Wine dinner

[Florida Jim]

Aperitif:

2002 Castelvero, Cortese Monferrato:

Light, refreshing stuff with just enough character to give me something to hang my hat on. Quaffing wine; no more, no less. About $9.50.

With Cauliflower soup with truffles:

2002 Broglia, Gavi “La Meirana:”

Entirely another animal from the previous wine (despite being made of the same grape), this is deeply flavored and scented with bright acidity and good cut. Sort of the Chablis of Italy. Fine with the dish. About $$14.

With Tagliolini with Porcini:

2000 Poderi Alasia, Barbera D’Asti Superiore “Rive:”

Not your Mama’s Barbera; rich, smooth and dense with a powerful fruit nose and excellent concentration. This does not carry the character of Barbera that I know but it is an interesting wine that matched the fare well. About $19.

With pheasant stuffed with truffles:

2001 Pecchenino, Dolcetto di Dogliani “San Luigi:”

Bearing more than a passing similarity to the previous wine, this softened somewhat in the mouth and was more persistent. I have had other wines from this producer that I liked better but it accommodated the food well. About $18.

With fricassee of rabbit, quail egg in pastry and potato gnocchi:

1996 Produttori, Barbaresco Riserva “Vigneti Moccagatta:”

A wine opened before its time but one of great character. Throughout the tasting it delivered hints of days to come but never opened to the point where one could capture those days. Immense potential but only fair with this dish. About $48.

With Panna Cotta:

2002 Marenco, Moscato d’Asti “Scrapona:”

WOTN and, aside from the Spinetta version of this grape, the single best Moscato I can recall. Absolutely clean and crisp with not the slightest cloying or tendency toward ginger ale or spumante; fresh, crystalline and stellar with the dessert; a breath of fresh air. About $14.

Best, Jim

[futronic]

Thanks for the notes on the Produttori del Barbaresco Moccagatta Riserva, Jim. I've got a bottle of it (and five of their other single crus) that I'll be holding onto for quite some time.

[Florida Jim]

. . . that I'll be holding onto for quite some time.

A very wise choice.

This has immense potential but not even decanting will help it at this point.

Best, Jim