Bux

I stand corrected on Cantin's shop. It's been a few visits to Paris since I last passed through the neighborhood by day. "Paris-Brest" is the name of the oyster place. I assume the recommended place for Bellota ham is "Bellota-Bellota."

Muffins, by the way, have become very French. They are all over the place, but I've found the French miss the mark the way we often miss the mark on croissants, and I'm not a muffin fan. Maybe it's the fact that I don't love muffins that makes me critical of the bad ones.

For two reasons--it was the best meal we had in the area and almost everything on the menu was new since our last visit--it would be the first place we'd be sure to repeat when we return to the area. Mugaritz would be the second.

Without checking my credit card bills, I recall Can Roca was most reasonable in terms of quality to price and very solidly a two star restaurant on any country's scale and particularly in Catalunya where El Bulli tips the scales. It's a five to seven euro cab ride from downtown Girona to Can Roca.

"Le must" has pretty much been adapted as a French word, at least by the smart set. I can't vouch for the Acadamy. We've had "le Must de Cartier" for some time. It of course means "must have." I think it's actually weirder when it comes back to us in English as the "Must of Mix." No one's saying Ducasse's public relations is helping him on this score are we?

Isidore, the wine recommendations keep us on topic. My own preference is probably for a Sancerre or Pouilly Fume with chevres. Please don't say "Romorantin" as it makes me salivate for a meal there. I had a stewed hare with chocolate in Lion d'Or among other fine dishes and the memory haunts me a year later. This I think, uderlies the problem with cheese in America--this and pasturization. The American consumer seems to demand a consistent product, or at least the American retailer seems to thinking so. Many really consistent cheeses, especially the goat cheese, will never be great and many great cheeses will not be consistent, especially the goats. Even in France some of the cheeses we describe, are best found at the maker or the affineur and not at local shops. Newer EU regulations, I fear, are causing them to disappear from town markets as well. For a while a few years ago, I was buying a fresh American goat cheese and allowing it to ripen naturally under different conditions. More fresh air, less fresh air, in the kitchen, in the refirgierator, etc. The results were haphazard, but often quite rewarding. A batch of cheeses with strange red molds led to my abandonning the project. To expand on my earlier point, all cow and sheep cheeses with which I have famliarity, have a name. The cheesemonger may ask if I want a cow, sheep or goat cheese, but it's only the goat cheeses that are likely to have no other name. I mean that lots of goat cheeses are known as Valencay, Selles sur Chere or more generically as boucherons, but many, probably most, are just chevres no matter how different they are. When my daughter spent a term in Paris, she discovered a cheese shop on Mouffetard and determined to try a new chevre every day, or at least every visit. I don't think she was in Paris long enough.

Impressively descriptive and informative. As a side note to Kim, [soapbox] where I've been involved in real estate transactions--or even just in window shopping--"The bathrooms need renovation" is usually presented as an opportunity to have the kind of bathroom I want, whereas a couple of hundred thousand dollars worth of grotesque marble and gold plated faucets is presented as the luxury of not having to go through the ordeal of dealing with construction and contractors. [/soapbox] Hmm, is that a personal dare? I should think that Psaltis and Ducasse would be fighting over who gets to keep that souvenir. It's not a good idea for a restaurant critic to make a response that could later be described as "poor." I think there's an interesting paradox here because on the surface, it's obviously a restaurant that's not so much designed not with me in mind, but almost designed to keep me away, yet I feel a compelling need to visit. I suspect that it may be just because Ducasse is involved. Therefore, I can't give you any credit for making me want to go, although I suppose your review makes it easier for me to explain why to my friends. I don't think of myself as a fan of Ducasse. I do have a respect for him that's not unbridled, but which grows with each experience with his endeavors and that means that as New Yorker, I have to know first hand what he is doing in my home town. What I draw from your review is what I haven't found elsewhere and that's not so much advice on whether it's a good or bad restaurant, or even the indication of whether it's my kind of restaurant--that's the banality of what most "consumer report" reviews attempt--but some insight into what I will find to appreciate and some understanding of what to look for in preparation of getting the most out of an intended visit. And that's what separates this thread for me, from the others that are about what's lacking in newspapers and journals today. I disagree to some extent to your views about your duty in regard to decor, ambience and music. I don't really care if you think the room is ugly or beautiful. I'm not sure I care all that much whether you think the rood is delicious or not either, that's largely a matter of taste. I think a dining columnist, or restaurant critic, can offer reasons how and why the decor contributes or detracts from the overall dining experience in as objective a way as he can speak about the food. I agree however that your intended audience will place far great value relatively on the food. I for one will suffer an ugly room, or one in a style that offends my sensibilities, for good food. I have little interest spending good money to be in architectural gem where poorly conceived and ill cooked food is served. I may be fascinated enough to have seat at the bar with a beer however.

Follow your nose, well perhaps your eyes, as not all those aromas make it to the street, down St.-Dominique. I believe Cantin is on St.-Dominique and Poujauran is just off and around the corner from Cantin. A good case has been made that Poujauran has the best croissants in Paris and I recall a wonderful flakey swirl of olive oil flavored croissant like pastry. It's a pity they can be so unfriendly as they are excellent bakers and dealing with them should be a pleasure. You should also pass a little place I've heard has great oysters. I prefer muscadet with oysters, but this being New Year's Eve, I'd go with the champagne. Smoked salmon and such delicacies might also be easier to have in your hotel than opening raw oysters. Edit: See below for Anne Marie Cantin's address on a street parallel to St-Dominque a few blocks south. My memory didn't serve me well.

I have had chèvres from small producers in France that brought me to my knees. Any handpainted sign saying "chèvre" is worth following in my estimation. Frequently these appear along the backroads, but once, close to Chenonceau I followed a series of such signs on foot. They were deceptive about the distance and I almost returned before reaching my destination. I almost turned back again when I was "attacked" by an unfriendly dog as opened the gate. Fortunately I was quick to retreat and the farmer appeared in time to my my retreat look foolish. I was led to shack half dug out of the hill where I was grilled as to my preferrences in cheese. I left with one rather "sec" and one quite "moelleux." The dry one was excellent, but the ripe one was one of the cheese experiences of my life. And of course the "name" of each cheese was "chèvre," plain and simple.

I find that when making restaurant reservations in Paris, I tend not to pay much attention to where I'm staying, but when I make last minute choices, I invariably look close to my hotel. There are pros and cons to both methods, but Paris is such an easy city in which to get around that if one wants excellent food, it's not reasonable to limit oneself geographically. When the weather is good, we've enjoyed very long walks back from restaurants late at night. We have no problem using the metro late at night, although they don't run all night long. Cabs are plentiful and a restaurant will be happy to call one for you. There is a caveat about calling for a cab--the meter drops from the time the driver answers the call. I've found that the charge on the meter when the cab arrives is often more than the amount added while I'm in the car. Of course the initial charge accounts for some of this. Enjoy Les Magnolias--I assume that's the reason for your trip to the burbs. I am one of the few who wasn't convinced by my meal there, although I think the chef was serious and talented. It's just that I found his combinations unconvincing. I felt he was still designing each dish, whereas chefs such as Gagnaire and Adria had finished the experimentation and were presenting fully developed works. As I said, others found the food convincing and inspiring, so you should try it with enthusiasm. At worst, it will be stimulating and make you think about food in a serious manner and at best it will be a memorable meal. I think your question about lunch or dinner out of Paris is too vague. For one thing lunch is a far different matter than dinner. Leave at 9:00, have lunch from 13:00 to 16:30 and arrive back in Paris at 21:00 in time for a light dinner, but I don't think you want to have dinner at 21:00 and arrive in Paris eight hours later. So I see two separate questions. Even then, if the destination is a possible day trip, why wouldn't you want to stay overnight? Hotels in Paris are no less expensive than elsewhere in France. You're apt to get more for your money in terms of a hotel room, why rush back to Paris after spending the whole day traveling? Actually, room and board in the provinces is apt to be be a better value. I'm not sure what kind of advice anyone can give about experiencing "more/newer places in short periods of time?" One can graze in Paris today in a way that was relatively unknown a couple of generations ago. There are excellent wine bars, oyster bars, and what I--and Parisians--are apt to think of as tapas bars, but there's only so much one can eat and the tapas bars are not the sort of places they are in Donostia, where it's the custom to bar hop. In terms of knowing about the latest places to open and the hot new places in town, fresh_a has been great about posting news, but Paris is a city the lives for news of food and restaurants and most of it makes the press very quickly. This site is a good resource for those who may not read all the French papers and journals, but how much does it matter when there are already too many places to cover in a short month in Paris. The only advice I may have--and it's been repeated all over this site--is that any diner in a restaurant where the food is taken seriously by the chef and staff, will do better as he manages to convince his waiter that he really appreciates the food and is not just there because the restuarant appears in guide books with a high rating. It's easier if you speak the language, but even language is not always a barrier.

This is not the place I mean.

Croissants degrade fairly quickly. On the other hand they freeze rather well. I'd want to freeze them as soon after they're bought as possible. I don't think there's much point in freezing day old croissants. I remember when there were no good pastry shop bakeries near us and we used to buy croissants and freeze them. We'd defrost and reheat them in the oven and they were quite good, if not quite as good as fresh. Stale croissants make great bread pudding. I agree with Rachel. When we have guests from Europe, we try to serve them American things. I'd suggest English muffins, bagels, corn muffins, blueberry muffins, etc. The bagels perhaps with cream cheese and smoked salmon. The rest with some good jams. If you can find some local ones, all the better. I have had croissants in NY that were better than many in France, but on the whole, we don't have the same flour or butter and the best ones are better in France.

Most of the above cooked in goose fat. Well maybe not most of the above, but certainly sauteed or roast potatoes in goose fat.

I've never spent New Year's Eve in Paris. I have spent New Year's Eve in the provinces. We spent a few years celebrating with friends in a small town near Pezenas and we always ate in. We did however, make note of unusually high prices and entertainment at restaurants in the area. Once we spent New Year's Eve in Marseille, but skipped dinner entirely by having large lunches on New Year's Day and the day before New Year's Day. That time, we were meeting friends who just really didn't care for the late hour of the special dinners, nor for the noise and music that would accompany it. Maybe there's a suggestion there. Enjoy the evening in the streets and privately between the two of you and have good lunches on either side. 100 euros might not buy that good a meal in Paris on New Year's Eve, while it will buy some pretty good lunches and dinner a day later. My wife is not one for enjoying crowds or public celebrations, but sometimes it's different far from home. We found out we got caught up in the festivities in the old port in Marseille where there were numerous bands and fireworks. We had a great time and really enjoyed lunch the next day.

On New Year's Eve, just about any restaurant that's open, will be making a big deal and charging perhaps twice what they normally charge. The menus may be special, but it's not a night for food value. If you're interested in food, you should never let yourself be limited to the area of a hotel in Paris. It's just so easy to get around. Nevertheless there's plenty of decent eating in that area. Cantine des Gournets has a star and is next to your hotel. Violon d'Ingres also has a star and is a few blocks down St.-Dominique as is Constant's new bistro/cafe. Fontaine de Mars is an inexpensive favorite of many and l'Auvergne Gourmande where we met a few members the other week for dinner has it's charms, especially at the price. All on the same street. What sort of prices are you looking to pay for dinner.

I stand corrected. The current inane review is by Adam Platt. Thanks for pointing that out.

I think it's called Havana Chelsea, but I'm always afraid I'm confusing it with the more upscale place (a block north?). It's a luncheonette with a small counter and maybe six or eight tables of four in the back. It's on the east side of the street. There should be another Cuban place a block north, or maybe a block south, on the same side of the street. The one I'm thinking of is definitely the more down home looking one, to be charitable. The rice and beans are fine for that sort of place. Some dishes are better than others and the last of the roast pork at night is not as good as the better portions. There's no bar, but you can bring your own beer or wine. Enjoy while you can. Who knows when gentrification in the guise of Olive Garden will drift over from Sixth Avenue and 23rd Street. I don't know how many sandwiches they can press at once. An order for four might disrupt the joint. An order for a dozen might cause a meltdown. Some beer and rice and beans might smooth out the service bumps.

Simon, it's great to hear from you again. I hope we hear more this time, although it doesn't appear you'll find yourself with much spare time. By the way, it's "Bux" to you. "Mr. Buxbaum" is far too formal for eGullet. And, of course I play far too little a role in organizing this site to take much personal credit. It's difficult for me to say what other restaurant would round off your culinary career. There are many that could contribute and after a stint at Can Fabes, I suspect you will be a great position to absorb the influences in shorter time. Certainly Gagnaire and Passard are interesting. Bras is another and quite different from Gagnaire. Gagnaire and Bras would be a formidable combination of experiences. I trust that while you are in Catalunya, you will get a chance to experience Barcelona and a few places in the provinces. We were impressed by Can Roca and Sant Pau in Catalunya. I trust there's time and money in your budget to eat at both. There are four or five worthy places in the Pais Vasco and I should be writing about my meals there last week rather than answering posts, but you will read that soon and hopefully my photographs will come across on the net as well. Without a doubt, I'd recommend the food at Las Rejas which seems so much more deeply rooted in Spain than most of the other impressive restaurants. It may not be an easy place to get to without a car. I'm not suggesting a stage at any of the Spanish places, not until at least you've got what Santamaria has to offer under your belt, but these are places whose food it would be worth tasting.

Of course there are places that never make the guides for one reason or another. Michelin includes tapas bars in their listings, but in Donostia, it's a very small list and hardly representative of the riches available. It will serve a visitor well enough if he, or she, wants a snack, but it's not a guide for good bar crawl.

My mother took it a step further and would let the reservationist know it was a birthday. Sadly, she did it in the wrong place at the wrong time and we refused to dine with her for some time--at least until we felt she understood how we felt about. Neither my wife nor I ever got a candle in the middle of our dessert again.

Ron Del Barrilito is fairly well distributed in NYC, although I don't recall if I've seen the gold, or just the silver label.

And that luncheonette on Eighth Avenue around 20th Street? Good roast pork is what makes their sandwich special. I'm generally a purist, but I'm partial to their variation with chorizo. The addition of chorizo seems far better than a slice of salami. I'd be pleased to find a better Cubano sandwich, but I'd be surprised if all those places provided it. I'm in if the timing works.

Well it's not the hell it used to be. Welcome to eGullet.

It appears that in an earlier version of this post, I inadvertently blamed Gael Greene for the Mix review. That required some editing of my post. I applogize for my haste. I thank Fat Guy for noticing the error. Right. Like a middle eastern version of morality. Screw 'em and for the rest of their life, call them dishonored for the act. Ducasse is famous for dedication to great food in certain informed circles, even if not in Mr. Platt's. I value negative reviews and appreciate warnings about places that offer poor value, but I don't enjoy hatchet jobs where the review seems to express such glee in negativity. This is not a middle class restaurant. It certainly deserves close scrutiny. The three course meal is more expensive than what you'd pay at Oceana, Cafe Boulud and most three star restaurants in NY. It's an easy target, even for a publication with a readership in an upper income bracket. It's a pity the mass market doesn't get to read the same kinds of reviews about restaurants as it does about painting and sculture. Image an art critic focusing on the price of a painting we all can't afford or dismissing its innovations without some intellectual consideration. Everytime I begin to get a sense I'm getting reliable information from this review, I come across a statement like this--"... made with an overly busy, Eurocentric mixture of ham, butter, and black truffles.--which leave me feeling as if the reviewer and I grew up on two different planets and hers didn't support a hydrocarbon life system. Yikes, gag me with a spoon, or if you please, with a large helping of butter, truffles and ham. PS I've not had this, but it sounds remarkably similar to the floating island at Aux Lyonnaise in Paris where I had Tarte et île flottante aux pralines roses, but with rose ice cream replacing the red praline pie. I'm not sure if the bits in the floating island were bits of candied rose petals or pralines roses. In all honesty, I've not been a fan of the red candy that's traditional to Lyon, but I thoroughly enjoyed all aspects of this dessert in Paris a couple of weeks ago. Alain Ducasse is now a part owner of this long standing bistro in Paris. Prices there are quite reasonable. Three course dinner ran 38 euros without beverages. Ducasse's involvement apparently stems from his interest in preserving France's culinary heritage. His dedication to the culinary arts is poorly represented by New York Magazine's writers.

Glad to hear your opinion on Berasategui. Thanks also for that list. I know some of the places from experience and a few from second hand reports. I don't know Barbiana in Sevilla or the Mesón-Taberna Juan Peña in Córdoba and neither pops up in the Guia Roja or Campsa. Are these the names of the chefs, or are they restaurants out of town in the provinces?