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Yes, i do have lots to catch up on. I seem to have forgotten I have a blog as well..... I'll get back on the wagon soon I hope. There are time and place for both provincial and metropolitan, I believe. Some may argue that in general the three stars in Paris are better than those in the country side, at least technique-wise. And to that I might not disagree, but the thing that's hard to take away from the provicial places - the great ones at least - is how incredibly "situated" they are. And by situate I mean how they so fit into local terroir so very perfectly. You could see it at Bras, at Roellinger, at Troigros, at Buerehiesel, and many other places. It would be entirely impossible to take La Maison de Bricourt away from Brittany, as it will be like taking the soul away from the place. Parisien two-three stars are much less connected to the land and much more, by definition, metropolitan.

I was just there a couple weeks ago. I stayed at the hotel but there were people at our table who were locals and were not hotel guests. I could go back every week to have an entree of the colorful Gargouillou and a plat of the Gauloise Blanche, simply poached then roasted, and served with a side of Pomme Aligote. Those dishes were perfection defined, entirely impossible to improve upon. Again I hope I will get around to writing a full review soon.

learn something new everyday, thanks. Joselito is certainly the best I've had, and incidentally it's the brand that Robuchon serves at both L'Atelier and La Table in Paris. Unfortunately they've taken to pre-slicing and keeping the slices in the fridge prior to serving, a serious disrespect for this marvelous ingredient.

I was just there a couple weeks ago, and found it truly lovely. This was my first trip to Bretagne but it has become my favorite area of France. I'll get around to writing the full review soon.

I would also add Gaig in that group, despite the decidedly modern design of the dining room.

If you're really going to go through the trouble of a leg of ham in your suitcase, go all out and get a leg of Jamon Iberico. The brands I know are, in ascending order of quality, Jabugo, Bellotta, and, if you could get it, Joselito (IMO, of course). I am sure they are legions more, those who are more enlightened than I am on this matter could help you out. Do pay attention to brands though, not all iberico hams are created equal.

Yes, the little bookshop inside La Boqueria was really lovely...most books are in Spanish though, too bad I don't speak the language! Well it was still fun to look at some pictures, and there was a small selection in English and French. It's hard to explain where the bookshop is exactly, but it's right across from the big wine shop there.

Yes.

This is precisely the issue. It is far more devious than market forces doing the work, or some odd cheese makers dying of old age. The EU regulations have made it very difficult and less profitable to make raw milk cheese. These regulations cover everything from the cleanliness of the animal, the situation in the farms, to the pasteurization of the milk itself. They have made it nearly impossible for small producers of raw milk cheese to operate due to the high cost of maintaining code and scientific testing required. The EU regulations are also responsible for the state of milk that is used to make the cheese. Most of the milk produced under these rules is too “clean” to be proper for cheese making. Milk is a fragile ecology, “clean” milk is as good as dead liquid. Nothing will grow in it. Another problem is the changing nature of dairy industry in Europe. The trend toward large dairy farms is edging many breeds of cow closer and closer to extinction. In the 1950's, there were at least 30 common breeds of milk producing cows in Europe. Currently there are five, the most predominant being the “milk factory” Holstein. This shortage of diverse milk source has a strong effect on cheese making. The respect for the terroir is diminishing from the disappearing diversity of cows. How very sad!

The Pré-salé lamb is fantastic. Our old friend Degusto recently posted on it at his and Vedat's new blog, Gastroville. I'm going to Rollinger in next week. I've heard many good things, but haven't been there myself, so I am understandably very excited.

I made it up, that press release, I made the entire thing up. Yes, busted, or, Buxed, shall I say. Actually, the press release was what Michelin sent out to, yes, the press. Perhaps there were indeed inaccuracies, but I couldn't be arsed to look through the entire guide, especially since at the time of that post on the blog, February 23, 2005, the guide itself had not been officially released yet. I may be many things, but clairvoyant I certainly am not. My apology if I misled anyone, I merely assumed, as one does, that a press release out of Michelin about Michelin's own guide would be accurate.

These photos are wonderful, Adam. Thanks.

Which must be a new variation on Chinese torture, putting some restaurants in anxious limbo at different levels. This really looks like Michelin searching for new and subtle ways to strenghthen its power through new and subtle kinds of blackmail, as a "we'll show you who's boss" reaction to recent attacks on its credibility (and big mistakes like the latest Belgian joke). ← Perhaps, but I could also see that it is some sort of response to the long standing demand for Michelin to have more classes than simply 1-2-or-3 stars. Adding the espoir designate seems like a gentle way to introduce more detailed delineation between these classes.

Yes, but some people would share this thought, some not. Personally I do not. That the Pourcels may not be worth three stars is a possibility, not a universal agreement. All I mean is that "tout le monde savait...", "everybody knew", is not the kind of judgement I expect from a journalist. I only wish he had taken personal responsibility for it. ← I agree with Ptipois, resorting to tout le monde savait is a dig that's rather uncalled for. I've never been to Régis Marcon, but I have heard good things from someone whose palate I trust. I'll be at Bras in a few weeks, and perhaps will make a detour to try it for myself. I agree with Simon's astonishment about Darroze though, I've had wildly inconsistent meals there that at times made me wonder about the 2-star status. PS. Here's a copy of the press release. I blogged about it a couple days ago.

I've gone back since that meal that I wrote up on the blog, and was impressed still. While the guide is not out until next week, the secrets are (in the form of press release). Unfortunately they didn't get the third star this year, perhaps something about being a new team yet at this kitchen, but they were distinguished from the pack of 2-stars by the new designation "espoir", which is given to restaurants that are not only better than the other in the same class, but also represent the hopes of the gastronomy world of tomorrow. The espoirs designated restaurants are -by all appearances- the ones to watch for a star promotion. A huge congrats to them.

Well, this is an interesting issue I guess. I didnt' mean to offend anyone, my apology if I did. I am just saying what I know. And it's not that I am against experimentation and substitution, it's just that there has got to be a line somewhere. I mean, would a Casoulet be a Cassoulet without any beans? I'm not entirely sure where the line is myself, but it's one of those--you know, when the line is crossed and you just know it. Mint in Tom Yum Goong would be the same thing, it just has no place in that dish. Traditionally, there is a certain code on what spices and herbs go into certain dishes. Different types of curries, for example, are not only differentiated by color -as in red or green curry- but the spices and herbs that comprise each one. There is also a certain rule about what type of meat could go into each type of curry, you would never see a Massaman Fish in Thailand for example, because that particular curry paste is to be used with meat or chicken. You won't find Massaman Pork either, because the curry is a Thai muslim dish and so using pork is simplly sacrilege. Of course you are allowed to put lemongrass in your salad, but why call it a Laab when there is a proper name for that type of salad with lemongrass and mint, it is called Yum or Pla. Or if you use tamarind in place of lime juice and leave out the ground rice, it would become a Koy. Not that there's anything wrong with adding whatever pleases you into your own food, not at all, it will certainly be as delicious even if I don't think it's a laab anymore.

I have seen several Laab recipes from trusted sources with lemongrass in the ingredients. Wouldn't that fall under the category of "something that you have to go by your own taste", and doing taste tests, to go with what you like most? And Thai basil or whatever kind of basil too, for that matter... ← No, lemongrass has no place in Laab, period. Never. Nor do basils, not Grapow or Holy Basil, nor Horapa or Thai Basil. It's not a matter of taste, it's a matter of what comprises a particular salad called Laab. The key herb for Laab is sawtooth herb actually. Mint is ok, but sawtooth herb is really key to what makes a salad a Laab. Adding lemongrass would turn the salad into a Yum or a Pla. Still tastes just fine I am sure, but it ain't laab anymore. Oh, and while I am at it, Laab also uses dried chili instead of fresh.

The thing about fish sauce or Nam Pla... Tiparos is a very old, very common Thai brand. I use it actually, I've always used it and like it just fine. I think it's something that you have to go by your own taste. Why not buy a few recommended brands and just do a taste test and go with what you like most? I often find too much Nam Pla, especially in more delicate seafood salads (yum) or soups (tom), could result in a dish that is out of balance or too fishy. What I do is when I make the dressing, I start with using Nam Pla until I get the Nam Pla flavor that I want, and then if I still need more saltiness I would add salt instead of using more Nam Pla.

Sawaddee Kha (for women) Sawaddee Krub (for men)

Mint, yes, but never Thai Basil in larb, and -gasp- never lemongrass either.

I've heard good things about this place from very reputable sources. I've been meaning to try but haven't made it yet. Soon I hope.

Of course the French Laundry and Manresa, no question. Despite my very recent disappointing meal, I still found enough fascinating sparks on the tasting menu at Campton Place that I would say warrant at least another look in. I plan to go again -yes, yes not on a Monday this time. I also due for another trip to Mina as well, didn't like it last time but I thought I'd give them another chance too, perhaps next time I'll try the tasting menu there and see how they do.

If you ended up doing dinner at Le Meurice Friday night (which I think is a much more fabulous idea than a lunch at Jardin d'hiver), perhaps you should see about doing lunch at Les Ambassadeurs so as to vary your venues a bit, no?

I think Hélène Darroze is wildly inconsistent. I've had lovely meals, but also pretty awful ones. I was at Flora a few months back, the meal was so blah that I couldn't even bring myself to writing about it, niether here or on my blog. My friend Clotilde wrote about it on hers though, you could read the review on her blog: Chocolate & Zucchini.