Madrid Fusión 2008

[pedro]

.....

Martin Berasategui was a spirited bidder, but...

I do not know who the guy above is, but certainly is not Martín Berasategui.

[docsconz]

.....

Martin Berasategui was a spirited bidder, but...

I do not know who the guy above is, but certainly is not Martín Berasategui.

←

My apologies. I will take your word for it, Pedro. That is who the auctioneer said he was as the bidding was going on. In any case, he was a spirited bidder! Perhaps he was representing Martín Berasategui?

[docsconz]

Never having seen or met the man, I probably should have confirmed that is who it was prior to now, but looking at some on-line photos, I would certainly have to agree with you, Pedro. My bad.

[docsconz]

Davide Scabin

Scabin, from the Restaurant Combal 0 in Torino, Italy presented "The sensorial perception of food." With the aid of audiovisuals, Scabin discussed his work in creating an organized and individualized palette of tastes geared toward each individual diner's preferences. He proposed that a diner could carry a card that outlines that diner's taste perception preferences from which meals could be crafted towards that diner's preferences. To achieve this end, Scabin has taken five primary taste elements and is attempting to quantify individual taste variations that will be noted on his identity card. The one he appears to have come furthest with is salt, having established the Scabin Salt System in order to quantify specific salinities for recipes that can be varied according to personal preference. I first saw Scabin present some very early work on the Scabin Salt System a year and a half ago in New York at the Starchefs International Chefs Congress. He appears to have honed his ideas quite a bit since that time.

Clearly, this work is too early to have any real applicability for the foreseeable future if at all. I commend Scabin, however, for having the confidence to present such a theoretical approach as yet untested in a restaurant situation. On the other hand, if something like this can't be presented at Madrid Fusión, then it is unlikely that it would be presented at any culinary conference.

[vserna]

My apologies. I will take your word for it, Pedro. That is who the auctioneer said he was as the bidding was going on. In any case, he was a spirited bidder! Perhaps he was representing Martín Berasategui?

←

This is the real Martín Berasategui:

[docsconz]

Keiko Nagai

The story of Keiko Nagai, pastry chef at the Hotel Lancaster, is an interesting one. Born and raised in japan she was introduced to fine desserts during a childhood visit to Paris. Enthralled, she learned to make desserts as a hobby and got a law degree back in Japan. Not thrilled with her career choice, she took a couple of years off to find herself by traveling. Initially she traveled to Europe to learn French winding up at the Sorbonne. Once she finished her course, she still had time and obtained a diploma in patisserie from Le Cordon Bleu. Nagae wound up being hired by Laduree and before she new it, she was the opening Pastry Chef at Pierre Gagnaire's Sketch in London. She has been at the Lancaster since 2004.

The title of the presentation that she shared with Cristophe Michalak was "Cake-making for Gourmands: Sweet dishes on the menu." The avenue she chose to take was to discuss the wide world of citrus. She prepared a beautiful dessert to reflect that.

Nagae brought a tray loaded with a wide variety of citrus fruits that she was able to compile and discussed each one, though she emphasized yuzu in her presentation.

Christophe Michalak watches and awaits his turn on stage.

Nagae created a citrus fruit jelly using a variety of different citrus elements that she used as a base for her plating.

To top the citrus jelly, Nagae made a cheesecake using yuzu juice, Philadelphia cream cheese and kudzu flour. This was placed on a lemon sablé and both were placed atop the Citrus fruit jelly.

Cheesecake fondant, citrus fruit jelly

Edited February 26, 2008 by docsconz (log)

[adey73]

Is that the Hotel Lancaster in Paris or Lancaster Hotel in London?

Oh and John what language was her presentation in?

[docsconz]

Is that the Hotel Lancaster in Paris or Lancaster Hotel in London?

Oh and John what language was her presentation in?

←

It was Michel Troisgros' outpost in Paris. She spoke in French if I remember correctly.

[docsconz]

I will have to admit that by the time Christophe Michalak came on the stage, my spirit was willing, but my body was no longer co-operating. After five nights in a row of very little sleep and plenty of running around and excitement by day, I was exhausted. I managed to catch the beginning of Michalak's presentation before returning my hotel to recharge somewhat before dinner.

Michalak showed a number of slides of some of his whimsical desserts. I did take a few photos, but alas, none that really do him or his work sufficient justice. nevertheless, I think that you can get a sense of some f his humor and skill. Michalak is the pastry chef at the Hotel Plaza Athénée in Paris. Michalak's family comes from Italy and he even shares a grandfather with Michel Troisgros, though until he stepped into the ring, his side of the family were not particularly culinarily inclined. While working for Ducasse, Michalak considers Pierre Herme and Frederic Bau to be his masters as well as his friends.

Elixir Plaza, Creamy lemon biscuit

Michalak apparently did prepare this dessert, perhaps his most well-known, live, though I did not see it to completion. The dessert consists of a pear sorbet and lemon biscuit placed at the bottom of the glass, layered on top by strawberry compote and fresh strawberries and then a half-sphere of beaten egg whites coated with caramelized almonds. Dry ice is added and the glass is stoppered with a cork. Warm strawberry juice is poured over this at the table after the lid is removed.

While I am not absolutely sure, i believe that this is a "sponge" cake. I am sure, however, that my 8yo son would flip out for this dessert!

By leaving early (although not really terribly early as it was already after 6PM) and everything was running late, I missed a number of potentially interesting presentations that were slated including a conference entitled, "Blogs, a new era for gastronomy reviews." Fortunately, eGullet Society member and Specialist, Rogelio was a participant in the conference. Hopefully, he will be able to fill us in on what transpired there.

[docsconz]

I've spent the better part of my day searching for notes and a menu from the dinner I attended on the third night of Madrid Fusion at the real cafe at RealCafé Bernabeu at Stadium Santiago Bernabeu, the home of Reál Madrid and several other quality restaurants and finally found it!

This dinner was one cooked entirely by some of Spain's finest women chefs, several of whom I was acquainted with from the Spain and the World Table conference in California and another from Catalonia of whom I had heard good things. They did not disappoint and neither did my table mates who included amongst others Pedro Subijana, Anya von Bremzen, independent journalist Barry Yourgrau, John Radford and Aida Mollenkamp from Chow.com, winemaker Andrew Halliwell from the dinner sponsor Codorniu and several others.

I got there late so missed the time for cocktails. Instead, i sat down with some cava and fine company with Barry Yourgrau to my left and Andrew Halliwell to my right. The first course was brought out promptly.

Oyster with menthol simple syrup with granita of Pinot Noir de Codorniú - Maria Carmen Velez

This simple preparation of a large Galician oyster was right up my alley, though amazingly to me there was more than one at the table who were not fans of oysters, any oysters. While my favorite way of eating a good oyster is by itself with a little lemon, this worked nicely.

Bravas con Azafran - Maria Jose San Roman

I am a big fan of Maria Jose San Roman, having had the pleasure to dine at her restaurant Monastrell last May. This dish was an example of why. Seemingly a simple dish, it is difficult to do well. This hit the spot for me with enough saffron to matter and not so much as to overwhelm the dish.

Coca de Cigalas - Montse Estruch

A coca is a traditional catalan dish, in fact, commonly considered the Catalan version of pizza as it typically has toppings served on a baked crust. This was not your typical coca, though it did have a crust. Basically, I am a sucker for anything with cigalas. Estruch, perhaps the most celebrated Catalan woman chef only after Carme Ruscalleda, was working with a wounded hand having cut herself earlier. I wouldn't have been able to tell.

Lubina roasted with litchis, ficoide glaciale, mini acelga roja and cherry sauce - Maria Carmen Velez

This was simply one of the best courses that I had all week. The fish was cooked perfectly and the combination with the cherry was simply brilliant!

Artisanal Spanish Cheese Course - Maria Jose San Roman

I find that very few chefs really do composed cheese courses notably well, especially with more than one cheese at a time. The only time I have ever had one on a par with this was Carme Ruscalleda's at Sant Pau.

Naranja y anaranjados - Maria Jose San Roman

Perfectly refreshing and satisfying.

The evening's brilliant cocineras: The Velez sisters, Mari-Carmen and Lola on each end, with Maria Jose San Roman and Montse Estruch in the middle.

Thanks and congratulations

The cocineras along with Esmeralda Capel, Oscar Caballeros and Pedro Subijana

This was a lovely end to the third night of Madrid Fusión and the last of the Press dinners that I would attend this conference.

[docsconz]

Alfredo Russo

Still unable to get any good sleep the night before, I was unable to make it to he first session of the final morning that included Benito Gómez and Ramón Freixa discussing "Eating with your fingers: tapas in the table." I did, however, make it for the second session on "Contemporary Cuisine with roots in the past: Modernity and tradition in a dish," by Alfredo Russo and Jean-Francois Píege. Russo went first.

Russo is spiritual kin to Daniel Patterson as he too is interested in working with essences" of ingredients. He showed video of how he creates garlic essential oil and in fact passed some out to the audience.

Russo looked to recreate certain traditional dishes with a modern touch. His first dish was a take on bagna cauda using garlic, anchovies and winter vegetables, but in a slightly different way. Russo obtained his garlic essence by using a rotating evaporator. The principle difference between his version and the traditional is that his is not served hot and is served with the garlic essence misted over the anchovies and vegetables.

Es-sence of Fresh garlic with anchovies and winter vegetables

Russo also presented a couple of other dishes.

Lawn soup with orange

This dish actually used fresh lawn grass (seen on the side) mixed with orange and sheep's milk ricotta. The warmed soup is poured atop orange jelly, the ricotta, orange and a lightly toasted piece of bread. Intriguing.

Chicken tortellini in brodo

This was a traditional egg yolk based pasta that was very heavy on the yolks. It was stuffed with chicken and served in a chicken broth.

[docsconz]

In between Russo's presentation and the next, several awards were presented by the Madrid Chamber of Commerce for 'Excellence in Tourism."

David Muñoz received the "Chef of the year" award from Salvador Santos Campano, Chairman of the Chamber of Commerce.

Other winners included:

• - Restaurant of the Year: Kabuki Wellington, represented by José Antonio Aparicio
  - Maître of the Year: María José Monterrubio (Restaurante Chantarella)
  - Sommelier of the Year: Ruth Cotroneo (Restaurante Senzone)
  - Lifetime career: José Jiménez Blas and Custodio López Zamarra
  

The following presentation was done out of order from the original schedule...

[docsconz]

Juan Marie Arzak

Arzak, who probably needs no introduction to this audience, certainly did not need one to that audience either as he came up out of turn. The reverence for Arzak in that auditorium was truly palpable, second only to his good friend Adria. I will provide fair warning for anyone who is not a fan of the man or his work. I have a lot of photos of Arzak and will be putting them up over multiple posts. Feel free to gloss over them, however, I am a big fan of this marvelous man and will not be glossing over him or his presentation. I will not, though, continue with this tonight.

[docsconz]

At various times during his demonstration, Arzak mixed bits of philosophy, cooking and history to keep the enthralled audience more than satisfied.

Arzak started his discussion by completing the clarion tri-call for creative liberty started by Adria, continued by Subijana and now finished with a flourish. While he didn't really add anything new to the discussion, Arzak spoke with the weight of authority, experience and respect. His ardor and earnestness were apparent for all to see.

[docsconz]

Arzak discusses something briefly with his long-time sous chef, Igor Zalakain

Arzak took the opportunity to answer some critics who claim that the quality of ingredients at Arzak is not what they were in the past. He dismissed that as being ridiculous, saying that the restaurant has access to and sources some of the very best product available.

[docsconz]

Arzak moved on to food. He described the preparations while Zalakain put the plates together.

The dish pictured in the photo above was "Hake with White Clay" Much like Aduriz' clay coated potatoes, Arzak has used inert clay in a dish for additional "earthiness" and body. The overall image of the dish is otherworldly. An additional element of interest used in this dish is powdered freeze-dried hake added to the hake prior to the fish being grilled. The Arzaks use this technique to enhance flavor. The dish is plated with a clay "stick" topped with bleached parsley leaves, "green" sauce and hake cheek juice.

[docsconz]

Olive oil and Lobster

The white element under the lobster is a solid preparation of olive oil made with maltodextrin and virgin olive oil. The recipe called for 50gr. of maltodextrin and 30ml of olive oil to be combined and held at room temperature. I don't know how they get its ultimate effect as the recipe is not detailed enough for that. If anyone knows, I would be grateful. The dish is finished with a red safflower sauce, a lobster sauce and citrus and tapioca salad.

[docsconz]

Alfredo Russo enjoying Arzak's presentation after just having given his own. It's nice to be able to relax.

Edited February 27, 2008 by docsconz (log)

[docsconz]

Arzak demonstrated through a video a machine and technique that they use for precision, decorative cutting using a laser jigsaw.

I doubt that we will be seeing too many of these nifty devices in too many restaurant kitchens any time soon!

[docsconz]

Floating Stones

These edible "stones" and soup are an example of Arzak's fascination of late with "Earth" and earth products like "sands", distilled earth and clay. Unfortunately, I do not recall the details of the preparation, though it is visually exciting with the black light background.

Edited to add: I found some notes. The "stones" of this dish were made of white and dark chocolate and they were swimming in an orange flavored liquid. The light made the liquid fluoresce.

Edited February 28, 2008 by docsconz (log)

[chickenfriedgourmet]

Olive oil and Lobster

The white element under the lobster is a solid preparation of olive oil made with maltodextrin and virgin olive oil.  The recipe called for 50gr. of maltodextrin and 30ml of olive oil to be combined and held at room temperature. I don't know how they get its ultimate effect as the recipe is not detailed enough for that. If anyone knows, I would be grateful. The dish is finished with a red safflower sauce, a lobster sauce and citrus and tapioca salad.

←

I "think" that they probably passed the mixture through a Tammis to fluff it up. I only know this thanks to Chad from http://www.chadzilla.typepad.com

[docsconz]

Olive oil and Lobster

The white element under the lobster is a solid preparation of olive oil made with maltodextrin and virgin olive oil.  The recipe called for 50gr. of maltodextrin and 30ml of olive oil to be combined and held at room temperature. I don't know how they get its ultimate effect as the recipe is not detailed enough for that. If anyone knows, I would be grateful. The dish is finished with a red safflower sauce, a lobster sauce and citrus and tapioca salad.

←

I "think" that they probably passed the mixture through a Tammis to fluff it up. I only know this thanks to Chad from http://www.chadzilla.typepad.com

←

That certainly makes sense, though the recipe in the program (Each chef provides two recipes) does not give this level of detail. Thanks for the insight.

[docsconz]

Arzak finished with a short dissertation on the evolution of cooking with directions into either a more traditional style or a creative one. Within the latter, he essentially plugged the term coined by Catalan journalist, Pau Arenós, called "Technoemotional Cuisine." Per a private communication, I found out that Restaurant magazine considers the term a significant improvement over anything that preceded it to describe the cooking of the Vanguardia. In their words:

It's a good term, much better than molecular gastronomy, because it suggests that the advances in science have to be tempered with, or driven by, an appeal to the senses

[docsconz]

Just one more photo of Arzak for good measure.

[docsconz]

Jean-Francois Piege

Piege, the celebrated young chef of Les Ambassadeurs in Paris and a protege of Ducasse, likes to use a palette of what he considers "flavors of memory." What is clear is his artistry and classical brilliance, all while still bringing a creative approach to his food. He has stated, "There are no such things as nouvelle or classic cuisine, for me there is just good and bad cooking, and I consider myself, above all else a chef of my time."

In the photo above, Piege is wrapping a cylinder of bread to be lightly toasted.

Preparing lobster for his dish

Piege fills his toast cylinder with the lobster then siphons in cream mixed with Parmesan and smoked bacon.

He adorns it with leaves to arrive at...

...this.

Note the small swirls of sauce on either side of the plate. That is Piege's signature with a variation on each plate that he serves.

The other plate that Piege prepared was a deconstructed Spaghetti carbonara.

Piege actually made a tube from indiviual strands of spaghetti to elevate the pasta in form.

The signature on the plate.

Spaghetti Carbonara

Within the tube of pasta is a block of cream and Parmesan that has been gelled with agar-agar. Located on the side is pork belly. Of interest are his nontraditional uses of mustard with this dish s well asthe herbal sauce atop the pasta. I was sitting next to Alfredo Russo as this was presented. he watched with interest and a small smile at the corner of his mouth.

Both dishes

I had company.