JosephB

There's no doubt that the ricotta was whole milk. The open question is whether the regular mozzarella was whole milk. I don't think it was.

Is certainly looks like that John, but when you try it you'll agree that it's not the same. Anyway, we have to go back again and give it equal time.

As a group, our appetites were definitely worn out a bit by the time the regular pizza arrived. It needs to be revisited. However, I don’t see my opinion about the crust changing, which mirrors Sam’s discussion of the crust. The mozzarella was from Grande , one of the better commercial producers. We failed to ask whether he used part-skim, whole milk, or 50-50. (Pan, can you please check with him on that next week?) The fresh mozzarella was definitely NOT buffala. It was Grande’s Fior di Latte Ovoline, which was very rich and creamy, with a nice bit of acidity. I can’t remember the brand of tomatoes Dom used to make the sauce but it’s Italian pomodori passati and comes in jars. I’ve seen the brand at Balducci. I also noticed that there were several boxes of those “on-the-vine” tomatoes in the back. We need to find out if he’s adding the fresh tomatoes to the sauce, or using it for something else. Unfortunately, it was hard to keep Dom's attention in a conversation and get information. He was distracted by his one-man show.

I never eat pepperoni, but will admit that these pepperoni were delicious.

Fabulous reports from Sam, MRX, and Bergerka! Also, lots of thanks to Sherribabee for being official photographer. Can't wait to see those photos! I really think that Sam captured what makes Di Fara special. It’s really about one man’s commitment to using quality ingredients to produce the best product that he can. Never have I seen Reggiano-Parmigiano, or freshly cooked artichokes, or porcini in such abundance in a pizza parlor. Dom spreads these ingredients generously on his pizza and calzone, raising the flavor level several notches above the familiar. To be sure, I was swept away by the calzone with broccoli rape, prosciutto, and a velvety combination of ricotta, fresh mozzarella, and Parmigiano. While the calzone, and the pan-pizza for that matter, are not comparable to the Neapolitan pizza, and will therefore make comparison difficult, they nevertheless stand on their own merit. They rank high, and deserved the wild praise they received. The gastronomic experience at Di Fara was greatly enhanced by watching Dom operate behind the counter. By my calculations Dom is at least 65 years old, and probably older (He arrived in the US when he was 23, and Di Fara has been in business for 42 years), but he works alone, except for the kid running some prep for him. Throughout the day, Dom methodically turns the dough, spreads the sauce and toppings, slices and grates the cheese as he goes, and works in and out of the oven with the peel (and sometimes with his bare hands). It’s not exactly clear how Dom keeps track of the orders being called out, but everything is seemingly under control. The adoring crowd leans forward to watch, giving quiet reverence to the man behind the counter. It’s a moment to remember, and another reason to return to Di Fara.

Thanks for the tip mis-en-place, and welcome to eGullet! Yesterday, I received 4 wild boar shoulders from Broken Arrow Ranch (approx 5 lb. each). They were shipped 2nd Day FedEx, and came expertly packed with dry ice in a Styrofoam box. I paid $6.98 per lb., freight included. I'm glad to hear that you had success with the boar tenderloin. Boar is notorious for being tough. Braising cuts are therefore recommended. I'll let you know how my braise turns out. BTW, would you mind posting that fabulous sounding recipe you made?

I want to come to an understanding about square pizza. In Sicily, square "pizza" is called sfincione. No one in Sicily would think you were referring to sfincione if you said pizza. Pizza in Sicily is Neapolitan, and is comparable in quality (at the good places) to pizza in Naples, IMHO. Here is a recipe for sfincione, if you're interested. BTW, the best sfincione that I've eaten in Sicily had no tomato sauce or mozzarella. Instead, caciocavallo, anchovies, and olives were buried in the dough, with the whole thing covered in caramelized onions, toasted bread crumbs, and EVOO. I agree that we should focus on the Neapolitan pizza, and that we have at least one with just cheese and tomato. The square "pizza" and calzone are something else entirely.

I see that they open at 8:30 am. What would you get there at that hour?

I wonder how many restaurants sell the business and at how much profit or loss. My uneducated guess is that most sales occur when the restaurant goes out of business and is forced to sell the assets at a loss. Is this a fair assumption? How often has a new restaurant evver moved into an old restaurant location without renovating the dining room extensively? I wonder how much kitchen renovation is done as well. Wear and tear on chairs, carpets, tableware, etc, is very high anyway and successful restaurants look shabby rather quickly anyway. It would seem that a good part of the investment much be depreciated and affect the real bottom line, but I don't really know about this. I have my doubts as well. Selling a restaurant is not like selling income producing real property.

OK, I've seen this on the Sopranos.

I expect to receive 7- 3lb shoulders. Properly wrapped, I can keep the meat in the freezer for 4-6 months. Even if I don't part with any of it, I could consume it all if I were to braise one roast every three weeks. But I expect some of it will be shared.

If only you were in NY, I'd share some of the catch with you. Thanks again. I'm about to book a trip for this spring! Maybe two! (Seriously. United Airlines has a deal where, if I fly from San Francisco to NYC twice before April 15, I get a free ticket anywhere in the world. I need to come on business at least once...if I can line up some more web design work, I'm all over that second trip.) You're sweet. Keep us posted. I wanna know how you cook what you do. If you are indeed here before Tax Day, then I will save some wild boar for you. Let me know how your travel plans work out.

What's the best strategy for landing a space formally occupied by a restaurant?

OK Yaroo, what is Mezzanine debt?

You may want to see some of the boar talk in the Cooking Forum. I've place my order for wild boar.

If only you were in NY, I'd share some of the catch with you. Thanks again.

Thanks iriee, Huevos, Dale, and Tana for your suggestions and insights. I called Broken Arrow and spoke to Bo and Robin. First let me say that as a New Yorker, I am always overwhelmed with the courteousness and friendliness of the fine folks down South. Bo told me all about the boar that roam uncontrolled for hundreds of miles in Southern Texas, and what it takes to capture the little buggers. That's wild enough for me. Bo agreed that the shoulder is the best cut of boar because boar's tenderness is unpredictable (Indeed, Broken Arrow guarantees the tenderness of all its meats, except boar). A very long slow braise is a sure bet. Bo just shipped some shoulders to the Union Square Cafe in NYC. I wouldn't be surprised if braised boar or boar ragu winds up on the menu this weekend. I'll check with the kitchen and let you know. Bo transferred me to Robin when I revealed that I was not buying for a restaurant. Robin was happy to sell me some shoulders, but with a hefty minimum as Dale reported. I ordered 20 lbs of shoulder. Each shoulder weighs about 3 pounds, so there's no issue of dividing the meat into braising portions. The price was $6.98/lb., including 2nd Day FedEx (For 40 lbs., the price is $5.98 lb.) I'll report back after I cook up some of the boar.

I agree. I'd add Totonno to that list, as it is also one of the famous traditional places. OK, we'll call it the "BIG FIVE."

In terms of the places to visit, I would vote for these places for the 1st four visits: Di Fara Patsy's (E. 117th) Lombardi's Grimaldi BTW, I may be willing to drive (I have room for 5 passengers) to the outlier places.

Sounds like a plan. I support limiting the pizza variables on which we will comment. I think these should suffice: 1.) dough/crust; 2.) sauce; 3.) cheese; 4.) topping, if any. Overall general impressions would be a good idea as well, which can incorporate things that can affect one's pizza eating experience. For example, to some a pizza will taste better because the place is warm and cozy -- it's just one of those things. I agree that a planned meeting date is a good idea. Those who cannot make it, or want to visit on their own, can post their impressions as they like. I also like the idea of interviewing shop owners about their product. I think we should try to do it in conjunction with each visit. We can take turns calling ahead, introducing the eG Pizza Survey, and asking a few questions about the pizza, and the pizza making process. Oh, and I support pizza at Sam's. I'll bring the beer.

Cool, I'm heading over there this morning. Thanks. Actually, on second thought I don't think I'll find any boar at the Greenmarket because apparently they're not caught in these here parts. In fact, none of the Greenmarket vendors list it. Greenmarket Vendors For the most part, I don't think they're caught anywhere. "Wild boar" is a somewhat deceptive term because all the wild boar I know of that is sold in the US has been raised on farms. It is, in other words, oxymoronically "farm raised wild boar" or "domestic wild boar." This designation distinguishes it from regular hogs, but probably creates more confusion than it resolves. I was under the same impression about the wildness of boar (at least in the US), until I read this about the boar from Broken Arrow Ranch.

Iriee, Thanks for the tip. I'll let you know what Bo tells me. -Joe

It turns out that Citarella offers wild boar and other "exotic" game on special order. I called the shop on Broadway today and asked about the place or orgin and price price of Citarella's boar shoulder. I was put on hold for quite a while, which made me think that I was making a rather unique inquiry. When the salesperson came back on the telephone she said that the boar would come from Nebraska or Penn., and required a 2-3 day advance order. However, because the market for boar was in flux, she could not tell me what the price would be for a 5-6 lb. shoulder. She couldn't even give me a range of prices. I told her that was ridiculous, and asked her to do some research on boar orders in the past few months, so that she could give me an idea of price range when I call again tomorrow. Do you think they ever sell any of this meat?

I understand that with dry heat cooking, boar can be tough. I'll have to try the chops.

I don't see it on the Amma Menu. But thanks anyway Mark.