my desinatation. Plus a map. Preferably one with your intended location on it. Unfortunately as we wandered further and further through the backstreets it became increasingly clear we were no where near the comforting banquettes of chez henri . We were lost, it was getting dark and we all dressed up and looking very out of odds with our neighborhood. Our map was proving next to useless, even if I could read it in the fading light.

Ever so slightly panicing, we headed north and eventually hit a main road and a metro. Somehow we’d wandered rather than northwards, two stops further south, no worries we still had time and we went back on the metro. Or we would have done had there been a metro to catch. After 10 minutes of waiting for the train that the sign said was only 3 minutes away and various un-understandable announcements, we gave up and headed back to the street.

Taxi was the only option now after a quick call to the restaurant to assure them we were definitely coming. We missed a few, it started to rain, then with the devil may care attitude of a man definitely at the end of his teather and in need of a strong drink, I managed to run across 4 lanes of mad parisian traffic and grab, nay, throw myself at a taxi.

Phew! Eventually at Chez Henri the taxi driver was apologetic to have to charge us the minimum 5e. I would happily have paid 50e!

Once inside the world suddenly took a turn for the better. A small convivial restaurant with a zinc bar in the corner banquettes down the sides and plenty of awards for the quality of their meat and beaujolais on the wall. A couple of coupes to start and a charcuterie assiette to get things going along with a bottle of moulin a vent. The charcuterie came as a serve yourself selection, a sharpish knive chopping board and 4 sausages of varying provenance, including chorizo and an andouillette looking one. I happily tried to cut off delicate slices and ended up with err chunks, quelle horreur!

Steaks featured heavilly on the menu (full of old school classics) I had the old favourite and sarah broke with tradition and had steak au poivre. They came cooked as requested with a nice charred crust and some ‘cubes of chips’ that certainly tasted like they’d been cooked in animal fat. mmmm.

The stress of the journey prompted another bottle, and deserts which was a tarte tatin pour moi and choccy mousse pour madame.

Coffee and calva and after the hassle, the most welcome sight of a pre-ordered taxi finished the night off. It wasn’t cheap, especially given they’d charged for two charcuteries when we requested only one but I couldn’t be bothered to point it out, we had a very pleasant evening and been looked after well.

However I did feel a bit better when I re-read the bill the day after we’d only been charged for one bottle of wine, of course i will be sending them the money.....

Next installment mon veil ami………

cheers

gary

[Bux]

I enjoyed that all, especially as I didn't have to actually endure being lost without a map and late for dinner. One of the best pieces of advice I've ever been given was the suggestion, or perhaps "instruction", from a friend living in Paris at the time, to purchase a Paris par Arrondissement, or a small book containing maps of Paris by arrondissement and an alphabetical list of streets with coordinates. We're on our third one right now as Paris has continued to be developed and redeveloped since our initial visit. The initial purchase was made on the basis of which publisher offered the clearest maps. As I don't ever leave the hotel room without it, the last purchase was of the lightest and thinnest version on the market. I see that the sticker says it was less than five euros and well worth the price and the weight in my pocket. Certainly worth the price of the cab fares it saved. When our daughter took a term off from college to live in Paris, it was the most important thing we gave to her. She said she was never without it in her pocket. Every taxi driver has a copy, although not always a pocket version.

What I enjoyed most however, was how a pleasant dinner saved the day. I have so many memories of our early travels in France when the day was snatched from misery by a lovely dinner before my head hit the pillow at night. That "The stress of the journey prompted another bottle," reminded me so much of the evening my wife neglected to account for the fact that I was forced to make a turn because a one way street went against us as we were driving through some town and therefore assumed we were headed south and not east as we were, as we left town. A map is useful only if you can determine exactly where you are. We arrived hours late at our destination hotel and most of the diners were well into dinner then and close to finishing when we sat down to dinner. In the last two hours of driving on dirt roads lost in the dark (and no taxis to fall back on) I had lost not only my appetite, but ability to smile. I ordered some soup and an appetizer. That potage was an excellent restorative and the wonderful friture de la Loire that followed was magical. When the waitress returned to take our dessert order, I asked for the guinea hen and a half bottle of the local Chinon. All to her amusement and delight.

[Scott]

When the waitress returned to take our dessert order, I asked for the guinea hen and a half bottle of the local Chinon. All to her amusement and delight.

Bravo!

[Bux]

Day two of Gary Marshall's journal is in the Mon Vieil Ami thread and equally enjoyable reading.

[John Talbott]

I hesitate to differ with Bux, and maybe it's my age and eyesight but I find the #11 Michelin booklet - Paris Atlas 1 cm:100 m more readible. Where Paris Par Arrondissement is indispensible is in the suburbs where it helps to also have the appropriate RATP Map (numbers 4 to about 12 covering each direction, ie Ouest, Nord-Ouest, etc).

[Hest88]

Off-topic: may I ask what hotel you were staying at?

[menton1]

I hesitate to differ with Bux, and maybe it's my age and eyesight but I find the #11 Michelin booklet - Paris Atlas  1 cm:100 m more readible.  Where Paris Par Arrondissement is indispensible is in the suburbs where it helps to also have the appropriate RATP Map (numbers 4 to about 12 covering each direction, ie Ouest, Nord-Ouest, etc).

I have a 3rd choice which is my favorite: Paris Pratique, a wonderful booklet with all the maps of every arrondisement with the fold running down the middle of each arr. Small enough to fit in a handbag, has some bus and metro maps as well. Also, importantly, it has EVERY street and little alley included. I've seen some maps that eliminate the smaller streets.

[ann]

Menton1, is your recommendation easily available in Paris? Thanks for the help.

[BDWiener]

I have a more practical, grammatical question arising from this post and the next one.

Est-ce que c'est "en Paris" ou "a Paris?"

Et pourquoi?

Thanks,

Ben

[ann]

A Paris mais en France. Because the rule is that "à" is used with the names of cities and countries which are masculine while "en" is used with countries which are feminine. At least this is what I remember from my college French.

Edited April 15, 2004 by ann (log)

[Gary Marshall]

Off-topic: may I ask what hotel you were staying at?

we stayed at the holiday inn st germain des pres.

i've stayed there before and got a good rate a couple of years ago about £60 per night. This time expedia et al were quoting £90-100 per night.

i re-checked the holidayinn website and got it for 99e per night which looked good value for the hotel. It's nothing special but fits our needs.

there was a nice looking one next door hotel abbaye gregoire (after the street it's on)

gary

[Scott]

Off-topic: may I ask what hotel you were staying at?

we stayed at the holiday inn st germain des pres.

I stayed there about a month ago, nice tidy place, very friendly staff and about 20 yards from St Placide Metro.