Sketch

[howardlong]

Pricing has recently been restructured to make this a more feasible experience with a degustation menu for £80.

....

http://www.sketch.uk.com/

Wow prices have come down.... When I was there it was £60-70 for a starter and £60-70 for a main.

I wonder what the wine list is like now?

Cheers, Howard

[tony h]

Sketch is good, very very good, but Pierre Gangaire wins hands down if not for the fact that you're in Paris. Its pure theatre. (plus you can afford the wine at PG, I couldnt at sketch)

[Gavin Convery]

BLH,

How does the food compare in terms of the quality..are they comparable or are you really in a different league going to Gagnaire?

[MobyP]

Gagnaire was an incredible, blissful experience - unless you talk to Jon Tseng, in which case it's only so so.

[tony h]

The food was better at PG - more inventive - sketch is no slouch & compares favourably to any of the big hitters in london or nearby - but there was something about PG which places in that area above 3 stars (just like Arzak)

[paulbrussel]

The food was better at PG - more inventive - sketch is no slouch & compares favourably to any of the big hitters in london or nearby - but there was something about PG which places in that area above 3 stars (just like Arzak)

I do fully agree with this opinion.

I have been several times to PG in Paris, and visited Sketch last November; in a way I was disappointed by Sketch which hadn't the perfection and creativity I always experienced at PG.

And Sketch is indeed far more expensive as PG.

[Gavin Convery]

Paul,

The menus have now been adjusted so I now believe Sketch will be cheaper than PG. I am going Friday so will report back as to any change in quality since I went last December.

[Suzi Edwards]

hi gavin, i'd be really keen to know how they have scaled down the menu to deal with the new price point. looking forward to hearing your thoughts.

[Gavin Convery]

Tarka,

I don't think they have, they've just reined in their profit expectations. Here is a sample on their website:

http://www.sketch.uk.com/downloads/lectureAlcMenu.pdf

Gavin

Edited May 12, 2004 by Gavin Convery (log)

[paulbrussel]

The menus have now been adjusted so I now believe Sketch will be cheaper than PG.

You are quite right: I did express myself badly. The (lunch) menu isn't more expensive at Sketch compared to PG.

The extreme prices at Sketch are for the drinks. I think I had a glass of champagne at Sketch for 25 €... The bottle of wine was expensive too, but the sommelier advised a very nice wine in the cheapest section.

(By the way: most of the staff is French, I believe.)

[Suzi Edwards]

well, finally am going to sketch tonight and as i never "wrote up" my gagnaire experiece, i'll do a compare and contrast over the weekend.

[Gavin Convery]

I went to Sketch for Dinner a couple of weeks ago, too lazy to write up. My overall impression was still good but not as enthusiastic as when I had lunch before Xmas. I sort of get the feeling that they are suffering now because of the high prices and having to cut it down to fit into the new menus. It was relatively quiet for a Friday night.

I'll be interested in your report Tarka.

[Suzi Edwards]

Sketch certainly wins on the front of house front. Never before have I been shown to my table by a fabulously beautiful girl almost wearing a tennis outfit but teamed with four in high vinyl white pumps. My French also meant that I was unable to chat with the Maitre’d of Gagnaire about Bengal cat castration, as was possible here. And, flash-back inducing carpet aside, Sketch is head and shoulders above Gagnaire in terms of interior design.

But, please, for a second, Imagine ABBA. Now strip them of their inspiration, imagination and whimsical lyrics about naval battles. It’s Bjorn Again, right? Well from a food point of view, Sketch is the culinary equivalent of a tribute band.

So much of the food looked instantly recognizable as Gagnaire. The canapés came standing perkily upright in oval dish filled with tuilles of parmesan and tomato. This was closely following by multi plate amuse of such beauty that the kitchen forgot to add any flavour. Without my camera I could not tell you of any of the food we were offered. And sadly, despite originally giving me permission to photograph, they decided to withdraw that permission soon after.

I remember staggering out of Gagnaire, stunned that a restaurant had served me one thing so disgusting (a veloute of raw sheep’s milk) that I had involuntarily “yeucked” loudly at the table and yet also had served a “soup” of foie gras and oysters, studded with lentils that, with each mouthful, made me reevaluate the meaning of the word “amazing”. Like Moby I realized that there was no way I could ever cook like this. I had no idea how he had conjured the food. And my French had deserted me, so I wouldn’t have understood if he’d told me. I staggered from Sketch wondering if I’d had my taste bubs surgically removed earlier that day without realizing it.

I’m lucky, I don’t have any qualms at all about spending sometimes frightening amounts of money for great food. I don’t mind spending large amounts of money on not so great food if the ambiance and service are good. But I really, really resent spending 500 GBP on mediocre food served by waiters who, even when I have ordered the wine, ask my partner to taste it and then mix up every single dish they bring out. I remember being surprised that Sketch didn’t get a star. Having eaten there I’m surprised it’s still open.

Here’s what we ate (all capitals, restaurant’s own)

Langoustines

Addressed in Four Ways:

Tartar, Green Apple and Grapefruit Granite.

Mousseline; Sweet Butter and Passionfruit.

Grilled; Red Currant and baby Salad

Roasted; Little Bay Peach Juice, Lentils and Shanghai Cabbage

Duck and Red Tuna

“Aiguilettes” of Duck and Girolles Mushrooms, Red Tuna Sushi

Roasted Foie Gras with Amantillado Flavoured Duck Jelly

Toasted Brioche with Mango Chutney

And then a little sneaky fish course to share

Scottish Blue Lobster

Nage of Lobster cooked with Lemon Gras, Lime and Lavender

A ‘Roudoudou” of ‘Muscat Beaumes-de-Venise’

Jersey Royal mash and Mac Wine Sabayon

Ricotta and Edible Flower Cannelloni

And then

Veal Sweetbreads

Roasted Cinnamon Infused Veal Sweatbreads

Sarawak Pepper Strawberry Syrup

Veal Kidneys and Onion Macaroni

Parmesan and Baby Leaves Salad

Filet of Beef

Heart of Fillet of Beef with a Bitter Orange Sauce

Cuttlefish Carpaccio, Sorrel Braised Black Radish, Aubergine and Girolles

And we could face spending almost 70GBP on dessert so we each had one from the list

Vanilla and Saffron Ice Cream with Crystallised Olives

Pierre Gagnaire’s Chocolate Summer 2004

[VeryApe77]

Never before have I been shown to my table by a fabulously beautiful girl almost wearing a tennis outfit but teamed with four in high vinyl white pumps.

After a start like that, the rest of the night was bound to be a disappointment.

[Gavin Convery]

Interesting report Tarka, and I can sympathise partially as my starter last time really lacked any great flavour. However the rest of the courses were fine and tasty. My lunch in Dec 2003 was staggeringly good with one of the most delicious main courses I have had.

I get the unfortunate feeling that things are slipping though and that some of the excitement has been lost from the kitchen as economics take hold.

From my point of view it is sad as I am finding it increasingly hard to find challenging new restaurants in London.

[Suzi Edwards]

i just know that i'll never go back again at those prices...

i spent the same amount at trio in chicago on sunday except there was a dollar sign not a pound one and have to say it would have been worth double. i can't think of a single fine dining place in london that i can say that about.

[Scott]

Went to sketch for lunch (lecture room) about a week and half ago.

you know what? I really enjoyed it, and found my observations somewhat at odds with what I had come to expect.

The room is a little gaudy, but the tables were so far apart that I still felt like I had been appointed New Labour's gluttony Czar.

Service was friendly and relaxed, though I suspect they were actually dressed up plate carriers.

The wine list actually had some bargains!! plus it's cheaper and better value than Hakkasan or Aikens. I know I am shocked too. recommend Joblot 2001 Givry Servoinnes at £44. lovely stuff. the mas daumas gassac blanc good, but slightly surprised the sommelier didn't know the blend.

Food:

We have the lunch menu £35, so many courses it's hard to fault their generousity. I didn't actually like too many of them, some juts had muddly, unclear flavours. A little too much middle eastern influence for me. The mains were spectacular, dover sole and lamg shoulder - stunning food. the procession of all the bits and pieces made for a fun dining experience, but the food in general was little below expectations.

We ordered some cheese for 2, and the waiter politely asked us if we knew what we were ordering and all that. I appreciated this.

£28 for 4 pieces of cheese - how dare they! I'll tell you how, it was the best cheese I have ever had. the comte was sooo nutty and complex, soft but toothsome. bravo. the roquefort was creamier than, than, than... never mind

summary:

setting kinda cool

service easy and helpful

Food: small bits and pieces sucked ass, whilst the mains and cheese historic

wine: good value

bill: pretty fair really.

can't see me going back though, there is a little theme park element that I am not sure of.

[Suzi Edwards]

We ordered some cheese for 2, and the waiter politely asked us if we knew what we were ordering and all that. I appreciated this.

£28 for 4 pieces of cheese - how dare they! I'll tell you how, it was the best cheese I have ever had. the comte was sooo nutty and complex, soft but toothsome. bravo. the roquefort was creamier than, than, than... never mind

can't see me going back though, there is a little theme park element that I am not sure of.

*checks menu*

Assortment Of Cheeses

A Selection of Cheeses from Maison Anthony & Neal's Yard, Served with Blackberry Jam, Creamed Muesli and Crackers

30GBP

...just in case anyone was wondering where they might score themselves some.

*wonders how much cheese you can buy for 30GBP in Neal's Yard. And then wonders how to cream muesli*

I'm glad you enjoyed it...maybe lunch makes you feel less like someone's been ilegally withdrawing money from your bank account :-)

[tony h]

With Capital & Tom Aikens both inconsiderately closed at the same time – I went to sketch for lunch yesterday. Oh dear. Such an inhospitable atmosphere there – yet such a buzz first time I went.

Loads if starters & things on arrival. Two types of ginger: biscuit & cake – the biscuit was adorned by a powerful aromatic mango dice which hit the nose with a definite wake up call – very interesting. The cake was just that – a little round ginger cake with a savoury hint. Fine. Accompanied with a row of thin caramelised flattened bread soldiers with two dips – soured cream & cuttlefish – the latter was unfortunately bland.

The menu is a mess & uninspiring – really, still have no idea on how to navigate or chose from it. There’s a daily lunch special of sander (?) for £22; then there the lunch menu for £35; on the second page – soup for £8; vegetable salad for £15 then three main courses all approx. £40. I really wanted the scallops which I initially though were done three ways – sadly – it was to choose which way you wanted. Plus they are served on the plate on their own – no hint of embellishments or any other kind of gastronomic fireworks. Sadly there was a list of 3 veg & 3 sauces to choose from. None appealed.

Confused – I ended up going for the set menu. 5 mini-starters arrived. There was a mackerel filet on a skewer in a cocktail glass – more curious than good; a cucumber jelly with little daubs of almond cream – pretty good; cube of raw salmon with savings of cauliflower and tiny dice of other veg – bland; foie gras custard with seriously salty jelly – this was more troubling because the bottom of the custard was wonderfully pink whereas the top half look quite oxidised and unfresh. I can’t remember the other starter.

Main course was a disaster – a single piece of veal approx 4x4x2cm (that’s being generous) with a few steamed vegetables. The great sauce couldn’t lift this dish.

Desserts, two of them, quite forgettable.

Overall – a lot of fussiness over the food for so very little impact. Room virtually empty. Also, the restaurant downstairs has closed – now just a video installation projection room. Wines are also still ridiculously expensive – my small glass of red was 13 pounds & gone in a gulp. I’m sixty quid poorer and quietly seething. Maybe I should have gone to foliage.

[Matthew Grant]

You have to fear for this Restaurant because it's prices were just more than we had/have ever seen inLondon before.

Incidentaly the downstairs restaurant has always been a gallery during the day and restaurant at night. Are you saying that it is now a permanant gallery?

[Marlyn4k]

Tony

You managed to survive the psychedelic journey up the stairs to the padded cell then....heaven forbid a comfort break

[tony h]

Incidentaly the downstairs restaurant has always been a gallery during the day and restaurant at night. Are you saying that it is now a permanant gallery?

dunno - only see it a at night before - either way its faily brutal and hardly a place to relax it