Hibsicus

[Matthew Grant]

I can't believe that Hibiscus didn't have its own thread! Hibiscus deserves

its own thread!

Unfortunately I didn't take notes and a drink addled weekend means my

memories are probably less than accurate, however, I do know that we had an

outstanding meal at Hibiscus on Firday. Solid cooking enhanced by

modern touches which complimented the meal perfectly. Feta Cheese sorbet

served with a beetroot tart was exceptional, Foie gras ice cream met my

approval but Rachel is less than impressed with any savoury ice cream.

Pigeon with white beans was perfectly cooked with slices of summer truffle,

Rachel enjoyed some of the best veal I have tasted - it actually had taste

and wasn't reliant on the saucing. Other dishes of Salmon with an Orange

sauce (slightly bitter) and Sea Bass which was accompanied with a beautiful

Olive Oil. Somewhere there was an excellent smoked Cauliflower sauce/puree

(I think with the Foie Gras ice cream).

Slightly disappointing was a dessert of White Bean Panacotta which I felt

was too grainy, this was acknowledged by Claude Bosi, however, I'm not sure

if this was the effect he was trying to achieve.

The meal was exceptional value at £50 for 9 courses. Wine mark-ups were

excellent, Chateau Musar '97 was £26 and a Wither Hills Sauvignon £28.

Service was fantastic and showed up many a top London establishment. Clare

and another waitress managed 28 covers efficiently and formally whilst

managing to keep an informal air. At the end of the evening we kept Claude

and Clare talking for over an hour, I must confess to thinking that it was

Sunday the following day and that they didn't have to work, they smiled

throughout, even when showing us out of he door at 01:15am - if Clare or Claude is

reading this, please accept my apologies!

Hibiscus must be a candidate for 2 stars in the new year!

Edited August 19, 2003 by Matthew Grant (log)

[Andy Lynes]

It sounds like Claudes food has moved on somewhat in the months since my excellent meal there. Did he say where his inspirations were coming from at all, if you can remember.

Also agree, from my one meal there, that Hibiscus rates as highly as somewhere like The Fat Duck or Le Champignon Sauvage, which it more closely resembles in terms of size of restaurant and number of employees. David Everitt-Matthias was open for 13 before he got his second star, so I'm not holding my breath for next years guide, but you never know.

[Andy Lynes]

if Clare or Claude is reading this

....please fell free to chime in, we'd love to hear from you.

[Matthew Grant]

Andy, I agree that the style of food reminds me of The Fat Duck but Claude doesn't feel that it is an influence. They had an interesting list of restaurants that they had eaten at recently but I am not sure about specific influences.

I hope that they will contrinbute to the board - they are great restaurateurs

[SamanthaF]

if Clare or Claude is reading this

....please fell free to chime in, we'd love to hear from you.

Claire did tell us last year that they lurk.........

[Andy Lynes]

Lurking good, posting double good.

[Tonyfinch]

I'm puzzled by the comparison with The Fat Duck. I can't say I noticed any similarity myself. Matthew what were the similarities you found?

I plan to return to Hibiscus as soon as possible. I have to say I have no plans to return to The Fat Duck

[Andy Lynes]

Savoury ice creams and sorbets for one thing. More Fat Duck than Merchant House at least.

[Gary Marshall]

what tony said.

I like culinary ingenuity but hibiscus remains rooted in classical french cooking, not a science lab.

food certainly deserves 2 stars but i wonder if they will be held back by michelin on the non-food side of things, eg no sommelier, lack of luxury toilets?

silly things, but i get the feeling they are higher than they should be on the michelin check list.

as an all-round experience, food, wine, service, ambiance, value, close to perfection in my book

gary

[macrosan]

Lurking good, posting double good.

Posting exciting and valuable, lurking better than nothing

[Bapi]

Mathew, your post has made me a very happy bunny. We are dining there in three short weeks (I am marking the days off on my Kylie calendar) and I am really looking forward to eating at Hibiscus again. Especially so, as your post and one by wgallois on the "Help in Ludlow" thread below, indicate a marked evolution in Claude's cooking from the three meals we had there last year. Incidentally, the second meal we ate, started with THE best amuse we have ever had- a fantastic little cup of Foie Gras soup; so I would certainly be interested to taste the FG ice cream.(Hugely unsubtle hint - if indeed Claire and Claude are lurkers!)

We managed to get in for dinner, on Saturday night during the food festival. However, my cantankerous friend and his missus, with whom we are dining that night, are adamant about wanting to try the a la carte this time.( Note to all- NEVER invite single celled ameboid from Chingford to dine with you) This has resulted in myself, very magnanimously, agreeing to opt for the a la carte that night and er, um, booking in on the preceding Wednesday for the nine course tasting menu, as well.

I know, I know, its a huge burden to bear, but I am only putting myself (and bint) through this ordeal for the greater good of egullet, honest.

[Andy Lynes]

food certainly deserves 2 stars but i wonder if they will be held back by michelin on the non-food side of things, eg no sommelier, lack of luxury toilets?

silly things, but i get the feeling they are higher than they should be on the michelin check list.

If Le Champignon Sauvage is anything to go by, Hibiscus should not be held back by those things at all.

[Gary Marshall]

well here's hoping.....

and bapi, i am very envious!

gary

[Matthew Grant]

I'm puzzled by the comparison with The Fat Duck. I can't say I noticed any similarity myself. Matthew what were the similarities you found?

I plan to return to Hibiscus as soon as possible. I have to say I have no plans to return to The Fat Duck

Classical cooking with a nod to modern ideas and techniques.

By the way, my memory is slowly coming back - the Smoked Cauliflower sauce was with the scallops (I think )

[Tonyfinch]

Classical cooking with a nod to modern ideas and techniques.

Classical cooking at The Fat Duck ? Where do you consider ultra modern then?

[Bapi]

I think Mathew was writing about Hibiscus being Classical cooking with a modern twist, not the FD.

[Matthew Grant]

Thanks bapi, indeed I was talking about Hibiscus, but there are elements of the Fat Duck that are very classical as well - when I was last there one of the items was a Venison with Poivrade sauce - sure it was composed of some otherwise less classical elements (I can't remember what exactly), but the basis of the cooking has a lot of classic elements

[Gary Marshall]

T when I was last there one of the items was a Venison with Poivrade sauce - sure it was composed of some otherwise less classical elements (I can't remember what exactly),

what sherbert? Jelly Tots? Space Dust? fir tree?

[Charlene Leonard]

Space Dust?

talking of spacedust, I went mad on an internet sweet shop the other week and ended up buying 50 packets of the stuff, I have offically gone mad.

[Andy Lynes]

Are you going to cook with them, or just scoff the lot?