ISO old piece about apprenticeship making ice cream

[chappie]

Many years ago I read an article or chapter of a book, can't recall, by a chef remembering an apprenticeship he had in (I think) Paris many years prior. His first assignment was making ice cream, and it ended up being the most grueling task available -- long hours holding a wooden paddle against the sides of a rotating drum as the mixture slowly thickened. The article talked about all the weight lost and muscle built on just this task.

 

Does anyone have any recollection about this? It was either from a prominent chef or published in a prominent publication (maybe Saveur? N.Y. Times?). My mind is coming up blank, as are my Google searches, and I'm trying to find it for an acquaintance who is in the midst of buying an ice cream business and currently in training from the master.