Bux

As I recall from the GaultMillau description, L'Huitiere might well be exactly the sort of place tourists would love to see. It's where generations of Lille's residents have celebrated their special events and business men have conducted their lunches in a restaurant that's not changed. It appears to be a venerable living museum. As Lille is not a city visited by many toursts. I suspect most of the diners are local.

I've thought the diner's journal was meant to report on relatively new restaurants considered interesting or important enough to warrant more than a notice, but not ready to be reviewed. Perhaps more correctly, one which the reviewer was not ready to review for any number of reasons including a limited number of meals there.

We are off topic, but can you tell me that the white chocolate is unsweetened. I'd prefer no answer to one that tells me there's sugar in this. Sorry, I just finished writing a note about why I disliked dinner at one French bistro and a local meal of soft shell crab in candy orange sauce is still a cloying memory.

Understandably so. This may well be the single corner of France totally ignored by gastronomes. Picardy the the north of France probably have the largest gap of unmarked space in the Michelin star map. This just piques my perverse curiosity about what's there. That, word of mouth about Lille as a cultural city (or at least news of it's still rather new modern museum) and an interest in visiting a friend in Belgium all contribute.

Following that professional post, I'll have to be careful not to say much that makes my taste buds appear numb. I may even be justified in worrying that my questions appear stupid, but here goes. Chocolate may mean one thing or different things to different people, but chocolates are something else and there are different kinds. I'm prepared for good arguments as stereotyping is always a sure way to get into trouble. I think of Belgian chocolates (and I think the Belgians refer to them as pralines) as filled with delicate butter creams and as having a very short shelf life. There are artisanal Belgian chocolates, factory made Belgian chocolates and way down the list there are factory chocolates made in the USA under license from a Belgian factory such as Godiva (look at the label, see where they're made). I think of French chocolate as a more intensely chocolate product stressing chocolate rather than filling. Bernachon in Lyon is a prime example. These have a geater shelf life as long as they're well kept. Of course the French and the Belgians make both sorts, but the French also seem to use less cocoa butter. Bernachon's chocolates are often too intense to gobble. It's serious stuff. Perhaps it's a question of emphasis and possibly my own mistaken impression. The preference for one or the other may be a matter of taste. Some of the best chocolates I've had have been Teuscher in Zurich. I've been pleased with the ones I've had here as well. A Belgian friend visiting the city once gave me two boxes of Belgian chocolates. They were excellent although I was told she wouldn't dare subject the best artisanal chocolates to the conditions of a flight. The Godiva chocolates were not the better of the two, but they were definitely a cut above the Godiva one buys here. I forget the other brand, but it was also well known here.

I seem to recall reading that the French Laundry discouraged, or did not allow diners to bring their own bottle. Of course if you own Araujo or Colgin or something like that, you can probably get away with it as long as the restaurant continues get a share of your out put.

Danielle, We're planning a drive from Lille to Paris after visiting friends in Belgium. I assume the Alliance Couvent des Minimes is the one the GaultMillau refers to as Alliance Golden Tulip and the MIchelin just shows as Alliance? We were planning using the Carlton, which I understand is a Concorde hotel. We've had good experiences with the Concorde group and have a good relationship with them. Is the modern museum accessible by public transportation or would it be good to pick up our car first? We're thinking of doing a lot of sightseeing on the trip and will take a few days. Unfortunately I don't see much along the way in terms of restaurants. I'm glad to hear you liked L'Huitiere. It's only one star and with so few notable restaurants in Picardy and the north, I was afraid it might just be a so so restaurant, though GM gives it a nice write up. I'm also interested in the Meurin in Béthune about 40 k outside of Lille. Two stars, 17 in GM and a nice write up.

I must say you've got an enviable list of reservations. It would appear that budget is not a problem, but I thought I'd throw in that in Annecy, we stayed at L'Imperial Palace, rather than Veyrat's guest house. A propos the discussion in another thread, Veyrat's Auberge de l'Eridan must reign supreme for comfort for all the inns that are shown as restaurants with rooms. Elsewhere on this board, I've noted my appreciation of Amat's St. James in Bouliac just across the river from Bordeaux. The hotel is ultra-modern and designed by Jean Nouvel architect of the Lyon Opera house renovation, the Cartier Foundatin in Paris among other buidlings. In many ways his designs are not always practical, nor have the contractors been up to delivering as they should, but his work is an experience. The food is better than one star would indicate, as is the service on our two visits. I've not been to a few of your choices, but they're all on my wish list for the future. Hopefully for the not too distant future. I look forward to your comments when you return. Bon Appetit.

I hate that more than anything else, having to use words as they're commonly understood instead of forcing people to accept my meaning. ;)In a collage art history class, on the final exam I used "abstract" as I wanted, clearly and consistenly defining the word to support my meaning rather than the professor's. Guess who didn't do too well on that exam.

All of that is worthy of some answer and all of it is germane to the general discussion, if reaching in different directions. I didn't find the art in cheesesteaks, although I think it takes some experience in any form to be a connoisseur. I suspect that after a half dozen different varieties I would be able to discuss the various relative merits. Unfortunately, I didn't find the first one interesting enough to have a desire to go further. As I mentioned in the Philadelphia board, I'd check out the sandwich Cubano around the corner, before looking for another cheesesteak. My companions, two of whom were food pros with lots of haute cuisine experience, were less interested in dismissing the cheesesteak than in reforming it by suggesting the whole thing be pressed and grilled like a Cuban sandwich or panino and marinating the "steaks." They agreed that the Cuban sandwich on Eighth Avenue off 19th Street was a much more satisfying sandwich combining cheese and meat, but it's worth noting that we recognized the institution of the cheesesteak and made a beeline for one, rather than dismissing it out of any prejudice. I'm not sure if any of this merits the pinning of any label outside of "genuinely curious." I'd like to think most of us are able to appreciate a great range of tastes far beyond our personal preferences, although we're all apt to have blind spots and prejudices about how we spend our time and money. I believe there's no book or film not worth reading or seeing, but we won't read or see them all, so we make decisions about choice. I've probably been as outspoken as any about 90 day wonderchefs. Not all French chefs are geniuses, and not all American chefs are short on technique, but most of the over reaching 90 day wonders are American trained. That there is no room for culinary stretching in the world of hot dogs, fried clams and chicken fried steak is surely no argument that it is a better world. Fried clams are not so different from any fried food and some of the best friend food I've had has been in haute cuisine restaurants. I can relate two stories of fried fish in white table cloth restaurants in France that stand out over many spectacular dishes. I'm happy to say that one complimentary plate served as an amuse bouche came from a Michelin two star restaurant shortly before it achieved its third star. I'd like to think that plate of finger food played a part.

That's probably an apt definition, although the word won't be limited in that way by many who use it as either a positive or negative description. Many will apply it to those who in any way are likely to visit even some hot new restaurants. Anyone who even keeps an ear to the ground about new restaurants or follows the careers of some chefs will inevitably be labeled a foodie by others. Undoubtably, I've been called a foodie. I suspect Fat Guy has as well. An interest in hot dogs, or even cheesesteak sandwiches will not save you. It's just another kind of foodie. It's easier to smile at the term than get into an argument about semantics.If dining in restaurants is interesting, then new restaurants are always going to be a source of fascination or at least curiosity. Clearly some new restaurants are so far outside my interest that I am not tempted, but when eveyone is talking about some new place, there is always that desire to enter the conversation with a first hand opinion and so we (choose your word) go and take a look. Serious connoiseurs of contemporary art have to see the art they may dismiss, and those who take restaurants seriously may feel the need to experience the new restaurant. One doesn't loose one's art credentials by looking. One shouldn't be dismissed for an interest in what's happening in the food world as well.

"Chow" has a sort of reverse snobbism connotation to me. It's the word used to refer to military food, which many consider an oxymoron in the class with miitary intelligence. It's also used by a major animal feed purveyor with the resulting connotation of feed, as in animals feed, people eat, and (you name the word--I like connoiseur, but epicure, gourmet and gourmand have served well at various times in various cultures) dine. Thus "chowhound" seems to imply one searching, perhaps desperately, not to dine, but to feed. I don't mind stuffing a hot dog or slice of pizza in my mouth and am not above comparing various vendors of the same, but it's not the end of my search for food. I do however agree with your opinion of "foodie." I think the suffix tends to designate a follower. "Hound" at least tends to imply a searcher. Far better in my opinion, even if I'm not in agreement with the goal. This however, is upset at Leff's site where there is an "alpha-dog" leader and where dissent is severely limited so that the houndies prolierate, but that's of more interest to socialogists than epicures or food connoiseurs.

I thought I've bought duck hearts in Chinatown, but my wife says I've only brought home chicken hearts. I'll have to check the next time I'm down there.

The rich, the famous, the infamous, the baby in his diaper sleeping in his stoller, the sweet young thing in basic black with pearls, the latina poured into and overflowing out of her low cut dress, the tourists from Dubuque, the kids on a big date in a Mahattan French restaurant, media stars getting a quick bite, they all look like they belong there and suprisingly, they don't cause me to want to leave. It's also well lit so you can see them all. It's well lit like an old Horn and Hardard cafeteria, or like a real brasserie ought to be.

Biarritz is a cosmopolitan outpost, but already in the Basque Coast and well away from Bordeaux. Between the two cities is Les Landes an area I associate with Gascony and the Dordogne, if only for the foie gras. It is somewhat like a western extension of Gascony. Bordeaux seems coastal although it's about fifty miles from the ocean. Maybe it's the width of the Garonne River that make it seem so close to the ocean. It's been said that Bordeaux traditionally hasn't been a city that's hosted three star restaurants largely because the money in the area doesn't like to eat out and prefers to entertain at home with private chefs. I'm sure it's a far more complex issue, but there's some truth in that I suspect. One thinks of Burgundians as jovial fellows with ruddy complexions and blue overalls drinking at local bar when not in the fields. The Bordelais, on the other hand, especially the chateau owners, conjure up an image of a reserved stiff upper lip above a white collar and tie. Just outside of Bordeaux, we've really enjoyed a few meals at Amat's St. James in Bouliac. Admittedly, it was Jean Nouvel's architecture as much as the food, that drew us there the first time although we only went for lunch while staying in Bordeaux. Whe wwe returned on a later visit, it was to afford us the opportunity of staying in one of the rooms as much as eating there again. Nevertheless, the food was excellent although the first meal, where I ordered the specialties was the more stunning, I thought the rating of only one star was a severe injustice. His bistro on the same premises is also worth a meal if you favor simple good cooking over service and comfort.

I would agree that dress codes are rarely enforced in NYC, although I have seen people offered jackets by the management and I have heard of ties being offered in some places. One's first responsibility is those at one's table. Is this dinner for the two of you or will others be there? In any event, if it matters, you will generally be met with more favorable reaction at a business dinner by overdressing than underdressing. Of course, you may know your companion(s) well enough to dismiss generalities. On the other hand, letting the restaurant know you think it's a place that deserves dressing up for dinner never hurts the service. As to what people wear, I haven't been in Aquavit in a long time. Dress codes are moving towards informality at such a rate that I'd be loathe to guess the number of diners who show up without a jacket. My guess is that jackets will predominate. You might call the restaurant and see how they phrase any code. I once called a restaurant on a hot summer day and asked if ties were required. I received a most politely couched answer -- "We request ties." It was clear I would not be barred without one, but the message was so gracefully delivered that in addition to reassuring me that I didn't need a tie, it convinced me to aspire to their standard.

I strongly disagree with your premise. You seem to imply that we should all appreciate the same things in life. Perhaps in an ideal world, we'd all appreciate everything. Most of don't have the time, money or inclination to develop a taste or even an appreciation for everything. I find fine cuisine and fine dining to be an art form. I could easily make analogies to fine art, folk art and popular or commercial art forms. Just as easily I can make similar analogies to the music world. I suppose the best reinforcement I can get might come from those who can get exceptional pleasure from a well made taco, truly excellent pizza, or maybe even a hot dog (or at least a bratwurst) and still not balk at spending several hundreds of dollars for a dinner at some temple of haute cuisine. The art is there. If it really puzzles you enough, read what others write about it and approach it slowly. If you don't see it, don't worry about it.

I also resisted Balthazar for a long time, although as of this writing I've been there a few times. The limos outside may be offensive to my sense of neighborhood, but I was pleased enough by the food, service and reception. In fact I found the wait staff rather pleasant. On a socialogical level, there's often a fascinating mix of people there. I might say it was at it's best at about eleven pm at night or at least it was interesting the night our dinner plans were delayed by the late arrival of a friend's flight. I like brunch there the best. The blood sausages are terrific, if you like that sort of thing. I do. It can be noisy.

Okay, I'm not going there on my next trip. I suspect it was not all that long ago that three star restaurants were not expected to offer fireworks, just some sort of luxury and perfection. Nowadays most serious food travelers (got a better term?) look for some creativity or at least a stamp of individuality. Nevertheless, I wonder if the staid and workmanlike places don't do the best business. Not all those who pay that price are ready for fireworks. Am I mistaken or does Veuve Clicquot have some interest in Les Crayères? In either case it makes an excellent place for them to entertain and food that is more noticeable might well distract from the champagne. I assume Boyer's wine list goes well beyond Veuve Clicquot's brand champagne and that for most visitors it might just seem appropriate to drink champagne while in Reims, even if that's not one's custom elsewhere. This could lead to a discussion about drinking local wines or whether those in the wine trade ever get much of an opportunity to dine in the great restaurants that are not in Paris or in the midst of a wine region. Roellinger is but one example. A related question might be about why Bordeaux was never a hot bed of great restaurants.

Well unless you ordered it all at once, I figure it must have been pretty good if you kept on ordering to reach that tab. If it was good, I'd hardly criticize the final price. I love good dim sum.

Gigi's Trattoria went over my head. Actually I thought the restaurant was Giginos or some sort of dinimutive. Maybe it was Gigi's and affectionately referred to by a pet name. I believe the restaurant exists, but I haven't been there. Anyway those were movie paintings. The Four Seasons had tapestries, but in my opinion those were culture not art. It was already second generation stuff. The ideas of established art reproduced as tapestries. Most restaurant have bad art, but lots of restaurants have inoffensive genre art, particularly art related to food including still life painting of food. Leon de Lyon has tons of paintings of cooks and it's quite pleasant as background. I suppose Boyer is not one of the hottest chefs in France, but I think both he and his restaurant are very well respected. Les Crayères is a 19 in GaultMillau. I suppose one of the things that hasn't put it high on my list is that it's part of an inn where the rooms are expensive. I'm far more apt to spring for a outrageously expensive meal than for a more than a moderately priced room. Inns where the rooms are less expensive than the prix fixe meal appeal to me. I don't recall the price at L'Ambroisie, but it was certainly not a budget meal. I seem to recall not finding anything in the way of unknown or country wine buys on the wine list. The food at L'Ambroisie was rather sublime, although some of what we had was very simple -- a lobe of sweetbread studded with truffles and garnished with a single vegetable for instance. A loin of lamb wrapped in phyllo pastry and rolled in truffles seemed a bit like a gilded lily, but my wife said it was wonderful. A dish of langoustines with spinach and curry sauce may sound tame, even considering the thin wafers (sesame?) that almost floated above the plate, but it was one of the most ethereal dishes I've had. We were a bit put off by what I felt was a funereal atmosphere. Everyone in the two dining rooms seemed so hushed and serious and unfortunately almost all were speaking English or Japanese that afternoon.

Speaking of art in restaurants, have you seen Dinner Rush, the movie? It was mentioned in a post in the NY board. I recommend the film, but it should be of special interest to those who follow the restaurant or art worlds of NY.

I didn't read that about L'Esperance (I assume it's Menau's L'Esperance near Vezelay). We ate there a few years ago just before it lost the thrid star. We were not so impressed at the time, but there were extenuating circumstances. My wife was under the weather and I was still digesting some pig's feet dish I had eaten for lunch the previous day. I will admit that the decor did not make a good first impession either. There was too much chrome and glass for a country inn. The view of Meneau's herb and vegetable garden would have justified the extensive glass had they not hung restaurant quality paintings on the glass walls and blocked the view. Nevertheless, when I say we were not impressed, I couch that in terms of one's exaggerated expectations when dining at a three star place. In fact, three star restaurants suffer greatly from that syndrome. When they are superb, they just meet your expectations. It's unfair. I have not been to Boyer. I regard it as a flaw in my character. I know I'll be a better person once I've been there. It's been four years since I've been to Roellinger. At the time I expected it would be getting it's third star anyday. I suspect it may be the service if anything. After refusing an aperatif, I found we were ignored for what seemed like a considerable length of time. in case it's a chronic problem, I would order an aperatif next time. When we started to get service, it was faultless. The meal itself was impressively good. Although the restaurant was highly recommneded, I was told that I might find an excessive use of foreign flavors and spices. I did not find the far ranging seasoning to be excessive. I thought Roellinger had everything under his control and he was the master of whatever he used to create his dishes. We took the tasting menu which began like a Japanese kai seki dinner with bit of things--perhaps a tray consisting of a single mussel, sea snail and maybe a half teaspoon of tartare of fish. Slowly courses increased in size. The final course was the only meat course--two baby lamb chops, naturally raised on the nearby salt marshes. It was a long menu and a real treat. I regret that we've not made it back there. We've had some disappointing meals in Brittany and some wonderful meals as well, but none that quite compared. I also happen to like his hotel very much. Oddly enough his better restaurant is in town and not at his main hotel, but they provide shuttle service back and forth for those quests who do not wish to drive. Anyway, it's a lovely place and decorated with great Breton restraint. Breakfast was copious and memorable. More at WorldTable Brittany July '97 Les Maisons de Bricourt.

That is a robust tab for dim sum. Just knowing that you ran up such a tab makes me want to sample the dim sum there. ;)

Two beers each? That's four beers and dim sum for ű? What am I missing? I had a lunch place near the courts that catered to a non-Chinese clientele, but it was cheap and good. Once I discovered a tip added to my bill. I made a fuss and one of the waitresses who recognized me came over and straightened out my waiter. I went back once or twice, but kept noticing that it had unpleasant vibes and that there were plenty of other places to get a good bowl of noodles a block or two further away.