[CHI] Alinea – Grant Achatz – Reviews & Discussion (Part 3)

[ronnie_suburban]

I was fortunate enough to be invited to a friend's 34-course birthday dinner (one course for each year) at Alinea last Friday night and all I can say is WOW! As many time as I've been to Alinea, this particular meal was a true show-stopper.

This was a satisfying and emotionally provocative mix of items from the current menu, a few old favorites (even a trace of Trio) and some new items too. Wine service was typically wonderful, with some great pours and a special birthday bottle of Vega Sicilia 'Valbuena 5' Ribera del Duero, 2000.

Here's a copy of the menu we enjoyed . . .

As produce season approaches here in the Midwest, one can't help but wonder what's around the corner at Alinea. New lines of thought from Chef G -- the premise upon which the restaurant was named -- are continually being introduced. The process of constant refinement is a joy to experience, as a diner.

I don't get the sense that the team at Alinea is never satisfied with what they accomplish, but it's clear that they don't rest on their laurels, either. Even with the all the spectacular reviews, global honors and the restaurant booked solid nearly every night, they are still continually pushing themselves in what seems to be a quest for perfection. Is it actually achievable? I'm not sure it matters because the process of trying to get there is what actually distinguishes and defines Alinea.

=R=

[docsconz]

Some restaurants get to a certain level then coast. While there is some benefit of the predictability for diners who have never been to a restaurant before and comfort level for those who have, there is also a loss of energy and vitality that goes along with that. It is that energy along with incredible creativity that makes Alinea as outstanding as it is.

[yellow truffle]

I was fortunate enough to be invited to a friend's 34-course birthday dinner (one course for each year) at Alinea last Friday night and all I can say is WOW! As many time as I've been to Alinea, this particular meal was a true show-stopper.

This was a satisfying and emotionally provocative mix of items from the current menu, a few old favorites (even a trace of Trio) and some new items too. Wine service was typically wonderful, with some great pours and a special birthday bottle of Vega Sicilia 'Valbuena 5' Ribera del Duero, 2000.

34 on 34, was indeed a very memorable event. This was probably one of the best meals that I had at Alinea, thus far. Everything was spot on that evening. The hospitality and professionalism of the front-of-house staff was key to starting off the evening. There was even a surprise table-side appearance by chefg asking if "we were ready."

Now when someone asks this question, I tend to fear for the worse. I thought that we were going to be bombarded with a "shock and awe" degustation that would leave us humbled midway through the experience. The kitchen made it known who was boss, by making the third course a heavy savory dish of chanterelle purée. Then throttled down so that we could get through the evening. It was almost as if they knew we would be extremely hungry at the beginning, and satisfied our initial hunger.

And yes there was a retrospective of Trio dishes, such as the Mountain Huckleberry Soda, Tripod Hibiscus and Manchego Textures. Along with some totally new dishes, there were also a revival of some old Alinea favorites (20 months does seem like a long time ago).

At 34 is when we threw our hands up. The kitchen had timed everything perfectly. The food portions and the wine pours were just right for us to get through the evening comfortably. It is this kind overall thought to the diners experience that makes the grade in my book. There is no need to ask if, "we have room for dessert." They already know this.

The creativity and generosity of chefg and his staff was a warm welcome to beginning 34.

[yellow truffle]

Here's a copy of the menu we enjoyed . . .

Thanx to Ron for posting the image of the menu. For those with worsening eyes (like myself), following is the text version of the food and wine menu...

CROQUETTE smoked steelhead roe, several garnishes

OCTOPUS shiso, papaya, toasted soy

CHANTERELLE carrot, curry, ham

BONITO candied and dried

APPLE horseradish, celery

MONKFISH banana, onion, lime

BLACK TRUFFLE explosion, romaine, parmesan

DUCK mango, yogurt, pillow of juniper air

POMELO champagne, tarragon

SHORT RIB Guinness, peanut, fried broccoli

YUZU frozen and chewy

BACON butterscotch, apple, thyme

BLUEBERRY 5 complementary flavors

PERSIMMON brioche, mace, grapefruit

LICORICE CAKE muscovado sugar, orange, anise

HIBISCUS tripod

KING CRAB vinegar, aromatics, rice

MORELS puffed smoked paprika

EGG YOLK asparagus, lemon, butter

HALIBUT shellfish, waterchestnut, hyacinth vapor

SKATE caper, lemon, and brown butter powders

PINEAPPLE bacon powder, black pepper

LAMB date, mastic, rosemary aroma

HOT POTATO cold potato, black truffle, butter

VENISON encased in savory granola

TRANSPARENCY manchego, peppers, garlic

CHESTNUT Blis maple syrup

FOIE GRAS spicy cinnamon, apple pâte de fruit

ORANGE olive oil, green olive, almond

COCONUT saffron, kiwi, cornmeal

CHOCOLATE passionfruit, kaffir lime leaf, soy

BIRTHDAY chocolate ball, liquid buttercream, cake

CARAMEL meyer lemon, cinnamon perfume

NIGHTCAP pear, pedro ximénez, tequila añejo

Chartogne-Taillet "Cuvée Ste-Anne" Brut with Pineau des Charentes

Frecciarossa Pinot Nero Bianco "Sillery," Oltrepo Pavese, Italy 2005

Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Tête du Clos" 2004

Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd "Kollmutz," Wachau, Austria 2001

Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva "Pipparello," Umbria 2001

Marcel Deiss Gewurztraminer "Heimbourg," Alsace 2003

A.R. Lenoble "Rosé Millésimé" Brut, Damery 2000

Josmeyer Pinot Auxerrois "H," Alsace 1998

Andre Perret "Coteaux de Chery" Condrieu, N. Rhône 2004

Vega Sicilia "Valbuena 5," Ribera del Duero 2000

Disnókó Tokaji Aszú "6 Puttonyos," Hungary 1997

Cantine del Notaio "L'Autentica," Basilicata, Italy 2004

Hans Tschida Chardonnay "Schilfwein," Neusiedlersee, Austria 2000

[babern38]

Sweet lord!! Why was I not invited!!!????

Sounds amazing. Makes me wish I was turning 34 soon.

[ulterior epicure]

Happy Birthday, yellow truffle?

[jesteinf]

I had the distinct honor of joining YT and ronnie_suburban for 34 at 34 on Friday night. What a fantastic meal. Food, service, everything. Can a restaurant ever achieve perfection? Well, this was pretty damn close (even though I still don't like the skate dish). I'm sure there will be more to come on this.

And for those of you wondering, this meal took about 6 hours and 45 minutes by my watch. Thank goodness for comfy chairs.

[docsconz]

Man, it's going to be tough getting older YT! Just think when you turn 40! There aren't too many restaurants that i would rather spend my BD at than Alinea, especially since the restaurant and I share the same day! One of these days I will get there for that - maybe for my 50th!

But hey, where are the pics of the meal?

[yellow truffle]

Happy Birthday, yellow truffle?

Thanx, yes.

... this meal took about 6 hours and 45 minutes by my watch.

Yeah, I was a little surprised. I was ready to spend upwards of 8 hours at the restaurant. How disappointing.

Man, it's going to be tough getting older YT! Just think when you turn 40! There aren't too many restaurants that i would rather spend my BD at than Alinea, especially since the restaurant and I share the same day! One of these days I will get there for that - maybe for my 50th!

If Alinea is around when I turn 40... John, if you get here for 50, I am sure that there are a few locals that will sure make it memorable.

But hey, where are the pics of the meal?

Yeah, I did not take photos of the meal.

[yellow truffle]

But hey, where are the pics of the meal?

Yeah, I did not take photos of the meal.

No, I kid. John, can you imagine me at Alinea without taking any pics.

[yellow truffle]

CENTERPIECE sprig of rosemary

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1. CROQUETTE smoked steelhead roe, several garnishes

[yellow truffle]

2. OCTOPUS shiso, papaya, toasted soy

[yellow truffle]

3. CHANTERELLE carrot, curry, ham

[yellow truffle]

4. BONITO candied and dried

[yellow truffle]

5. APPLE horseradish, celery

[yellow truffle]

6. MONKFISH banana, onion, lime

[yellow truffle]

7. BLACK TRUFFLE explosion, romaine, parmesan

[yellow truffle]

8. DUCK mango, yogurt, pillow of juniper air

[yellow truffle]

9. POMELO champagne, tarragon

[yellow truffle]

10. SHORT RIB Guinness, peanut, fried broccoli

[yellow truffle]

11. YUZU frozen and chewy

[yellow truffle]

12. BACON butterscotch, apple, thyme

[yellow truffle]

13. BLUEBERRY 5 complementary flavors

[yellow truffle]

14. PERSIMMON brioche, mace, grapefruit