TN: Wines for a Francophile

[Florida Jim]

2005 Denis Jamain, Reuilly Pinot Gris Rosé:

Barely a blush of color; lovely floral and fruit scents; richer fruit than expected with good cut on the palate, 12.5% alcohol and nice persistence. Yummy with Asian salad. About $15, imported by Kermit Lynch and worth the price.

1989 Edmunds St. John, Les Côtes Sauvages (magnum):

53% mourvèdre, 24% grenache, 17% syrah and 6% carignan; world class nose with lots of bottle bouquet, nuance and secondary development; ripe red fruit, broth, dried herbs and remarkable complexity in the mouth with fresh flavors, supple textures and total integration; a long finish. Tasted over two days and while in got rounder and slightly fuller on day two, it lost nothing in verve. Surely the best Rhône style wine I have tasted from California and the equal of all but the greatest from CdP. Decanted off substantial sediment that coated the walls of the bottle, 13.1% alcohol, price unknown. Thanks Steve.

2005 Philippe Colin, Bourgogne:

Just plain Wow! A terrific, 12.8% abv Burgundy with depth, flesh, cut, grip and sustain. Beautiful (and distinctly) pinot noir that will last several years in the cellar but is lively and rewarding today. Imported by Kermit Lynch, about $18 and I’ll buy it by the case.

2002 Overnoy, Arbois Pupillin:

Poulsard is a grape I have come to love; idiosyncratic in its color, aroma and flavor, it is not for everyone. But this wine makes me smile and keeps my attention. Pomegranate may be the closest descriptor but it is accented by mineral and earthy tones and has a dryness that is very appealing. Imported by Louis/Dressner, about $21 and I bought plenty.

A few brief thoughts on some 2005 Beaujolais Cru wines:

Chignard, Fleurie:

Needs 10 hours in the decanter to show at all at this stage; best left in the cellar for several years. $21.

Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie:

Shutting down, although the worsted texture and deep fruit are still evident; another multi-year cellar candidate. $20.

Tete, Julienas Domaine du Clos du Fief:

Still showing very nicely; a very polished rendition of the vintage with a pure core and nice light earth tones; drink or hold. $18.

Foillard, Morgon:

Also showing well now; very smooth and texturally appealing but without the vigor of the Tete. Others will feel differently, but I think this a second tier wine in this vintage (although still a good one). $26.

Best, Jim