MelBee's [KC]

[Aaron Deacon]

There are a couple places we've tried in our time here that don't seem to have their own thread. One is MelBee's.

MelBee’s is not too far from us, walkable even for suburban KC. I love having a place like MelBee’s on Johnson Drive, in that old school Main Street strip a few blocks away. I would love it even more if it were someplace like MelBee’s but not actually MelBee’s.

It was either December or January when we ate dinner there, many months now. We’ve also eaten there for lunch a few times. I’ve tried to write a post about this place several times, and it’s just not easy to do.

They showcase the works of local artists. They have regular wine dinners. They're doing some joint promotion with the Lyric Opera . They change their menu seasonally. They try so hard, they mean so well, I feel like they’re very earnest about what they’re trying to do….and yet the food just falls flat to me.

It’s been long enough that I can’t recount specific dishes, but I just get the feeling there’s not a very deft hand, not much finesse in the kitchen. It’s hard to say how much this is to accommodate Johnson County tastes. When we got our four or five course tasting menu, we couldn’t believe how much food was included. In response to customer demand, they’ve now added “hearty portions” at something of an upcharge. What are you gonna do?

There were some good bites, to be sure, but more that were just a little confusing. Plates were covered in sauce. The menu reads well. I was excited to try dinner here. But the flavors don’t pop on the plate like they do on the page. They’re the kind of dishes that, on first bite, you think, “Hey, that’s pretty good”…and by the end of the dish you’re worn down to the point of “What were they thinking…this is a really weird dish.” I’m not sure if that makes sense. It’s certainly an odd thing to experience.

And the desserts are flat-out not very good, small, and expensive.

Despite everything above, I have been back (and will continue) to be back for lunch. There is somewhat less damage you can do to a sandwich. There was a simple pan-fried fish special that was quite good. The soups (like the entrées) can similarly overpower you by the end, but the bowl that you get at lunch is small, so the problem is not so great.

I’m attracted by the changing daily lunch special of a “two-course prix fixe” for $8.95 (soup or salad and fixed entrée, changing daily). Really actually a pretty good deal. But mostly, I feel an obligation to support the existence of this type of establishment on Johnson Drive, in Mission, KS. I really love that it’s there. I wish it were someplace else.

MelBee's

6120 Johnson Drive

Mission, KS 66202

913-262-6121

http://www.kansascitymenus.com/melbees/

[moosnsqrl]

I've not been under the current chef but experienced similar angst at wanting to like it more than I was able to in the past. You're right - I like everything about it except all-too-often the food on the plate. And we used to stop for a martini and an appetizer occasionally but the last time I did that their martinis (while good and large-ish) were $9 or 10 and with the app and tip I decided I could shake my own cocktails chez moi.

I'm still occasionally pulled in that direction (I blame my car) but I always manage to talk myself out of it. There are other places that offer more reliable results at the same or lower price point.

[Milt]

We have eaten at MelBee's once - on our next to last visit to KC. Last month, we tried several other places. I too cannot remember just exactly what we were served, but we three had the prix fixe meal. My adult son is very limited in his taste, but he thoroughly enjoyed his lamb chops. The rest he picked at. My wife and I both were very impressed with our meals and plan on returning on a future trip. On our trip, we shared our three desserts and (as I recall) all liked the same dessert best. Just the same, our one experience was very positive.

[ulterior epicure]

Thanks, Milt, for your update. I've not been to MelBee's in a long while and have been wondering what is up over there. Hope you enjoyed your trip through the Heartland!