Shanghai Pavilion

[SobaAddict70]

For dinner one night I called a day ahead to order two Shanghai banquet specialties that require advance notice. Beggar's chicken...is a famous dish in which the bird is boned, stuffed with pork and preserved vegetables, rubbed with spices and encased in clay. It is then baked and, with appropriate ceremony, delivered to the table. The host, Simon Wu, broke the seal, and a wonderful aroma of chicken, ginger and rice wine wafted over the table. The chicken itself was fabulous.

Shanghai Pavilion (Eric Asimov) (from Wednesday's DIGEST update. You may have to scroll down for the relevant link.)

Chef Zong Xin-tu, formerly of Joe's Shanghai (Flushing), offers a fresh new look at Shanghai cuisine at Shanghai Pavilion. Note that the restaurant is a reincarnation of a branch of Evergreen Shanghai.

Shanghai Pavilion

1378 Third Avenue at 79th Street

(212) 585-3388

Has anyone yet been?

Soba

[mascarpone]

Yesterday I called to make a lunch reservation for four at Shanghai Pavilion (1378 Third Avenue/ 79th Street). In addition to the reservation, I requested an order of the Shanghai specialty: Beggar's Chicken. I was told that Beggar's Chicken was sold out through May. After requesting the Eight Treasures Duck, another specialty of the house that requires advance notice, I was again given the same answer.

Upon arrival, several members of the group commented that the decor was fancy. When one of the group ordered tea, a single cup (western-style ceramic tea cup with handle, and accompanying saucer) filled with tea was delivered. Only after other members of the table requested tea was a pot presented with two additional western-style ceramic tea cups and saucers. The absence of the usual pot of tea and handle-less tea cups was a bit of a shock to those of the group used to authentic chinese dining.

As we looked at the menu, one memeber observed that, although the restaurant was Shanghai-nese, the menu offered several Szechuan-style dishes. For starters, we ordered two cold appetizers: Seaweed with Tangerine Peels and Shanghai Salted Duck, as well as one hot appetizer: Crispy Quails.

Although atypical for a Shanghai-style cold seaweed appetizer, Seaweed with Tangerine Peels was one of the highlights of the meal. Consisting of five different types of finely sliced (shaved) seaweed mixed with equally finely sliced tangerine peels, sesame oil, sesame seeds, and a sparing amount of reddish-hot pepper, the appetizer was very interesting due to the combination of the seaweed's flavor and texture, with the citrus, sesame flavor, and hint of hot pepper. It is also possible that in addition to the sesame oil, another spicy oil was used to give the dish a subtle kick.

Second to arrive was Shanghai Salted Duck. One member of the group reacted with apprehension when the duck appeared to be undercooked. Ultimately, however, the duck was quite pleasant.

Crispy Quails, clearly deepfried - yet not heavily breaded or battered - as one member observed by an aroma similar to french fries, was successful in the suprising tenderness of the quail meat. This was another standout in its delicacy and thus a far cry from KFC.

Also ordered was the Minced Chicken with Medium Seeds Soup. The "medium seeds" - orange, soft, minature, yam-like ovals, added a contrasting sweet flavor to the creamy, white broth and the grainy texture of the chicken. Again, these subtle flavors proved somewhat surprising.

Next to arrive was a seafood main course. The Jumbo Shrimps with Roasted Garlic were served in a dark, garlic sauce with miniature steamed vegetables that I could not identify (miniature bok choy ?). The quantity of the shrimp and vegetable was small and it was served on a large white platter. This dish reminded me of my entre at Citarella Restaurant...a tiny, exquisite piece of fish in the middle of a huge white plate (After dinner at Citarella, I went with my date to another restaurant and had a steak). In all honesty, the shrimp was good, but not great. After the shrimp arrived, we immediately requested menus to order more food. After looking through the menu for awhile, the second main dish, Green Tea Chicken, arrived. This was a more substantial dish, so it was decided that no more food would be ordered. The Green Tea Chicken, a chef's special, consisted of thinly sliced, sauteed chicken served in a subtly flavored, and creamy textured, light-green (green) tea sauce with (green) pepper. A member of the group remarked that the dish was bland, and questioned if too much cornstarch was used. However, the other members disagreed on this cornstarch issue.

Although the four members had mixed opinions of the meal, it was agreed that the appetizers were considerably better than the main course dishes and that better Shanghai cuisine could be found at restaurants of similar genre on Bayard Street in Chinatown. However, it is quite possible that the reaction to the meal might have been different if other dishes had been ordered (e.g. Soup dumplings, bean curd dishes, casseroles, Carp's Belly, not to mention the Beggar's Chicken and Eight Treasure Duck).

The final bill came to $82 including tax and tip. No alchohol was consumed.

The service was quick and polite.

Edited April 10, 2004 by mascarpone (log)

[Pan]

I think Mascarpone covered this well. Basically, my judgment based on one meal is that if I lived within a few blocks of the place, I'd go there, but since I don't, I probably won't go there again. Yeah Shanghai is far superior, and also less expensive. As many of you know, yellow tablecloths and such-like really don't impress me, though something other than formica and glary fluorescent lights (a la Moon House) can be nice.

[VivreManger]

Since beggar's chicken is not something normally found in my neighborhood and since I won't be around Chinatown this trip, I decided to call and reserve the beggar's chicken for a meal this weekend. After all beggar's chicken-eaters can't be choosers.

Despite mascarpone's experience I was able to book the chicken less than a week in advance. I asked about the May difficulties and the reservation clerk claimed there had been no problem with getting it during this past month. Perhaps the problem is lunch as opposed to dinner??

I will report upon my return.

Edited June 1, 2004 by VivreManger (log)

[Pan]

I asked about the May difficulties and the reservation clerk claimed there had been no problem with getting it during this past month. Perhaps the problem is lunch as opposed to dinner??

Or perhaps they were just being weird in April. Or whatever. Good luck with your meal.

[mjr_inthegardens]

has anyone ever attempted to make beggar's chicken at home either in clay or salt dough?

-Mjr

[VivreManger]

Plans changed and I have had to cancel my dinner at Shanghai Pavillion so I won't be adding any comment soon.