Maestro

[Joe H]

I should have noted that Fabio flies in Tenuta Castello's artisinal Vialone Nano preferring it over Ferron's whose restaurant I have also been to south of Verona. This is the same arborio that Massimiliano uses at Rubano's Le Calandre. Coincidentally he and Fabio are 29, he, Michelin's youngest three star chef ever. Fabio, for a many of his dishes, IS Massimiliano's equal. If someone elects the Winter prix fixe and includes these and perhaps two others Maestro now offers an overall experience worthy of three Michelin stars. I believe Fabio is where Keller was in his second year at the French Laundry: one national magazine or newspaper article short of challenging for recognition as America's best restaurant. He will win the Beard award for rising star chef this year. He is that talented. Maestro, is a serious, world class restaurant that has matured from even its spectacular opening.

Citronelle and Laboratorio are superb also. But I suspect that Maestro, for $125 is serving that which they should be charging $175 or more for. They have the Ritz to suppliment them. Roberto does not and I am guessing that Michel does not benefit from the small hotel either. I believe for our dinner the prix fixe should have been $200 + wine, tax and tip. Not the $125 we were charged.

[bilrus]

I started my weekend of birthday celebrations last night with dinner at Maestro with my wife. It was an impressive meal in a beautiful room. Having seen a few pictures, I was prepared to not like the feel of the room. I'm not a big fan of fussy decor (see: Inn at Little Washington) but this was formal, almost opulent, without being fussy. There were just a few missfires that kept it from being perfect.

The highlights of the evening (which decidedly outweighed the rest) were the lobster ravioli with lobster claw and ginger/lobster broth, a casserole of three types of mushrooms from the vegetarian menu, the lamb entree which included a small fried, lemon breaded lamb chop, sliced lamb loin poached in olive oil (?), pulled, braised pork belly served over a pasta and pan seared sweetbreads (which I am not fond of). A small birthday cake of white and dark chocolate mousses was a nice touch.

The Crab Risotto, which I was looking very forward to was really underdone. I know there is supposed to be a little crunch to it, but there was none of the creamy coating that well prepared risotto should have. This is the second time in a row I have been at a very well thought of restaurant where the risotto was underdone to the point of not being enjoyable. And I found the beef carpaccio appetizer to be a little strange, with its thick slabs of tofu and lacking in flavor despite the 50 year old balsamic drizzle and parmeggiano sauce.

The other disppointing things were not food related. The first was that it didn't seem to be a very good evening in the kitchen. Chef Trabocci was visibly displeased with the way things were going - There were even a few tossed utensils in the very open kitchen. The staff is obviously intimidated by him. This is the type of thing I would imagine going on in most kitchens around the world, but in a stage-like kitchen in a formal room like this, it seemed a little out of place, although it was actually entertaining (in a "The Restaurant" sort of way).

The other thing that was a little funny, but did bother me was going on in another room. There is a meeting room adjacent to the kitchen. There is a window with blinds in the kitchen that was open into the other room where someone was giving a power point presentation on toenail fungus, at least as far as I could tell from the illustrations. Granted, I and one other diner were the only ones who had a direct view through the window, but it was a little distracting and not too appetizing.

I can expect a few flaws in the food or dishes I don't necessarily like even from a top-flight restaurant, and overall the food here was excellently created and prepared. But the little, ancillary things do make a difference. And although I may have liked the food more here than even at Citronelle or the Inn, the overall experience fell just a little short.

Edited June 11, 2004 by bilrus (log)

[DonRocks]

And I found the beef carpaccio appetizer to be a little strange, with its thick slabs of tofu

No way!

[bilrus]

Yep - the beef was very nice, but was rolled around 1/2 inch square pieces of tofu, drizzled with the balsamic, a few dollops of parmeggiano sauce and a few pices of foie gras on the plate in between the two beef/tofu rolls. The foie was fine, but I am not a big fan, so it didn't add much for me (although I did manage to finish it).

[JennyUptown]

The other thing that was a little funny, but did bother me was going on in another room. There is a meeting room adjacent to the kitchen. There is a window with blinds in the kitchen that was open into the other room where someone was giving a power point presentation on toenail fungus, at least as far as I could tell from the illustrations. Granted, I and one other diner were the only ones who had a direct view through the window, but it was a little distracting and not too appetizing.

Double no way!!!

Eww, that's just awful.

[bilrus]

The other thing that was a little funny, but did bother me was going on in another room.  There is a meeting room adjacent to the kitchen.  There is a window with blinds in the kitchen that was open into the other room where someone was giving a power point presentation on toenail fungus, at least as far as I could tell from the illustrations.  Granted, I and one other diner were the only ones who had a direct view through the window, but it was a little distracting and not too appetizing.

Double no way!!!

Eww, that's just awful.

I do have to say, they weren't actual pictures, more like sketches that you would see in a textbook.

I found it more funny than anything, given the surroundings and the fact that I don't really get worked up about too many things.

[pastramionrye]

for those that have written off the beef carpaccio with tofu without tasting it; why not reserve judgment...fabio is not some inexperienced "chef" who got his first gig after spending a couple of years working at TGI Fridays. He is widely considered the best chef in this area, and one of the best in the country. i am sure the dish is excellent.

as for the complaints about the fits in the kitchen, and the toenail fungus presentation; why not bring these up directly to Maestro and their staff, rather than airing your complaints to us? Maestro and the Ritz Cmpany are unparalleled in their committment to customer service.

[DonRocks]

A couple thoughts:

I suspect I would love the beef carpaccio and tofu, but bilrus has provided a first-hand anecdote about this, and his opinion cannot be dismissed. Likewise his observations about the kitchen.

It would be an injustice towards Maestro to discuss the slide-presentation any further than this, even in jest, as it really has very little to do with anything.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[bilrus]

why not bring these up directly to Maestro and their staff, rather than airing your complaints to us? Maestro and the Ritz Cmpany are unparalleled in their committment to customer service.

I mentioned these things here because that is the purpose of this board. We come here to read the comments of other people about the restaurants we go to. And for the most part, we are honest and the site allows the sense of community that you know enough about each others' tastes and personalities to make judgements about what they are saying. Anyone who has been on here long enough to have read my comments about restaurants knows that I am not overly critical, but will point out things I don't like, whether it is food, ambiance, or service. If I only spoke of the food and how good it was (which it was), I would be doing eGullet a disservice in not bringing up other things that go into the experience.

I didn't mention either issue to the staff because it felt like there was enough tension among the staff last night that I didn't need to exacerbate anything. The service itself was nearly faultless, including one instance where they initially brought the wrong dish to my wife, but quickly rectified it by bringing a new one not only for her, but another one of the same dish for me.

Obviously, the slide show is not something that is a regular feature of the restaurant - but I thought it was an amusing anecdote and that my imaginary online friends here might get a laugh out of it.

[JPW]

Obviously, the slide show is not something that is a regular feature of the restaurant - but I thought it was an amusing anecdote and that my imaginary online friends here might get a laugh out of it.

signed,

Harvey

[robert40]

bilrus,

How would you rate your meal at Maestro next to your dinner at Per Se ?

Also have a 'Great Birthday'

Robert

[bilrus]

bilrus,

How would you rate your meal at Maestro next to your dinner at Per Se ?

There were a few dishes at Maestro that were as good or even better than what I had at Per Se. I mentioned the Lobster Ravioli which was far superior to the Lobster dish I had at Per Se and the one I had at French Laundry last year and the Mushroom "Casserole" which would have been the standout dish on the Vegetable tasting menu at Per Se.

That said, the thing that stands out about Per Se and French Laundry is that the low points were merely the lowest out of a string of high points. At Maestro, as I described, there was one dish that just didn't work for me and one that I thought was not well prepared. That didn't happen at Per Se.

As for the overall experience, the service at both was very good, although there was 'more' service at Per Se. A little more fawning and pampering at Per Se, a little more personable and friendly at Maestro. Both spaces were beautiful but quite different. I prefer the more modern style of Per Se, but as I said earlier the luxury at Maestro was not offensive.

I enjoyed both, but all other things being equal would choose Per Se.

[bilrus]

I just read my initial post to my wife and she gave me a verbal smack upside the head. She said (and in retrospect I agree) that the post made it sound like our evening wasn't even enjoyable. It was. It really was a wonderful evening and overall the food was as good as any restauant meal I have had. And looking back on some of the meals I have had in the past year alone that is saying a lot.

If I am that jaded by eating at restaurants as truly great as Maestro or Per Se, then maybe I need to take a step back and reevaluate things.

Just wanted to set the record straight.

Edited June 13, 2004 by bilrus (log)

[Mark Sommelier]

Where is Alice?

[hjshorter]

for those that have written off the beef carpaccio with tofu without tasting it; why not reserve judgment...fabio is not some inexperienced "chef" who got his first gig after spending a couple of years working at TGI Fridays. He is widely considered the best chef in this area, and one of the best in the country. i am sure the dish is excellent.

It probably is excellent, but if Bill didn't like it he should be able to say so without being criticised for not liking it. I'd prefer to read an honest opinion rather than endless fawning over the fabulousness of Maetro.

I do hope that this is not a trend here...Tarka was recently very critical of the Minibar and was made to feel bad for expressing her opinion, like she was a snob trying to impress the staff with her knowledge of avant garde cuisine.

[robert40]

hjshorter,

I truely agree with you as I have watched a pattern lately of a few who's opinion is being dragged thru the dirt from other's.

And this happen's mostly on a thread where one breaks the tide in the general consensus of others, the Maestro and Per Se thread stand out the most.

For this very reason I chosen not to write my report of Per Se on this site but another that has less traffic but not the likely hood of being ripped apart by the few who disagree with me.

This is a shame because I've been with this site from close to the beginning and have watched it grow and overcome many obstacle's.

Let's hope this is one more.

[pastramionrye]

It probably is excellent, but if Bill didn't like it he should be able to say so without being criticised for not liking it. I'd prefer to read an honest opinion rather than endless fawning over the fabulousness of Maetro.

i was not criticizing bilrus, i was criticizing the people who were panning th dish without trying it; obviously bilrus has a valid opinion; since he has actually tasted the tofu and beef.

but for anyone who has never tried it to pass judgment is somewhat unfair.

[Joe H]

http://share-dell.shutterfly.com/action/sh...szbM2r5I&idx=22

This is a photograph of the dish in question. This is from the dinner that I organized in February at Maestro. For many of the 58 of us there this was one of the two or three best dishes (of 14 total) served. I personally thought it was a "great dish" meaning one of the best that I have had anywhere.

My wife, like Bilrus, did not care for it.

[bilrus]

http://share-dell.shutterfly.com/action/sh...szbM2r5I&idx=22

This is a photograph of the dish in question. This is from the dinner that I organized in February at Maestro. For many of the 58 of us there this was one of the two or three best dishes (of 14 total) served. I personally thought it was a "great dish" meaning one of the best that I have had anywhere.

My wife, like Bilrus, did not care for it.

That is the dish. The version I was served had two of the beef/tofu wraps and about 1/5th as much foie gras. It appears he was pulling out all the stops for Joe's dinner.

It is definitely a matter of personal preference. I don't really like tofu in large quantites to begin with. A little here and there, sprinkled in my Pad Thai, for example works for me.

[Joe H]

The prix fixe was $125; I am convinced it should have been $225. Plus wine, tax and tip. It was an extraordinary meal. If Fabio will do it again I'm going to organize a dinner in the spring that is similar but I suspect the prix fixe will be much higher. I still believe-since I now have over 100 e-mails that I will have little difficulty filling the restaurant. Not with 94 people which it holds but with about 50 to 60 which is a much better and more intimate number for this kind of dinner. I am also actually thinking of TWO nights at Laboratorio in early November since I have the same number of e-mails for that. and the room will be limited to 30 people. Roberto has already said that he wants to do it again.

I should also mention that I know many people who are eagerly looking forward to what opens in the Mandarin Oriental in mid to late August.

[SanFran88]

We're going to Maestro for the first time Saturday night. Any advice? Any thoughts on which of the three menus (la creazione, la tradizione, la evoluzione) to try? My wife weighs 105 lbs. so I'm not sure how long she'll be able to hang .

[hannnah]

If you do the tasting menu, they'll mix and match between all three of the regular menus so you get to try some of everything. Also, if your wife isn't a big eater, she should definitely do the five-course option rather than the seven-course, which between amuses and pre-desserts and mignardises ends up being a LOT of food, even though the portions themselves aren't large.

[iamthestretch]

If you do get the tasting menu and you're wine drinkers, definitely let Vincent the sommelier match your courses. Though, at 105 lbs, your wife better not be planning to drive home afterward...

[SanFran88]

Also, if your wife isn't a big eater, she should definitely do the five-course option rather than the seven-course, which between amuses and pre-desserts and mignardises ends up being a LOT of food, even though the portions themselves aren't large.

...on the other hand, this could mean "seconds" for me!

[wmsmurray]

My wife and I went there for our first anniversary in November and the experience was all I was hoping and more. I would just concur with the advice of doing the tasting menu so that you can mix and match between the different menus. We chose the seven course and that was definitely a little too much for us. I would also like to second the advice to put yourself in Vincent's hands, we decided that we wanted to have a glass of wine to match each (well almost each) course and Vincent's selections were amazing. It was also a good thing that we happened to get a room at the hotel that night as trying to drive home would have not been advisable. Anyway, enjoy the experience and I look forward to hearing about it.