TN: Recent notes

[Florida Jim]

What I remember of wines consumed or tasted or the past several months:

2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne Les Clous:

Chardonnay from the Côte Chalonnaise that is, according to de Villaine, meant to be vin de garde; while I see no reason to argue that fact, I can say that the wine is beautiful now. On release, this carried too much wood for me but it is now completely integrated – which probably says a lot for the concentration of fruit. Good complexity and outstanding balance make this lovely to drink. If I could say that one wine in the past two months was the one I most enjoyed, this would be it – by quite a margin. 12.5% alcohol and $25 retail.

(And I will say again that this producer is simply the very best no-brainer buy in the market today if you like chardonnay and pinot noir; incredible wines at very reasonable prices)

1996 Lynch Bages:

Has become Bordeaux, maybe even Pauillac, after starting out life as something from Napa. Has lots of future and now seems to be on track to become a fine Medoc.

2007 Grey Stack Cellars, The Folly:

A syrah/grenache blend that is about as close to Côte Rôtie as this country can make. I know the history of this wine and, IMO, it is a minor miracle and a tribute to the winemaker’s blending skills. Very peppery, excellent acidity and nice complexity. About $32 retail and worth it.

1991 Chave, Hermitage:

Lean but intense, certainly of its place and sound but past its peak.

1991 Chapoutier, Hermitage: (I know they have some proprietary designation on the label but I forget what it is.) Richer than the Chave but pretty generic stuff.

2003 Puffeney, Poulsard:

Tasted blind and so many folks liked it without knowing why. When revealed almost everyone went “huh?” A much richer and fuller style than Overnoy’s but without the character and finesse. Still a conversation starter and good accompaniment to grilled flank steak.

2006 Overnoy, Arbois Pupillin:

What poulsard can become when the planets align. Sensational aromatics, translucent color and flavors that are equally translucent to the terroir. Good length and more body than is the usual for this house; a great wine.

1998 Vieux Télégraph, CdP:

Finally, opening up and becoming something worth drinking. I look forward to more of the same over the next several years as this is now showing some of the promise it suggested at release.

The wines of Biggio Hamina of Gaston, OR. A new producer that seems to understand that hang time is not required to make fine wine and that good wine-making is about not screwing it up. I tried the 2007 Melon and although it will never replace the great estates of Muscadet, it was correct and enjoyable. The 2007 Pinot Blanc was pretty with a touch of RS (I think) and is probably better suited for starters than accompaniment – still, a wine that a large cross-section of drinkers will like. The 2007 Ana’s Vnyd., Pinot Noir was a reminder of the early days of Oregon pinot; not trying to be CA or anything other than itself; charming, elegant, translucent wine that makes you smile. I also have a bottle of the 2007 Deux Vert Vnyd., Pinot Noir that I will try soon and I understand that they do a non-vineyard designated pinot that is quite tasty and cheap.

Admittedly, there is no track record here so we shall see where they go but at least they’re worth watching.

2007 Cartlidge and Browne, Pinot Noir:

Nothing fancy here but a wine that everyone seems to at least think palatable and one I happen to like. A milk chocolate note softens the nose and palate but the wine is still balanced and complete. Good for quaffing and perhaps a bit more; 13.5% abv and about $14 retail.

2007 Edmunds St. John, Heart of Gold:

54% grenache blanc and 46% vermentino from El Dorado County. Taut, crisp, with a lightly bitter note that softens with food and very pretty acidity and balance. I’m guessing a year or two in bottle will allow it to develop even more. Diane made a pasta dish with white beans and greens and we both felt this may be one of the very best combinations ever. Something in this wine works with the sharp taste of the greens and everything got better.

2006 Edmunds St. John, That Old Black Magic:

A co-fermentation of syrah and grenache that is greater than the sum of its parts. I had my hands in this stuff during fermentation so weight this note accordingly but I really like the wine. Not distinctly either variety and yet the wine captures elements of both. A nice Rhône-type blend with more elegance than many of the southern Rhône blends I’m used to.

There were many more bottles along the way but, as is often the case when I’m in CA, we were not always paying attention to the wine. And I have long since given up carrying a note-pad. Participation is always better than observation.

Best, Jim