"al dente" a culinarilly incorrect view

[pirate]

For years I followed the the culinary wisdom dished out by endless cooks on TV and in books, I slavishly timed my dry pasta cooked at home to the dictates of the package instructions. Strangely I was never happy with with the results. The pasta was too firm. I used big pots and a huge overabundance of water. So about a year ago I decided to add 30 to 50% to the recommended cooking times and ended up with tender but not mushy pasta. So I'm culinarily incorrect. The pasta is undoubtedly not "al dente"; too soft to be called that. Rice and risotto next!

[vengroff]

That's quite amazing. I almost always cook dry pasta less than the time recommended on the package and am usually quite happy with the results.

[mcdowell]

That's quite amazing.  I almost always cook dry pasta less than the time recommended on the package and am usually quite happy with the results.

Hmmm. I'm not sure I've ever read a pasta package; I cook until it's done to my satisfaction.

[KateW]

I read the suggested cooking times on the package but usually end up taking it out sooner. I just read the package to get an idea and I check it a minute or two sooner and it's usually fine then.

[JosephB]

Not to sound arrogant, but why would the cooking instructions on the box ever factor into your determination of doneness? Just taste it.

[Craig Camp]

For years I followed the the culinary wisdom dished out by endless cooks on TV and in books, I slavishly timed my dry  pasta cooked at home to the dictates of the package instructions. Strangely I was never happy with with the results. The pasta was too firm. I used big pots and a huge overabundance of water. So about a year ago I decided to add 30 to 50% to the recommended cooking times and ended up with tender but not mushy pasta. So I'm culinarily incorrect. The pasta is undoubtedly not "al dente"; too soft to be called that. Rice and risotto next!

You of course have a right to your taste preference. However the al dente concept is mostly about taste. Pasta that is not overcooked has more flavor and is more interesting with the sauce. Perhaps your palate has adjusted to the overcooked pasta served in the USA. I assure you if you give it a chance and let your palate wake up, that al dente pasta is a much better marriage with an excellent sauce. Also you should be finishing your pasta cooking time in the pan with the sauce not in the water.

Sometimes there is a reason for rules.

As far a cooking times on packages they are very useful in giving you an idea of when the pasta should be done. Of course taste is the only sure method. However the same brand in Italy will have a recommended cooking time of about half of what it does in the USA because the additives required by the USA makes the pasta harder and it takes longer to cook. This is a useful bit of information. Pasta cooking times are useful reference points.

[slkinsey]

Just to add another point of data: different brands of pasta vary widely as to the accuracy of the recommended cooking times. I find, for example, that De Cecco pasta is almost always perfect if I have it out of the water and into the sauce 3 minutes before the recommended cooking time, and off the heat 1 minute before the recommended cooking time. I Latini, on the other hand, has ridiculously short recommended cooking times and I find that I often have to almost double the recommended time.

[Craig Camp]

Just to add another point of data: different brands of pasta vary widely as to the accuracy of the recommended cooking times.  I find, for example, that De Cecco pasta is almost always perfect if I have it out of the water and into the sauce 3 minutes before the recommended cooking time, and off the heat 1 minute before the recommended cooking time.  I Latini, on the other hand, has ridiculously short recommended cooking times and I find that I often have to almost double the recommended time.

Ditto for me on De Cecco and Latini.

It is all about taste and tasting, but the overcooked pasta loses taste like day old bread pirate.

[slkinsey]

It is all about taste and tasting, but the overcooked pasta loses taste like day old bread pirate.

For me, the acid test for long strand pasta is whether or not I can twirl it on my fork, take a bite and feel the "d-d-d-d-d-d-d-d-d" of my teeth cutting through each individual strand of pasta. Overcooked pasta does not allow one to sense the cut of each strand, and undercooked is crunchy.

[JosephB]

In addition, according to the Pasta Museum in Rome, not only is al dente pasta easier to digest, it is also more healthful. It has something to do with absorption and the way gluten is transformed by overcooking. I would give more detail, but unfortunately I have a poor memory when it comes to scientific stuff.

By the way, aside from the great collection of pasta making tools and memorabilia, the museum sucks.

[Bill Klapp]

I second Craig's assertion that al dente pasta retains significantly more flavor than overcooked pasta. Now that I think of it, isn't the same true for anything that is boiled (maybe even poached or steamed)? To be sure, unlike, say, soup, where the goal may be to have the boiled or simmered ingredients give up their flavors for the greater good of the liquid, nothing can be gained from leaving any of the pasta's flavor behind in the water. The discussion has centered on dried pasta, but the same principle applies to fresh pasta as well. "Al dente" may not be the operative term for very tender fresh pasta, but if overcooked, it all but dissolves! The point is that properly cooked pasta retains both taste and texture, so much so in Italy that sauce is used sparingly, more as a savory seasoning than the focus of the dish.

[peterpumkino]

Not to sound arrogant, but why would the cooking instructions on the box ever factor into your determination of doneness?  Just taste it.

My sentiment exactly.

There are so many factors involved in cooking pasta 'just right' that, when I first use a pasta that I don't know, I always cook a few strands prior and check them occassionally until they are al dente and then proceed accordingly. Believe me it's worth doing as I have always found the cooking times on the packet a work of fictiom

Incidentally cooking times with home made pasta is drastically decreased and, in fact, it's difficult to get it 100% right due to the nature of the pasta. Contrary tp belief home made pasta is not 'better' than store bought, just very different. So-much-so that in some restaurants in Italy have a sauce with BOTH types of pasta offered.

[Bux]

Incidentally cooking times with home made pasta is drastically decreased and, in fact, it's difficult to get it 100% right due to the  nature of the pasta.  Contrary tp belief home made pasta is not 'better' than store bought, just very different. So-much-so that in some restaurants in Italy have a sauce with BOTH types of pasta offered.

Dried pasta is also different from fresh pasta that is store bought, but not necessarily better. I make this distinction as it's possible to have homemade pasta that's dry or fresh. Even in areas where we have personal preferences, it's not necessary to believe one is better than the other. For years I made my own pasta. I suppose it was being able to have something special, not necessarily better, that was my motive, but when I tried a good brand of dried pasta again, it was like rediscovering a new aspect of food. The dried, by the way, is more reliable than my own fresh pasta.

[Adam Balic]

Craig, Bill & Peter - Most packets of pasta I have seen in Italy have cooking times for "al dente" and also "normale" which is softer to the tooth. Although, I have never eaten pasta cooked "normale" in Italy, does not the word it self suggest that this was the normal practice at some point? Also, given the hugh amount of pasta and different types of pasta is it not possible that some pasta is not best served al dente? Although I dislike it, I imagine that Pinci would be better normale, rather then al dente?

[peterpumkino]

That's a very good question. Come on Craig, answer the question, I know you're there!!

Also thanks Bux for your post - I agree wholeheartedly.

Edited July 31, 2003 by peterpumkino (log)

[Craig Camp]

Craig, Bill & Peter - Most packets of pasta I have seen in Italy have cooking times for "al dente" and also "normale" which is softer to the tooth. Although, I have never eaten pasta cooked "normale" in Italy, does not the word it self suggest that this was the normal practice at some point? Also, given the hugh amount of pasta and different types of pasta is it not possible that some pasta is not best served al dente? Although I dislike it, I imagine that Pinci would be better normale, rather then al dente?

Some brands do include this designation, but not many. As far as I can remember those having that designation are large commercial brands of no particular interest. I have never been served any pasta in Italy that was not roundly criticized by the table if it was the least bit overcooked. I just went over to my cabinet to check and out of the 9 brands of pasta in there at the moment only one has the two cooking times and I would not buy it again.

'al dente' is kind a moving target as it slightly different for different shapes.

Please remember there are a lot of bad cooks in Italy: just fewer than in other places.

One of my current favorite home brands of spaghetti is Spaghetti alla Chitarra from Garofolo in Naples. They recommend 14 minutes and it takes every minute of that to reach the al dente stage. It is packed with flavor and excellent with the uncooked tomato sauces we seem to be making everyday in order to be not overrun with the tomatoes in our garden.

[slkinsey]

One of my current favorite home brands of spaghetti is Spaghetti alla Chitarra from Garofolo in Naples.

I've always found the idea of spahgetti alla chitarra as pasta secca somewhat strange. I always make it fresh using my chitarra (which looks exactly like this).

[malcolmjolley]

I have found that removing the pasta from my water with tongs, rather than straining in a colander, improves the taste. Whatever residual water on the pasta seems to enhance the texture and taste. (I picked this up from the Naked Chef.)

[slkinsey]

I have found that removing the pasta from my water with tongs, rather than straining in a colander, improves the taste. Whatever residual water on the pasta seems to enhance the texture and taste. (I picked this up from the Naked Chef.)

This is even easier if you have a stock pot with a pasta insert.

Also, cooking the pasta in the sauce for the last two minutes -- thinning with retained pasta cooking water as necessary -- makes an even bigger difference..

[Craig Camp]

I have found that removing the pasta from my water with tongs, rather than straining in a colander, improves the taste. Whatever residual water on the pasta seems to enhance the texture and taste. (I picked this up from the Naked Chef.)

Yes, overdraining pasta is a common mistake.

[slkinsey]

Yes, overdraining pasta is a common mistake.

Although not as bad as the two most common cardinal sins: rinsing the pasta and putting oil in the pasta water.

[Craig Camp]

not as bad as the two most common cardinal sins: rinsing the pasta and putting oil in the pasta water.

...aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh