Travelogue: Spirited Away

[Hiroyuki]

Welcome to Japan!

Congee is okayu おかゆ お粥.

Tatoos are closely associated with yakuza.

Bowing good manners? You can see people bowing everywhere in Japan.

[Domestic Goddess]

Peter,

You mentioned that having a tattoo is one sure way to get ostracized in japan. Might one inquire if you are speaking from experience?

And why is it so? The Yakuza gangsta connection? The You-have-AIDS-because-of-dirty-needles-in-tattoo-shops?

Just curious...

[Peter Green]

Welcome to Japan!

Congee is okayu おかゆ お粥.

Tatoos are closely associated with yakuza.

Bowing good manners?  You can see people bowing everywhere in Japan.

←

Thanks very much, Hiroyuki! I've been looking forward to this trip. And I hope you'll follow along, as I'm going to have a lot of

But, I do think that bowing is good manners. If everyone does it, then it's a very good thing.

By the way, why does everyone here whisper when they talk about they yakuza?

Oh, another question, have they always put the Pocky inside the box in separate foil containers? I remember buying Pocky in Canada, and you just opened the box.

Cheers,

Peter

[Peter Green]

Peter,

You mentioned that having a tattoo is one sure way to get ostracized in japan. Might one inquire if you are speaking from experience?

And why is it so? The Yakuza gangsta connection? The You-have-AIDS-because-of-dirty-needles-in-tattoo-shops?

Just curious...

←

Nope, there's not a tattoo on me...scars, yes, tattoos, no. I have a pretty clear idea of what Yoonhi would do to me if I went for a tattoo session.

But, as Hiroyuki confirms, yes, it is the yakuza connection. Tattoos and gangsters are closely tied together in the east (and in the west there's a strong connection with prison tattoos identifying who's done time). Jason (my nephew) had told me that tattoo parlours weren't allowed in Korea for that very reason, basically to keep the gangs pinned down a bit (at least in one aspect).

Unfortunately, none of this has much to do with food. I'd better get back to posting.

On the good news side, The Boy made it here in one piece, with all of his luggage, so it appears we're off to a safe start.

Now I just need to find time to write.

[prasantrin]

Now I just need to find time to write.

←

That's what early mornings are for (up at 3am--no more afternoon chocolat chaud for me!).

I think I might be the only one who whispers when talking about yakuza. Most people avoid talking about it in public. But I'm a foreigner, so what do I care?

[Hiroyuki]

By the way, why does everyone here whisper when they talk about they yakuza?

Oh, another question, have they always put the Pocky inside the box in separate foil containers?  I remember buying Pocky in Canada, and you just opened the box.

Cheers,

Peter

←

But why not? The kind-looking individual clad in suit and tie who stands next to you may be a yakuza. The italics in my former post meant that I whispered.

As for Pocky, do you mean that in Canada, you open a box and find bare Pocky?

OK, don't waste your time in answering. Spend time posting photos!

[Peter Green]

Fugu! I wan’t Fugu! doh!

Helen’s post had, as I said seemed a matter of synchronicity, given the Fugu poisoning scene at the start of Le Grand Chef (if you were concerned, don’t be. No food critics were harmed in the making of the film).

It seemed I was predestined.

I was having fugu.

Life’s a lot easier when I don’t have to take responsibility for my choices.

What did I have to go on? I had a name, Zuboraya, and, from the link, I had a map. Okay, the map made pretty much no sense to me, but I had it on good faith that it was close, and that it was in Ebisu.

Let me explain something. My level of research on this trip has been close to nil…..

Okay, it’s pretty much nil. My main concern has been coordinating things so that I have a roof over our heads each night, and so that I actually find Scud at the airport. If I don’t find Scud, I suspect I’ll be in a lot of trouble.

Anyways, I’d settled into my place. There has been some comment, from certain quarters, regarding where I’m staying, but I must say that I find the area has a certain charm.

No transvestites, nobody I noticed missing the last joint of a little finger, but still a certain charm.

My place is next to a number of autobody and fabrication shops so, by the time I was heading out, things were getting pretty quiet. I did a once about to orient myself (and find out where the beer vending machines are) and then made certain I could find my apartment again.

This actually proved pretty tough, so I’m glad I did it. Otherwise I’d we wandering about in the rain late at night trying to figure out where my things were. That’s not a pretty thought.

The second order of business was to get some food. I hadn’t eaten since breakfast, back before 8, and this isn’t going to be much of a food trip if I don’t eat anything. So, as I’ve said, I was looking for Zuboraya.

First I headed across the tracks, and found a sign saying I was at least in the Ebisu area. From there, I headed left, hoping the numbers would get lower.

This worked. As I walked, I kept an eye out down the side streets, something I’d learned from Korea. If there was a street of food, it wouldn’t be on the main drag, it would be down the sides.

I spotted what looked like a likely spot, full of bright lights and a smattering of people, and headed down. The Tower acted as a guide for navigation.

And what do you know? Big pufferfish hanging up in the street just like on the web page.

I scouted the 3 Zuboraya places, and then wandered on a bit to see what else there might be. There was an interesting spot just up the street that seemed to specialize in deep frying things on sticks, and there were more than a few sushi places. And some grilling spots.

I loved the elaborate nature of the displays attached to the restaurant facades. It had me thinking of Wings of Honeamise, that old classic of space flight (I can’t find it on DVD now, and my VHS version is about to snap, I’m afraid).

But, I felt it would be to fly in the face of fate not to have fugu. I chose the smallest of the three on the corner, across from the giant Billikin statue.

This was my first real meal in Japan. I could not consider the breakfast buffet as a meal, per se. I needed to be on my best behaviour and follow the proper rules of etiquette.

So, when the pleasant middle aged lady ushered me in and asked what I would have, I ordered some sake, and then explained that I was an idiot, and I’d need to go look at the plastic food.

Thank heavens for plastic food (What is the proper Japanese name for the display of food out front?).

I figured that if I went to the most expensive item and ordered that, I would probably be alright.

I was informed that this indeed, fugu, and was served as nabe.

That’s a good start, I figured.

The food came as a very pleasant collection of fish, some bits of meat, and three or four good bony pieces that I assumed would form the backbone of the stock.

The pot came to a boil, and my hostess removed the piece of whatever it was (seaweed?) from the broth, and then put the bones in, the vegetables (radish, cabbage), and then the tofu. Then, once at heat again, the fish meat was lightly cooked, and eaten with a mixed sauce of spring onion and ginger (in soy and vinegar?).

This kept me busy, as did the sake that I worked through. But, as I believe in variety, and I needed to rehydrate, I decided to try some shochu in the mix as well.

What a happy decsion that was, as a “gurasu” (glass) of shochu is much more like a half pint. This is the way to drink shochu. None of these little shot glasses that need to be filled up again and again.

I suppose next I’ll be moving onto one of those backpack siphon systems……

I finished the first stage of the nabe, and then the very patient lady came by to move the rest of the vegetables and the noodles into the pot, and then let it and still felt that there was room for more. My reading was enough that I could recognize a sign on the wall for fugu tataki (no kanji in that to struggle with), so I ventured an order.

I much preferred this. Perhaps just that this is more in my comfort zone. The meat was nice and chewy, but not overly rubbery as I’ve had in the past.

Of course, that just got me going. One of the tables nearby had filled up, and I’d noticed that they’d ordered nigirizush, so I felt safe in asking for that.

The three pieces represented a nice cross section of fugu meat. Of the three, I’d say my heart was with the mince on the right, that having a good, fishy flavour.

Across from me, a pair of older gentlemen were enjoying a different nabe, into which the waitress was crumbling nori.

With the sushi, a beer (a Suntory), and then turned my thoughts to the important matters in life.

Like my cup of tea. What a pretty colour.

And then, of the greatest importance……would I eat next?

Next: Peter moves on to Phase II

[Domestic Goddess]

Tontatsu!

Tempura!

Sukiyaki!

Lots and lots of sushi!

Um, you can tell I am excited.

[helenjp]

You found it! I have no sense of direction, and was about to say "just look for the giant pufferfish", but I see you did that...

Hope you enjoy the rest of your Osaka experience.

[Hiroyuki]

Thanks for the photos and all the funny descriptions!

So, you ordered one dish at a time... I just checked the website of Zuboraya, and found they offer some great set meals for 3,000-3,800 yen. I would definately try one of them.

http://www.zuboraya.co.jp/menu04.html

As for plastic food, each item is called a shokuhin (food) sanpuru (= sample)

食品サンプル

Looking forward to your next post!

[nakji]

You found it! I have no sense of direction, and was about to say "just look for the giant pufferfish", but I see you did that...

Hope you enjoy the rest of your Osaka experience.

Ha! All the directions I ever get to places in Japan go a little like that. You know, "take the west exit, cross the street and go through the blue gate, then turn right at the giant onigiri/pufferfish/french fries."

Can't wait til you get to Tokyo!

[Peter Green]

Man, it's already the evening of the 17th, and I've only got 1/3 of the way through my first real night's eating.

Here's a synopsis of what's happened, with the details (and pictures to follow):

March 15: a day out with Rona and an upscale dinner

March 16: a lunch with Rona, chocolate with Rona, and then Scud hunting

March 17: a museum, and then a walkabout, dinner, and another walkabout

There. Never say I leave you in the dark.

P.S. - I've been eating Men's Pocky, just to reaffirm my virility (wait a minute, this is bitter chocolate, and it's still only as long as a regular Pocky!)

[insomniac]

P.S. - I've been eating Men's Pocky, just to reaffirm my virility (wait a minute, this is bitter chocolate, and it's still only as long as a regular Pocky!)

....but isn't it thicker?....seriously...

[Peter Green]

P.S. - I've been eating Men's Pocky, just to reaffirm my virility (wait a minute, this is bitter chocolate, and it's still only as long as a regular Pocky!)

....but isn't it thicker?....seriously...

←

Nope, just more bitter.

[Shelby]

P.S. - I've been eating Men's Pocky, just to reaffirm my virility (wait a minute, this is bitter chocolate, and it's still only as long as a regular Pocky!)

....but isn't it thicker?....seriously...

←

So many jokes.......so little time.....

[prasantrin]

P.S. - I've been eating Men's Pocky, just to reaffirm my virility (wait a minute, this is bitter chocolate, and it's still only as long as a regular Pocky!)

....but isn't it thicker?....seriously...

←

So many jokes.......so little time.....

←

If it's bitter, shouldn't it be shorter?

[nakji]

If it's bitter, shouldn't it be shorter?

Oh, boy. Someone is going to bang on our wall and tell us to keep it down in here!

Men's Pocky is really the best, although I'm hoping they're going to come out with a sakura version for the cherry blossom season.

What else have you been eating, Peter Green?

[prasantrin]

I will feed y'all a wee bit so you don't feel like you've been left hanging.

Expect a long wait...

[miladyinsanity]

Yes! More Peter!

I nearly missed this. How long will you guys be there? If it's more than a week I'm not going to be able to follow this through in real time. *wails*

[Peter Green]

March 14 (yet again)

From Shinsekai I wandered on foot, heading into DenDenTown, home of all things electronic (I’d been told).

A haven for the otaku, it’s packed with video game shops as well as hardware sales. The posters for the last Gundam release are still up in prime place, and King of Kings looks down mournfully from the tops of buildings.

And then, just past Den Den Sup;er Potato PC (leading the way in retro tv game revivals) as my attention was snagged by a poster for the Nippombashi Street Fest (scheduled for the 20th, after I’m gone), my ears hear something cooking.

Takoyaki.

They were sizzling away streetside, the woman working behind a little countertop opening onto the main drag. She was easing the balls out of their molds, and rotating them to finish off the outside.

As some of you will recall, I’d been introduced to takoyaki back in Bangkok, having come across a stall outside of Fuji off Sukhumvit.

At the time, I’d been less than thrilled, bitting into a rather desultorily clotted mass of half cooked batter.

But this was different. It was cooked. It was still wet in the middle, but the outside had been settled nicely, and there was a good piece of recognizeable octopus in there to chew on.

But, food is only part of the restaurant experience. When in Japan, you have to take the time to appreciate the subtle nuances that go into establishing the atmosphere the owners wish to project.

Take for instance the elegantly polished plank of wood at which I was eating, countering the serene prints tacked to the wall, bring back rural memories of yesteryear. Likewise the metal chairs and serving trays introduced an element of the modern.

And, to draw out the literary elements that run through Osaka’s background, with hints of Tanizaki’s The Makioka Sisters' early sections…..we have a copy of Great Teacher Onizuka #1!

Hmmm….the manga’s quite a bit more lurid than the movie…….

A beer, a Styrofoam pack of takoyaki, and a good, sordid manga, and a run-down hole-in-the-wall (literally). What more can you ask for from life?

I was warming quickly to this city.

Next: still hungry

[Hiroyuki]

But this was different.  It was cooked.  It was still wet in the middle, but the outside had been settled nicely, and there was a good piece of recognizeable octopus in there to chew on.

←

I'm glad you had the real one! Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside!

[Peter Green]

Aside

We've now made the move from Osaka to Kyoto. With Rona's help this was relatively painless, resulting in only one run-in with a group of Mozart bound Germans who were in our way, and the loss of a wheel from the most massive of our suitcases.

That's going to be a problem.

Scud had an important comment this morning. The Yebisu Premium All Malt that I had this morning while packing was the beer referenced in Neon Genesis Evangelion when Misato opened a fridge to find it lined with beer.

Because you need to know.

(P.S. - of these two, I preferred the Yebisu over Suntory's 0)

[helenjp]

Heck, of course you preferred the Ebisu. And not only to "Zero nama" - Ebisu is preferable to everything! Some of us have married people because they preferred Ebisu....

[Hiroyuki]

But, Zero Nama isn't even a beer! It's a happou shu!

[Peter Green]

But, Zero Nama isn't even a beer!  It's a happou shu!

←

Okay, I've gotta know! What is "happou shu"? It did say 4%. We just watched an ad on tv of some guy with a completely insane smile who was supposedly revelling in the thrill of Zero.

And, darn, the cherry blossom report says we're going to miss out by a couple of weeks (this sounds oddly like the Korea trip).

Thanks,

Peter

Edited March 19, 2008 by Peter Green (log)