Little Owl

[Nathan]

This place has gotten some great press lately (from Bruni, Time Out, etc.) but I think there has been some cynicism treating it as probably yet another overrated neighborhood place.

I went last night with EatMyWords and his lovely guest.

The bad: very small and confined -- seats 32 with the bar, and that's pushing it. Just wine and beer, no real booze. Excellent lists in both categories though considering the size of the place.

The good: everything else. The service made up for the space....and had a very Danny Meyer-esque quality.

We shared the sliders to begin -- they were as good as a cross between a sloppy joe and a meatball sandwich can be.

The ricotta cavatelli with fava beans and bacon. Simple, hearty and terrific. BTW, they split this app three ways (without our asking) and I think threw in a little extra.

Sliced duck breast, almond and arugala salad with shaved truffles (and additional truffle oil)...I would have done without the extra truffle oil, but this was also quite good.

Hamachi with slaw. The slaw had a nice crunch. The hamachi was cooked just fine but being hamachi (I don't know they didn't call it yellow tail or whatever considering there is nothing Japanese about the restaurant) it was tasteless.

The pork chops. Each one was served on the bone and in a size sufficient to feed at least 2 people. These were massive. So massive that the promised medium rare didn't materialize (more like medium flat) but still juicy and flavorful.

We also had a side of asparagus with roasted potatoes. Which was just fine.

I'd go back for that pork chop anytime. I'd go back for the rest of the menu anytime.

There's nothing particularly innovative about the cooking at Little Owl, nor is it intended to be. Simply high-quality ingredients, cooked with passion and served warmly. Oh, and at exceptionally low prices.

total bill with 2 glasses of wine each, tax and tip...about 65-70 apiece.

and we ordered way too much food.

I'll take this over those tourist traps in the MP anyday...

[Sneakeater]

How would you say Little Owl compares to the new Tasting Room?

(You can wait until you have had an actual meal at the Tasting Room if you feel for some reason that your opinion has to have some kind of basis.)

Edited August 11, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[Nathan]

The new Tasting Room is larger.

Based on my one dish and perusal of the menu at the Tasting Room I'd say that its culinary aesthetic is more ambitious. And its use of ingredients is certainly broader.

The level of execution (including the thought put into dish composition) at Little Owl is awfully high though.

[Sneakeater]

The new Tasting Room is larger.

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How hard was it to get seated at Little Owl?

[Nathan]

very hard. waited an hour despite the downpour.

they take reservations now. I wouldn't go there without them....

[Eatmywords]

I'll ditto Nathan's review esp on the service. I forget her name (the black girl) but if her timing, knowledge and demeanor weren't a model for any restaurant, upscale, hip, inbtwn, I don't know what is. (and I'm pretty tough having waited tables for 7yrs).

The food was exceptional for the price pt.. The cavateli w/bacon and favas in a tom broth topped w/ricotta was Lupa simple. The freshness of the beans and ricotta made for a wonderful dish. I loved that as small and busy as the kitchen was they split it for us 3 ways w/out even asking. -Funny, I haven't seen that in a while. (Plus they def upsized the portions : ) .

The sliders on very fresh brioche had a heavy pork sausage kick that balanced well with the grated pecorino. A good app......esp if your hungry.....very filling.

The pork chop indeed was one of the thickest I've ever tackled. Imagine a squared softball. Only regret, as the Nathan pointed out, it was ever so slightly overcooked. Still very moist though. When you dabbed it in the parmesan sc (which mixed w/the pork juice) it was close to perfect.

The biggest surprise was the duck salad. Very lean sliced breast seared rare w/almonds and arugula and shaved truffles. Never have I seen an abundance of shavings like this (for the price). Maybe 10-15 quarter sized disks. I ate a couple plain. Man, where they good and the extra truffle oil w/vingrt made for a great salad. At $10, I don't know where you'll find comparable.

I would def go back with a ressy or at an odd time. They only seat 28 and patrons don't seem rushed. Yes, it's a little tight but you don't feel like leaving.

[Sneakeater]

Ya know, they just added some fancied-up "sliders" as an app at Fatty Crab, too. (Also delicious!) I wonder if this is one of those zeitgeist dishes.

Edited August 13, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[Sneakeater]

I ambled into Little Owl at about 10 p.m. Sunday, after (I'm saddened to say) a long day of work. The place was completely full. But they made a place for me at the side of the bar. It wasn't particularly comfortable. But at least I had dinner.

This place lives up to its notices. I'd say it's a strong one-star rather than a two-star, but we all know what two stars from the Times currently means. (I take that back: actually, the problem is, we don't know.) Anyway, except for the fact that you can't get into it, I strongly recommend Little Owl to everyone.

I started with a special, gnocchi with chanterelles. Sort of a can't-miss dish, if it's competently prepared, and the competence of the kitchen here is beyond question. (Even though it was a Sunday night in August, Chef Joey was in the house.)

Of course I had the famous pork chop. If I hadn't been prepared by Nathan's and Eatmywords' comments, I'd have laughed when they put it in front of me. Where'd they get the recipe from, Fred Flintstone? Was this a chop from a Porkasaurus? Doesn't matter. It's as delicious as everybody says (and, in my case, it sort of was cooked medium rare, the very middle even verging on redness -- and, as previous comments have noted, it wasn't dry in the least bit). I don't remember the details. Are these chops brined? It sort of tasted like it. In any event, one of the must-try dishes of the summer.

Little Owl is not an exceptional restaurant. What it is, is an exceptionally good restaurant of modest ambitions, which nails them. The level of cooking here -- just the sheer quality of technique and ingredients -- is much higher than you have any right to expect at a place like this. The prices aren't laughably low or anything (go to Deborah if you want to see a really cheap but overperforming restaurant), but they're more than fair for the quality (and quantity) of the food. The general style seems to be straightforward, fully-flavored cooking, simple with an occassional twist. Just what I like, really (at least for everyday dining). You look at the menu, and have a hard time choosing (except that, on first visit, you've got to have the pork chop). It hardly needs accolades from me, but I'll bestow them anyway: go.

Edited August 15, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[Nathan]

or, I'd put it this way:

Little Owl is exactly what a superlative neighborhood restaurant would be; except that I can't think of too many neighborhoods fortunate enough to have something like it.

[Eatmywords]

Finally had a chance to add a couple pics from that night:

I'll ditto Nathan's review esp on the service.  I forget her name (the black girl) but if her timing, knowledge and demeanor weren't a model for any restaurant, upscale, hip, inbtwn, I don't know what is.  (and I'm pretty tough having waited tables for 7yrs). 

The food was exceptional for the price pt..  The cavateli w/bacon and favas in a tom broth topped w/ricotta was Lupa simple. The freshness of the beans and ricotta made for a wonderful dish.  I loved that as small and busy as the kitchen was they split it for us 3 ways w/out even asking. -Funny, I haven't seen that in a while.  (Plus they def upsized the portions : ) . 

The sliders on very fresh brioche had a heavy pork sausage kick that balanced well with the grated pecorino.  A good app......esp if your hungry.....very filling. 

The pork chop indeed was one of the thickest I've ever tackled.  Imagine a squared softball.  Only regret, as the Nathan pointed out, it was ever so slightly overcooked. Still very moist though.  When you dabbed it in the parmesan sc (which mixed w/the pork juice) it was close to perfect.

The biggest surprise was the duck salad.  Very lean sliced breast seared rare w/almonds and arugula and shaved truffles.  Never have I seen an abundance of shavings like this (for the price).  Maybe 10-15 quarter sized disks.  I ate a couple plain.  Man, where they good and the extra truffle oil w/vingrt made for a great salad.  At $10, I don't know where you'll find comparable.

(Sorry, no pic, we ate it too fast : )

I would def go back with a ressy or at an odd time.  They only seat 28 and patrons don't seem rushed.  Yes, it's a little tight but you don't feel like leaving.

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[ewindels]

For those looking for a solid, well-executed, well-considered and un-gimmicky meal, Little Owl's definitely worth a visit. It's basically a highish-level neighborhood joint (well, higher than the general level in my neighborhood), which in its emphasis on simple straight forward preparations of high quality ingredients reminded me of Cookshop.

I strongly echo the reservation recommendation: having been told that on a Sunday a walk-in for two before 6:30 would be no problem, my companion and I arrived at 5:15 to find the place completely packed with an hour wait. Turned out to be closer to 90 minutes, but when we returned after an hour at EO (very disappointing), they comped us some cava for the rest of the wait, which was nice. And it was worth it. Those meatball sliders are really a meal in themselves, light and luscious and with just the right amount of fennel (the recipe is in this week's New York Magazine). The gnocchi with bolognese were just as good as you'd get at Lupa. My companion's monkfish was just as hefty and juicy and satisfying as the my pork chop, which lived up to all the praise I've read about it. Simply grilled and served with its juices, its a lesson in understatement and letting the quality of the product shine.

We split the beignets for dessert, which are a nice idea (filled with raspberry jam and served with a puddle of melted bittersweet chocolate to dip in), but they seemed kind of heavy in comparison to other examples of memory (I'm thinking in particularly of Calle Ocho, which used to serve superlative beignets, I don't know if they still do). Both our wines were also a little disappointing: a little wan and not able to stand up to the food. Minor quibbles, though: it's worth a trip, if not an immediate one, and by all means get a reservation.

[Noodlebot]

I went a couple of weekends ago and also had a great meal--scallops, cod, pork, beignets (agree that they were a little heavy), and apple crumble. Everything was very good. We got our reservation on opentable and were surprisingly seated on time. I was also happy to see that service hasn't suffered for the popularity--everyone we dealt with was incredibly friendly and accommodating.

[tupac17616]

I, too, ate at the Little Owl on Sunday night. Looking out the huge windows overlooking that quiet little corner in the village as it snowed was beautiful. The staff were all very friendly. There was a wait for a spot of the bar, but that's pretty much par for the course, I'd imagine, since there are only five seats there. As for the food: the meatball sliders were moist and delcious. The pork chop, juicy and cooked perfectly, though admittedly not even close to the softball-sized mound of pork pictures above in this thread. I agree with ewindels and noodlebot on the beignets -- definitly a little heavy. And undersalted. A little salt sprinkled on the Nutella that accompanied them, though, and all was well. Their cheese selections sounded nice, but unfortunately they hadn't gotten their delivery that day, so I was out of luck. Maybe next time. The price was right. There is no BS and no pretention about the place (aside, perhaps, from calling the pork chop, "the pork chop" on the menu, but yeah). I'd go back. Next time, though, dessert somewhere else.

[Nathan]

this is one observation that Bruni has made with regard to Little Owl and other tiny "neighborhood" restaurants that is spot-on:

they don't do dessert well -- for the obvious reason that they can't afford a full-time pastry chef.

indeed, the desserts are often outsourced

Edited February 1, 2007 by Nathan (log)

[Eatmywords]

this is one observation that Bruni has made with regard to Little Owl and other tiny "neighborhood" restaurants that is spot-on:

they don't do dessert well -- for the obvious reason that they can't afford a full-time pastry chef.

indeed, the desserts are often outsourced

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Given Owl's aspirations and size (both kitchen and dining room) it would seem foolish to even consider a F/T pastry chef (affordable or not).

Maybe, it's intentional that they don't do good/great deserts. With the volume and cramped space (i.e nowhere to wait inside) I bet turning the tables is more a priority. Though, I'm sure they could tweak the beignets. It's fried dough for gds sake.

You know Nathan, we've all been waiting sometime. When are you going to create the "Up Bruni's Ass" thread?

[oakapple]

Given Owl's aspirations and size (both kitchen and dining room) it would seem foolish to even consider a F/T pastry chef (affordable or not). 

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Yeah, but what would be foolish is to rate the restaurant two stars, when it lacks the amenities expected at that level. Oh, but wait...somone already did that.

Instead of a two-star restaurant that's missing stuff, I'd rather view it as a great one-star restaurant.

[Sneakeater]

Instead of a two-star restaurant that's missing stuff, I'd rather view it as a great one-star restaurant.

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Which is what it is. Except for its Times rating.

[Nathan]

some of us really just don't care about dessert

[Sneakeater]

Whether you care or not about dessert has nothing to do with how you'd objectively rate a restaurant for others.

[Nathan]

If I recall correctly, you agreed with Sriphithai's two-star rating.

[Sneakeater]

Absolutely. But it's one thing to say, "I don't understand Thai desserts, but the mains are so good I think it's worth two stars." And another to say, "Here's a restaurant where the desserts just don't live up to the rest of the menu." I think that latter is something you'd have to account for. (If you were inclined to do star-type ratings, that is.)

Or, if you're not talking about desserts, but simply about Sripraphai's general lack of amenities, I'd say that my analysis of it is the same as yours: the food is above two-star level, and the lack of amenities brings it down to two.

[Sneakeater]

But note that none of that is based on my own idiosyncratic views of the relative importance of one thing or the other. It's not like I'm saying, "I personally don't care about decor, so I'm ignoring that in my calculus."

[Sneakeater]

Since nobody's written about Little Owl in a while, I thought my ordering two dishes I'd never had before during a visit last week would be an excuse.

Little Owl's popularity hasn't diminished. I walked in late-ish on a midweek night, and the place was packed. As usual, though, they were able to create a place for an additional (solo) diner at the bar, and off I went.

My appetizer of fideos -- the spaghetti-like Spanish pasta -- with fava beans, red pepper, and olive oil was another one of those unexpectedly great dishes that pop out of the kitchen here with some regularity. So seemingly simple, so deeply flavorful. Like last year's cavatelli, a winner.

My lamb shank main dish was fine. It wasn't as great as a lamb shank as the pork chop is as a pork chop, if you know what I mean. But it was still excellently prepared, and well worth the price. It's not really a criticism of Little Owl to say that only some of the dishes are miraculous.

There was no reason to suspect there'd been any recent downturn here. But nevertheless, I'm happy to report that Little Owl's as good as ever.

(COMP DISCLOSURE: When my lamb shank was brought to me, a bottle of a Bordeaux petite chateau suddenly appeared along with it, with the advice that Chef Joey thought it would be a better accompaniment to the lamb than any of the wines on the by-the-glass list. Then, Chef Joey himself materialized, and we proceeded to split the bottle. Which did not, of course, appear on my check. I don't think this largesse had any effect on my feelings about the meal. They had me with the fideos.)

Edited April 30, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[Nathan]

I make it here all too rarely. it's that damn wait...(not that they're complaining about the popularity). we lucked out last night. only about a half hour wait when we stopped by a little after 9.

the sliders are as good as ever.

tried a new (to me anyway) artichoke app. fried and served with arugula in a lemony-parmesan broth. liked the broth. thought the artichoke was bland.

a horseradish topped halibut served with chive and lemon mashed potatoes was an interesting dish. note to the two-star detractors up the thread: this was exactly the sort of dish one sees at classic two (and a few years back, three) star restaurants....as soon as I saw and tasted it I thought "this is so totally Union Square Cafe"....it was absolutely perfectly cooked, the horseradish showed excellent technique, and the dish was completely boring. so, yeah, they can do that food just fine. I'd rather that they not thank you very much.

the pork chop is, of course, still insanely good. I'm still drooling. it reminds me of a really good steak. has that same crispy, robustly seasoned exterior, and that awesome interior juiciness...it's missing that minerality that you get from a good dry-aged steak...but it's as good as pork can be.

[kathryn]

I went a month or so ago, after having brunch and being impressed enough to want to try dinner, despite the crowds. I tried poaching a reservation on OpenTable.com. I think they release tables at or around midnight, so I just grabbed the next available date and time. A Sunday around 5:00pm. Who wants to eat at five? Apparently me, if it's the only table I can snag.

Got there, place was already packed (I guess other people also want to eat at 5pm), saw a few parties of two and three come in, and turn right around, discouraged. Had the meatball sliders to start. Great, juicy, loved the cheesy buns. The meat itself could have been spiced more aggressively, but I thought it was fine as it was. They even split the 3 sliders into 4 for my boyfriend and I.

He had the crispy chicken, which was well executed, and tender inside. Not exactly the most exciting dish, but perfectly cooked. Which is not something I can say for my pork chop. It wasn't dry at all, just a bit too far past medium rare, and I found the pork itself to be bland. The parmesan butter beans underneath were very good but the chop itself was unexciting and not worth the fuss. What happened? I felt like I was just chewing...a big hunk of unseasoned, boring meat. Salt helped, but I was expecting something more. (I think the kitchen wasn't paying enough attention that evening as the couple next to us were served beignets that were not properly cooked -- raw in the center?)

Our dessert, however, a strawberry rhubarb cobbler topped with strawberry ice cream, made up for it. It was served piping hot and fantastic, with cold, dribbly ice cream melting onto the crumbly crust.

Maybe it was an off night, but I don't think we'll be going back soon for dinner given the absurd waits/reservation times. Lunch/brunch is a much better time, I think.