Pierre Koffman possibly retiring?

[StephenT]

That coz you have to. We were very politely reminded when we booked that gentlemen have to wear jackets.

Paul

I take it you informed them that you're a ruffian not a gentleman and feel no need to conform to the rules they've made up for those that like to think that they're members of the gentry?

[Lord Michael Lewis]

Although it's probably lost him an awful lot of business, I support the Jacket & Tie policy. It seems to put off the coked-up party people.

[Matthew Grant]

I'm no fan of the Jacket policy at most restaurants but there are a few where it seems appropriate, LTC is one of them.

What really annoys me about a restaurant quoting a dress policy is when they don't uphold it and you find yourself surrounded by people in casual attire.

[Tonyfinch]

When I booked last week they didn't mention it.

[Matthew Grant]

Tony, whatever you do, don't arrive in turn-ups and a polo neck! Aside from the barrage of abuse you are likely to get from Simon, the restaurant won't let you in either.

[Simon Majumdar]

They may well mistake you for Jay Rayner if you turn up in turn ups. Apart from the fact you are much slimmer than he appeared in the OFM picture.

[Matthew Grant]

I have been to La Tante Claire twice before, once at Royal Hospital Road and once at The Berkeley. I know that the food is expensive but it has always been worth it. On both occasions the food was outstanding and service was a joy to behold. On the basis of my visit on Saturday, I could not recommend a visit to this restaurant to anybody, be they food lovers or not.

Service was appalling for this standard of restaurant. On my previous visit to the current location, canapés and aperitifs were served in the lounge while you perused the menu. The wonderful Maitre D’ then came and translated the whole menu if required without so much as glancing at his own copy. Each dish was described in minute detail which all added to the excitement.

On this occasion we had to ask if we could sit in the lounge for aperitifs, no ‘proper’ canapés were offered although there was a small selection of bread sticks. The waiter advised of two specials “Wild Duck and Partridge”, he didn’t know how they were prepared or composed and didn’t offer to find out for us, we had to ask him to go and speak to the kitchen to get further details. We waited nearly 20 minutes for a wine list and Sommelier, despite asking on more than one occasion for his services.

Around the table, service was amateurish, there was much swapping of plates between waiters and at one point we had to advise the waiter of who was having which dish. One of the waiters also leaned across the table to pour our water.

The food was equally poor; Foie Gras Terrine (£24) was a relatively thin slice, straight from the fridge served alongside some very ordinary toast. Rachels scallops (£25) were incredible (in a bad way), 8 whole scallops spread in a circle around the outside of the plate. The scallops were of varying sizes, ranging from small to extremely large, the squid ink sauce was thick and cloying. It looked like it had been put together by a 12 year old with too many scallops to spare, it was a very ugly dish. The two other members of our party did not say much about their starters (Lobster and mango salad with an Orange dressing (£27), Escargot (£24) done in three ways which I can’t even remember).

For the main course I had the signature dish, the pigs trotter stuffed with morels (£28), or to be more precise pigs trotter stuffed with 2 morels and some tasteless pork (?), the trotter only looked half full and was served with another thick cloying sauce which had no recognisable flavour that could even make it taste bad, it simply tasted of nothing. The pomme puree wasn’t smooth (I think the potatoes were overcooked) and was very oily.

Partridge (£32) was so bad I can’t believe it left the kitchen. It was overcooked to the point that most of it was too tough to cut, The pork belly that it was served with was actually two rashers of pale streaky bacon, crispy in places and soft in others, this was on top of what we believe was cabbage but remained untouched because of the unpleasant odour coming from that direction. Our dining companions had sea bass (£29), which was eaten without complaint, and the other also had the partridge that was once again barely touched.

We didn’t like to complain too much to save the embarrassment of our friends, however, Rachel did comment to our waiter about the partridge and he merely raised his eyes and shrugged his shoulders.

Dessert was a Pistachio Soufflé (£12), which was adequate.

I was very excited at the prospect of eating here again, but left feeling very angry and cheated. My anger stems from the fact that I know just how well Koffmann can cook and have always admired him for staying in the kitchen throughout his career. The night before I had checked with the restaurant and was delighted to be told (quite indignantly) that he would be in the kitchen on the Saturday, they advised that I would be able to visit him in the kitchen. In the end I was too embarrassed to visit (I haven’t got to Cabrales level of confidence in arguing with chefs), I simply wouldn’t have known what to say. I can only put the service down to low moral and possibly the exit of all the top staff since the announcement of the closure.

My last visit here was a 3 star experience in a 2 star restaurant. This meal wouldn’t have even received a commendation in the next Michelin guide. I have written a letter of complaint.

[Wilfrid]

Oh gawd. Who's up next? Tony Finch? Or is it time for us all to bail on those reservations?

[Matthew Grant]

Wilfred, based on this visit, I would bail out, based on previous visits I would be knocking down the door.

[Wilfrid]

It is disturbing because the problems appear to be too deep for you just to have been unlucky. Damn, damn.

[cabrales]

One option to bailing out (which I am neither recommending nor rejecting) is to have lunch at LTC. I believe there is a prix fixe menu.

[Wilfrid]

In the past, that has been a lot less interesting than the carte. If the kitchen is not turning out the food of which it was once capable, there's no point going for a last meal. It doesn't even have the nostalgia value of the original premises.

[Jonathan Day]

I have had one meal at LTC, and it was dreadful. But this was 5 years ago, it was a large group discussing business, and the group did everything it could to make life hard for the restaurant -- some people showed up very late, people changed their orders, demanded off-menu things, etc. But the attitude and demeanour of the waitstaff were worrying. When one diner asked for lamb cooked well, the waiter replied, “the chef prefers to cook it rare”, and walked away.

The cookery was poor, too -- I remember an over-floured sauce and thick, fatty skin on a duck.

I had refrained from earlier comment, since I had assumed at the time that this was not a setting in which the restaurant would do its best! However I have not been back.

[jayrayner]

They may well mistake you for Jay Rayner if you turn up in turn ups.  Apart from the fact you are much slimmer than he appeared in the OFM picture.

Obviously I was wearing a prostheses stomach for the shoot, to protect my anonymity. It's my story and I'm bloody sticking to it.

[Tonyfinch]

Based on Matthew's review I'm bailing. Sorry guys but there wasn't much of a choice after reading that.

[jayrayner]

This just in from koffmann's pr people :

'...Pierre Koffmann and the berkeley hotel have agreed to part company. As they came towards the end of their contract both parties made the amicable mutual decision to follow different routes. La Tante Claire will close at the end of december 2002 and Pierre Koffmann will open his new restaurant in Autumn 2003.

So over... but not out.

[Tonyfinch]

It may not be much compensation for Matthew but it clearly makes more sense to wait for Koffman to open his new place where presumably he will be re-energised.

I was afraid things might have gone pear shaped at LTC and can only thank Matthew for being so honest about a lousy meal and sparing me the enormous expense that he incurred.

I owe you a drink mate.

[Lord Michael Lewis]

I had lunch there last week and, while nowhere near as bad as Matthew Grant's experience, the food was good but the service fell yards from the mark.

As for a return visit; I'd rather wait until Koffman re-establishes himself elsewhere.

All very depressing.

[Lord Michael Lewis]

It seems to me that the self-effacing Koffman has been made a victim of his own integrity. His one chef - one restaurant policy, his belief that what mattered was on the plate and his admirable reluctance to clown for the press have converted him into a square peg in a market of round holes. I find this especially sad as, firstly, this would never have happened in his native Gascony, and secondly because it deals a death blow to anyone who just wishes to cook.

A humiliating episode in the career of someone who for many years has been, arguably, the best chef in Britain.

[Simon Majumdar]

LML

I think this is truly an interesting point. Is there any room anymore for a person to be a chef at his level purely for the enjoyment of cooking?

So much money is being spent on the opening of a new restaurant these days that the owners have to cover every angle and make sure that all aspects of marketing are covered. That includes the chef who has to have a well polished media friendly personality and be willing to talk about themselves at the drop of a hat. They will not and probably cannot afford the luxury of letting the food speak for itself, however good it may be.

There are still some places that exist by word of mouth. Chavot is not one for courting publicity ( as far as I am aware ) and The Capital seems to exist by good word of mouth. But for everyone of him there is a Conrad Gallagher or an Angela Harnett who is given a restaurant kitchen to run in a massive media glare.

I suspect that PK will always be a victim of this even when he moves to his new place. The real problem is that his food is never fashionable. It may be bloody good, by all arguments I have heard amongst the best in London, but he never ( maybe Never wanted to is a better way of putting it ) got on the list of must visit places in London particularly for visitors.

With Bourdin ( sp?) at the Connaught and now PK going, is there any room for the superb classically trained chef plying their trade for the enjoyment of their customers or are we now doomed to a procession of chefs who all have "branded" persona's?

S

[Lord Michael Lewis]

LML

I think this is truly an interesting point.  Is there any room anymore for a person to be a chef at his level purely for the enjoyment of cooking? 

So much money is being spent on the opening of a new restaurant these days that the owners have to cover every angle and make sure that all aspects of marketing are covered.  That includes the chef who has to have a well polished media friendly personality and be willing to talk about themselves at the drop of a hat.  They will not and probably cannot afford the luxury of letting the food speak for itself, however good it may be.

There are still some places that exist by word of mouth.  Chavot is not one for courting publicity ( as far as I am aware ) and The Capital seems to exist by good word of mouth.  But for everyone of him there is a Conrad Gallagher or an Angela Harnett who is given a restaurant kitchen to run in a massive media glare. 

I suspect that PK will always be a victim of this even when he moves to his new place.  The real problem is that his food is never fashionable.  It may be bloody good, by all arguments I have heard amongst the best in London, but he never ( maybe Never wanted to is a better way of putting it ) got on the list of must visit places in London particularly for visitors.

With Bourdin ( sp?) at the Connaught and now PK going, is there any room for the superb classically trained chef plying their trade for the enjoyment of their customers or are we now doomed to a procession of chefs who all have "branded" persona's?

S

Given Rayner's key position in the marketing spintriae, it would be interesting to hear his perspectives on this topic.

[Paul Bell]

I wonder if you are being a little generous to Pierre Koffman and harsh on a lot of other chefs. I confess that I have never eaten at LTC, I am booked in a couple of weeks but am likely to cancel unless some good reviews appear here shortly. It is however difficult to reconcile Pierre Koffman's ability, professionalisn etc as a chef with the apprently dreadful meal that Matthew had there, if he was that good surely that would not have happened? He could have had an off day, he could be pissed off about leaving the Berkeley but I am not sure that is any justification if he is as good as many people suggest. (Once again I admit that I do not know).

Similarly the presumed lack of people visiting LTC cannot solely be based upon Koffman not being a media chef. Most of the chefs in London aren't, its the same bloody ones who are in the media all the time. Simon has mentioned Chavot at the Capital (although he does have that involvement with the Cinnamon Club ) but also people like Philip Howard at The Square, Ollie Coullard (sp) at La Trompette and Chris Staines/David Nicholls at Foliage are producing some of the best food in London, to largely full restaurants whilst having very little media prescence.

I am sure if Pierre Koffman was on telly the restaurant would be busier, but bad experiences like Matthews do not help, how many of us have been put off by that one bad review. Similarly the prices are pretty hideous at LTC, I have often been put off by the fact that it seems to be a similar standard to Capital, Square et al but costs 50% more, it needs to be pretty perfect to justify £200 - 250 for me to go there. Possibly the restaurant's style puts people off as well, it appears to be very formal (even if it is not) and is part of a formal and expensive hotel. This is not necessarily a bad thing but is another possible reason for the restaurant not being as popular as it could/should be.

That being said I am sure when Petrus moves in and the Gordon Ramsay PR machine gets going it will do very well.

Paul

[Lord Michael Lewis]

You can't consign Koffman to the shit-heap on the basis of a bad meal, however awful. Tante Claire has been going for twenty+ years and all that time at the top.

[Tonyfinch]

Maybe LTC has just come to the end of its natural lifespan. It's been very successful for years despite Koffman not seeking out publicity and perhaps all concerned have realized that it's time to call it a day.

Matthew's review had an awful ring of fin de siecle about it, as if Koffman wasn't bothering to maintain his impeccable standards anymore as in "what's the point"

This is sad but its also unforgiveable given the prices charged and I had no real hesitation about cancelling as I cannot believe that those problems were as a result of an off night. More like an off year.

Maybe a new challenge and venture is just what Koffman needs and he'll be telling us in a year's time that it's the best thing he ever did etc. He's well known and respected enough to make a comeback,maybe,like Nico,with a less lofty venture more suited to our current times.

Edited November 19, 2002 by Tonyfinch (log)

[Matthew Grant]

It is however difficult to reconcile Pierre Koffman's ability, professionalisn etc as a chef with the apprently dreadful meal that Matthew had there, if he was that good surely that would not have happened? He could have had an off day, he could be pissed off about leaving the Berkeley but I am not sure that is any justification if he is as good as many people suggest. (Once again I admit that I do not know).

Paul is correct, his departure from the Berkeley is no justification for the meal I just ate. We should also remember that Koffmann leads a brigade, he is not preparing all of the food personally, the rot seemed to go through the whole staff.

A small extract from my letter to Monsieur Koffmann:

"....I feel especially disappointed having previously had two of my favourite ever meals at your establishment, both at Royal Hospital Road and at your current premises. I cannot believe that it is possible to continue serving food of this standard at these prices until December 21st. While I understand that moral may be low at the moment, this should not be used as an excuse to disappoint your fans who are no doubt rushing to enjoy one final meal at La Tante Claire."

I really do hope that he gets his act together again at his new venture.