Cafe Lago

[Wilson]

We went there a couple nights ago for the first time in six or seven years. It was very different from what I remembered, which was a dark and intimate (o.k., cram-packed) place with really tasty food. This Cafe Lago was bigger and it has a black-and-while linoleum floor, with spartan looking walls and the requisite '90s glass block windows. All that was missing was buzzing flourescent lights.

I was looking around and wondering whether I'd see software geeks hunched over their laptops, connected to the Internet via wireless access points. To put it differently, it's a cold space. Now, I've had the good fortune to eat good Italian food in Italy, and the places I went to were organized on a human scale. The faux-industrial look is (at least where I went) absent in Italy.

But hey, we're really here for the food and the service. The service was excellent, once we got past the maitre d', who ushered us to a microscopic table equidistant from two large family groups each with an infant. That's o.k., I guess, because Cafe Lago isn't a terrifically upscale place of the type where bringing an infant would be an act of hostility. But there weren't many people, so I asked the maitre d' (maitress d'? a female) for a different table and was asked to wait for a couple minutes while they decided if they could reseat us in this cavernous and three-fourths empty space.

Evidently the manager approved our request and we were reseated. Our waiter was excellent. We really liked the service and we liked him, which at the end you will see reflected in the tip. My companion had a green salad and a pizza, and I had a Caesar salad and lasagna described on the menu as light and unique. My compansion has been eating like a bird lately so we took half the pizza with us, boxed with no attitude at all. What I tasted was very good.

My Caesar was probably the worst Caesar salad I've ever paid for. It reminded me of efforts by my father, who never met a garlic bulb he didn't want to clone, and whose stance on Worcestershire sauce was if a little is good then why not a quart? I was literally tasting it a full day later. But the lasagne was out of this world. It lived up to the billing on the menu. Light and airy, such that I felt as if it was filled with whipped ricotta. The tomato sauce was bright red and tasted like it. Truly inspired.

We had a nice Italian white wine by Zenato with lots of fruit in it, and of course coffee afterwards. Our bill was $69. Tax brought it to $75. Tip for our pleasant and attentive waiter brought it to $90. We won't be going back, and I'm really sorry to write that given how much we liked our waiter. But the salad was terrible, and the space was a baby step above a 7-Eleven. O.K., I exaggerate, but I've rarely been to a restaurant where the decor was so out of step with the cuisine as this one. And someone needs to fix that Caesar. It's lethal.

[ScorchedPalate]

We actually were heading to Cafe Lago last night, and ended up next door at Grady's Grillhouse instead.

You're now the third person in a week to say how amazing the lasagne is... I am gonna have to get me some of that.

~Anita

[RandyB]

The ravioli - light as not-so-little pillows - are also great.

It's very noisy when full. Go in the off hours if noise bothers you.

[Wilson]

Doesn't surprise me that the place would be noisy, what with the linoleum floors, hard-edged sheetrock walls and no drop ceiling to deaden any sound. There is a cohort of people who equate noise with a "happening scene." I'm not in that cohort, being one of those curmudgeonly sorts who harbors this quaintly old fashioned idea that he'd like a little peace and quiet while he eats, and doesn't want to have to shout at his companion. So sue me ...

[seacrotty]

My $.02...

Anita and I visited Cafe Lago earlier this week and had a great dinner. I had the caesar salad and fettucine amatriciana, Anita had the insalada misto and the lasagne. We split a lemon tart afterward.

I was impressed by the pasta textures. The fettucine was obviously handmade and had a nice, delicate tooth, and the sauce was spicy and yummy. The lasagne could have been served as a dessert -- it was that light, fluffy, and composed, if that word makes any sense in this context to anyone but myself.

The caesar salad was not a by-the-book rendition, but it was tasty. The misto was unremarkable. The lemon tart was actually tart, not sickly-sweet, which instantly won points with us.

The wines by the glass were good, and kudos to whoever wrote their wine menu -- I really felt like I knew something about how the wine was going to taste before I ordered it, and the reality generally matched the descriptions. This was especially welcome as I am shamefully ignorant about Italian wine beyond the most basic varietals. The by-the-bottle pricing is a little odd, though: $35 for a bottle that goes for $7/glass either means that you're getting a steal if you order by the glass, or practically no discount if you order by the bottle. Given the quality of the wines we ordered (and Washington alcohol prices in general), I suspect the latter. Can anyone confirm or deny?

Service was attentive and professional. The waiter won points after serving Anita a glass from a newly-opened bottle that had gone off. We called him over and explained that something didn't smell right; he took one whiff and said, "Yep. That's corked. Would you like this one or something else?" She had a fresh glass within seconds. Nothing heroic, mind you, but nice to see the proper response without a lot of histrionics.

Definitely a noisy, open space, but not uncomfortable. However, I can see how someone expecting a cozy leetle Italiano joint would be put off. This is not that restaurant!

Anyway, the price was reasonable: salads, entrees, dessert, four glasses of wine and a fat tip for our server came in just under $100 if memory serves. We'll return, I'm sure.

c

edited for typo. arg. i is an english major.

Edited February 6, 2004 by seacrotty (log)

[reesek]

seacrotty - i think you're right - that math doesn't make sense. a bottle of wine is 22.5 oz - so we're talking 4 & 1/2 average (5 oz) glasses per bottle - meaning that a $7 glass would be $31.50 by the bottle...not a huge discount - but it should never be cheaper to buy in small units. (haven't they heard of costco?!)

the only variable is glass size - if memory serves - they use (what i call) juice glasses - right? (not stemware?) those w/b about 5 oz. if the glasses are bigger than 5 oz -- you guessed it - it's an even better deal to buy by the glass.

someone should tell them...

edit - learn to read people's names better rk

Edited February 6, 2004 by reesek (log)

[seacrotty]

the only variable is glass size - if memory serves - they use (what i call) juice glasses - right? (not stemware?) those w/b about 5 oz.  if the glasses are bigger than 5 oz -- you guessed it - it's an even better deal to buy by the glass.

Actually, Lago does use stemware, which I wholeheartedly applaud. It's cheapie restaurant stuff, but it does the job. I have a long rant about being served even moderately nice wine in a f-&*%$-ing juice glass, but 1) I'm not [sTUMBLING] naming [GOAT] names and 2) that's another thread.

I dunno -- it's possible that we got a screaming deal on our wine, but the math seems squirrelly to me. We certainly liked the place enough that it wasn't a super big issue.

c

Edited for clarity. You'd think that I'd read these things before I post them.

Edited February 7, 2004 by seacrotty (log)

[MsRamsey]

Actually, Lago does use stemware, which I wholeheartedly applaud. It's cheapie restaurant stuff, but it does the job. I have a long rant about being served even moderately nice wine in a f-&*%$-ing juice glass, but 1) I'm not [sTUMBLING] naming [GOAT] names and 2) that's another thread.

Cassis does that too. That's the only thing I don't really like about the place.

[reesek]

that must have been what i was thinking.

i have one word for places that do that - ikea.

[tighe]

Actually, Lago does use stemware, which I wholeheartedly applaud. It's cheapie restaurant stuff, but it does the job. I have a long rant about being served even moderately nice wine in a f-&*%$-ing juice glass, but 1) I'm not [sTUMBLING] naming [GOAT] names and 2) that's another thread.

Cassis does that too. That's the only thing I don't really like about the place.

So does Harvest Vine....

[tsquare]

It's cheapie restaurant stuff, but it does the job. I have a long rant about being served even moderately nice wine in a f-&*%$-ing juice glass, but 1) I'm not [sTUMBLING] naming [GOAT] names and 2) that's another thread.

Actually, I think they switched to stemware some time ago (maybe when the partnership broke up? She's there/he's gone, kind of.)

I overheard the Owner of another fine restaurant talking to his bartender the other day. They are switching stemware at their place. Going from 5 oz. pours to 3 - 3 1/2. Makes the math work better, though their by the glass price dropped a bit as well. Small plates, small glasses...a trend?

[thelastsupper]

Actually, Lago does use stemware, which I wholeheartedly applaud. It's cheapie restaurant stuff, but it does the job. I have a long rant about being served even moderately nice wine in a f-&*%$-ing juice glass, but 1) I'm not [sTUMBLING] naming [GOAT] names and 2) that's another thread.

Cassis does that too. That's the only thing I don't really like about the place.

So does Harvest Vine....

Cassis only serves in tumblers if you get house wine I believe, though a kir also comes in a tumbler.

As for Harvest Vine, it's sort of a traditional taverna thing to serve wine in chatos. It made me happy.

[ScorchedPalate]

  I'm not [sTUMBLING] naming [GOAT] names

Actually, I think they switched to stemware... when the partnership broke up? She's there/he's gone, kind of.

Whoa, we hadn't heard about that. What happened, and where did he (kind of) go?

~Anita

(edited for an exceptionally lame typo)

Edited February 7, 2004 by ScorchedPalate (log)

[tsquare]

  I'm not [sTUMBLING] naming [GOAT] names

Actually, I think they switched to stemware... when the partnership broke up? She's there/he's gone, kind of.

Whoa, we hadn't heard about that. What happened, and where did he (kind of) go?

~Anita

(edited for an exceptionally lame typo)

I think it was sometime last year - but not sure.

As I understand it, they continue as friends, he didn't want to be in the daily business anymore, she wanted to continue the restaurant, he consults (there) and caters (?). That's more than I know.

(Hmm, somewhat off topic? Anyway, last meal I ate there was very good - a hot shrimp salad...I may have posted about it. The winter menu looks good as always.)

[olivina]

Hell-o everyone and thanks for the heads up on the wine price discrepancy. Clearly our math skills are not what they should be. My husband Jordi chooses the wines, writes the descriptions, is chef at Lago, waxes the floors and does the books, which leaves me time to search eGullet for interesting topics. Sometimes I am pizza chef on the lineat night, so come and say hi if you are in Lago.

Carla

[reesek]

welcome olivina/carla!

[Fish]

Hell-o everyone and thanks for the heads up on the wine price discrepancy. Clearly our math skills are not what they should be. My husband Jordi chooses the wines, writes the descriptions, is chef at Lago, waxes the floors and does the books, which leaves me time to search eGullet for interesting topics. Sometimes I am pizza chef on the lineat night, so come and say hi if you are in Lago.

Carla

Hey Carla

Your pizza dough is sublime ! It's the only restaurant pizza I'll eat - excellent ! I was the freak who stopped by a few months ago and asked to check out the dough.

For those who haven't been to Lago, it rules. We're there every other week or so, and usually order the veggie antipasto plate (plenty for four) plus a few other goodies: favourites include the fabulous steak, the lasagna (amazing) and, of course, the pizzas. Ahh, the pizzas. Some of you may have come to the pizza party last summer over at chez Really Nice! - that's the level of pizza I expect, and Lago is the only place that delivers it. Thin delicious crust, tasty tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil, fired in a not-too-shabby dome oven. If you haven't been, get over there.

- S

[MsRamsey]

I'm a new fan of Cafe Lago, having been there twice in the last month. I had the delicious, ethereal pizza last night for the first time. Husband had the lasagne last night (his first visit). The City of Seattle Eggplant appetizer is served with a spicy, smoky red sauce (reminiscent of chipotle) and a wedge of creamy goat cheese. It was the best eggplant I've had in years. The Lemon Tart is creamy and delicious, and I understand is a new version of the Lemon Tart they've been serving for a long time (thanks in part to Fish [the eGullet member, not the aquatic vertebrate]). It's served with a quenelle of dense whipped cream that has no sugar added and goes brilliantly with the tart/sweet lemon. We loved everything. The menu is simple and the flavors so fresh and well thought out. Carla and the staff couldn't be more gracious.

[elswinger]

I will finally be trying Cafe Lago for dinner tomorrow night (had they been open for lunch I would have tried them long ago). I hope their pizza is as great as I've heard. Tutta Bella is good but it's a long busride for someone who lives in Wedgewood (my present home) or Ballard (my future home). It finally dawned on me why I couldn't find any pizza as good as what I used to eat as a kid in Lacey (at Luigi's Pizzaria and Shakeys). It is the wood fired oven! You can't get a good, thin, crispy crust cooking on wire racks in a gas oven.

I was hoping to check out Cafe lago's menu online before hand but for some reason the Amazon menu site doesn't have any menus anymore.

[MsRamsey]

Edit: Thought the menus were still available, but they seem to be gone for me too.

Edited March 24, 2004 by MsRamsey (log)

[MsRamsey]

It finally dawned on me why I couldn't find any pizza as good as what I used to eat as a kid in Lacey (at Luigi's Pizzaria and Shakeys). It is the wood fired oven!

Shakey's had a wood-fired oven?

[SeaGal]

I just tried and no menus are coming up at all. Wonder what's up?

[elswinger]

The original one in Olympia did until it burned down in the early 1980's. They also had a player piano and showed Road Runner cartoons on the wall.

[MsRamsey]

The original one in Olympia did until it burned down in the early 1980's. They also had a player piano and showed Road Runner cartoons on the wall.

I'm confused. Are you talking about the chain called Shakey's that originated in Sacramento, CA? When you say "original one in Olympia," it sounds like you're talking about a one-off pizza joint.

[elswinger]

I'm sorry for the confusion. I'm sure it was part of the same California chain. I meant original location, before it moved to West Olympia and changed to gas (then changed to Dirty Dave's Pizza). The original location in Olympia had a wood fired oven. Whether any of the California ones did in the 1960's and 1970's I don't know. But I did love the crust. It was thin and crispy.