TN: Dinner wines

[Florida Jim]

Diane made hash out of onions, garlic, potatoes, white beans, tomatoes and Swiss chard and then grilled some chicken sausages and sliced them into the hash. We turned the air-conditioning down low (a simulated FL winter for such cold weather fare) and opened the 2002 Allemand, Cornas, which was brilliant with the meal. It’s smoky, meaty and terroir driven (although sometimes I wonder if that terroir is Cornas or Allemand) with a worsted texture, excellent grip and complexity, and, a long, mouthwatering finish. Perhaps, not a wine for long-term aging but this will surely develop over the next ten plus years if I can keep my hands off. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $35. We don’t finish many bottles in one sitting these days, but we did this one.

I would buy this again at the price.

To accompany grilled chicken with spinach pesto, grilled asparagus and wild rice we chose the 2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées, which started out its usual approachable and lithe self but tightened-up during the next hour or so. One of my favorite white wines, this has depth, cut, gradations of flavor and texture, and, a freshness akin to recently bleached sheets. But I think this is starting to close down a bit so I will hold my stash for a couple years. Very nice with the food; its 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $7 on sale – I bought a lot but still, not enough.

On day two this was more generous, supple and had a distinct white pepper tone that’s really attractive.

I would buy this again at twice the price – or more.

The 2005 Philippe Colin, Bourgogne was our choice along side pasta with olives, veggies, feta and pine nuts and it was a delightful match. This wine has substance, especially for its designation, but it is also beautifully balanced and sappy. Expansive nose of mostly dark fruit, satin textured and mouth-filling and a longer than expected finish. A concentrated wine without being intense or over-bearing and ready now. 12.8%, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $15.

On day two and three, this continues to develop with deep, etched fruit, good grip and evolving balance; it’s even more compelling on day three.

I would buy this again at the price and its worth even more. The best under $20 bottle of pinot I have tasted in quite some time.

Grilled chicken with spinach pesto again to night (this is really good stuff) with mashed potatoes and peas lets us try out the 2005 Rafeal Palacios, Louro Do Bolo, which is godello from the Valdeorras region of Spain. Scented with lime, honey, resin, cream soda and a bitter almond element which carries through on the palate, it’s viscous, full flavored and the bitter almond note really carries the wine through its long finish. Sensational with the meal and still very interesting afterwards. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $13.

I would buy it again at the price.

Among friends we opened the N/V Eric Bordelet, Poiré Granit, a sparkling pear cider. It certainly smells and tastes of pears and has a dry, almost crisp quality to it that keeps it from cloying but ultimately, this is a little too much (read too sweet) for more than a single glass. 4% alcohol, imported by Jon David Headrick Selections and about $20.

I would not buy it again.

Best, Jim