TN: Recent impressions

[Florida Jim]

Lots of talk about 2005 Bordeaux, so I opened the 2005 Château Tour de Gilet Bordeaux Superieur this evening. My local retailer told me it’s got a bit more petite verdot in it than the usual and sure enough, its color is very dark and it’s pretty tannic. But it’s also very aromatic and quite good with pizza and salad. I suspect this would actually age into something more developed and complex; right now it’s got forward fruit, mostly in the black hues, good concentration and fair balance. At $15, maybe I’ll buy a couple for future experiments.

Or future pizza nights.

Its Friday, we’re having a homemade dinner at home and Diane, bless her heart, desires “Burgundy!” I find it wise to grant the chef’s request.

To start, a 2005 Daniel Dampt, Chablis Côte de Léchet is a striking thing; clearly of its place, full but angular on the nose it comes off crystalline yet tasting of a buttered fruit-tart in the mouth; very precise although someone has sanded off all the edges; maybe a little tight and certainly with plenty of shelf-life but oh, so good now.

Dine says we’re having polenta with a topping of greens, beans, olives, red pepper flakes and garlic, and a little pork tenderloin for me (she does not eat meat); and the 2005 d’Angerville, Bourgogne is the perfect accompaniment. It’s reticent but pure on both the nose and palate but solid and graceful in its very Beaune way; nothing here to cloy and a texture and delivery that are finely grained, perfectly balanced and make us want to come back to the glass – we both wish it was a magnum. I suppose it could use some time in the cellar but we probably won’t be that patient – how many pinot noirs today create such a presence in such an understated way? It’s a premier cru Bourgogne if there ever was one.

There are a lot of years when I really like this wine, but the 2004 Dom. d’Aupilhac, Coteaux du Languedoc Montpeyroux just isn’t one of them. It’s not a bad wine; salty minerality and ripe fruit, but it isn’t carrying anything that identifies it as to place and it seems a little over-done; torrefied and tannic for tannic’s sake, etc. I suppose it would be fine with heavy or fatty food but that’s not what I eat so this will be my last bottle of this even though it’s only $15.

A last minute invite from neighbors to come by, share some Thai food and some wine was accepted. These folks are not geeks but they had some wine they wanted us to taste (gifts all). (We were intrepid, only because we’d brought along a bottle of vermentino.) First was a brand called Hob Nob (I don’t recall vintage); it appears to be a bulk import from southern France and is designated by variety. We tasted the pinot noir and there is absolutely nothing wrong with this wine – for my preferences, its more balanced and varietal than a whole lot of CA pinots – wholesale cost $4.50.

Then they opened a 2005 Bogle, Phantom which appears to be a blend of petite sirah and zinfandel with a splash of mourvèdre. It’s 15.8% alcohol and, while it’s not hot, it is ponderous and thick in the mouth – a ‘cocktail wine’ if there ever was one.

Our bottle of 2006 Arigolas, Costamolino vermentino saved us when the food came; I don’t think I could have stomached Phad Thai and Phantom. The wine is bright, clear and tangy with several layers of flavor and a freshness that relates very well to food. $11 seems a good price.

Nice folks and at least one, nice wine.

Best, Jim

Edited March 23, 2008 by Florida Jim (log)