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slkinsey

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by slkinsey

  1. And was that dish you had hot that was 1/4 chicken, 3/4 chilis? I'd assume so.

    Oh yea... it's not often that a dish comes to the table and causes both Fat Guy and me to break into laughter just thinking about what we're going to do to ourselves when we eat it.

  2. Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. Just kept forgetting about it, so...

    I want to replace the 3.5 qt. saucepan I use for everything from boiling water for vegetables and pasta (obviously not too demanding) to making small amounts of soup and larger amounts of sauces. My plan right now is to get a normal stainless-sided saucepan with an aluminum or copper base, which should be fine for everything but the more delicate sauces, and then, sometime down the line, get a larger copper saucière for making larger amounts of such sauces. Does this sound like a good plan, or would there be any significant value to getting a fully-clad saucepan like one made by Falk or a sale-priced All-Clad LTD for my purposes?

    I think you're right to get a disk bottom pan in this size. In fact, you may find that you never make so much sauce that you require a fully clad pan in this size.

    Just one thing to mention... a 3.5 quart pan is way too small for boiling pasta.

    Assuming I do get a SS pan, what value, if any, would the Stiram Catering's copper base provide me with in my case, as opposed to a Professierie one or a Paderno?

    In my opinion, and understanding your probable use... probably no advantage to having a copper base.

  3. IMO, a tomato sauce would just obscure the delicate flavor of the seafood. Ricotta and shrimp/scallops doesn't do too much for me either.

    I'd be inclined to chop them both, with herbs and maybe a little pureed potato for the filling -- then do a simple brown butter, perhaps with a few capers.

    That's my two cents. :smile:

  4. I've used [my Induc'nox saute pan] for the first time (on gas) and it's full of stains inside which look a bit like oil stains with that rainbow colored edges.  Not that I think it's going to change the quality of the pan but it just doesn't look very good :sad:

    This is quite typical for a polished stainless steel surface. Get yourself some Bar Keeper's Friend and those stains will come off in no time.

    Also, I was not that impressed with the heat distribution. It heated up fairly quickly but when cooking a risotto (on medium heat of course), you clearly see the burner's shape ... quite sad, I found.

    As I pointed out earlier in this thread, Induc'inox is magnetic steel fully clad with stainless steel, and it is around 2 mm thick. This specification is not great from a thermal standpoint because magnetic steel does not have good heat characteristics over traditional heat. As you have discovered, this is readily apparent in a pan with a large cooking surface like a sauté pan.

    You're cooking over ~2 mm of magnetic steel, which is way too thin. I'd much rather have 4 mm (minimum) to 7 mm (preferred) of aluminum or 2 - 2.5 mm of copper down there. Even 2 mm of aluminum (as in All-Clad Stainless) would be better than 2 mm of magnetic steel over standard heat, and I think even that is more appropriate to a small (1 - 2 qt) sauce pan or similar. I personally wouldn't recommend an Induc'inox sauté pan, or indeed any pan from this line for anyone who is not currently using induction. These pans are designed to be used with induction, and the thermal properties are not good over a traditional heat source.

    Do you think that's normal?

    Yes. Both results are entirely expected given the materials specifications for a Mauviel Indic'inox sauté pan.

  5. Many of you are already in the know, but for those that aren't...

    We at eGullet would like to direct your attention to Elyse's new web site: The Burger Club.

    At The Burger Club, Elyse has taken her considerable enthusiasm for burgers and all things burger-related and developed an entire range of discussion forums. We are happy that the BC idea fell on fertile ground here at eGullet, and hope that The Burger Club grows into a thriving online community. All interested eGulleteers are encouraged to explore The Burger Club and join the fun.

    Many of the core NYC Burger Clubbers are already involved in discussion on The Burger Club, and there is already an existing thread underway on today's NYC outing. In order to avoid the confusion of a bifurcated discussion about the same gathering taking place on two different sites, and to encourage membership registration at Elyse's new site, we have decided to lock this thread and ask that BC/NY conversation be continued over at The Burger Club.

    Please join us in welcoming Elyse's Burger Club site into the family of what we hope will one day be many web sites grown out of ideas born in our forums.

  6. Is there anyplace in the city to buy one of those Sicilian sandwiches filled with spleen and lung cooked in lard?

    Okay... reading one of JJ's links above, it looks like a trip to First Avenue's Foccacceria for a vesteddi is in order. Who's up for it?

  7. I think all the offal at Babbo and Lupa is outstanding. That guy has a way with the fifth quarter. I have enjoyed his brain ravioli, sauteed sweetbread with fennel pollen, fried lamb sweetbreads at Lupa... and the tripa alla parmigiana is an absolute must-have.

    Is there anyplace in the city to buy one of those Sicilian sandwiches filled with spleen and lung cooked in lard?

  8. ...count me among the people who can't quite get over the hurdle of paying a billion dollars for such basic food.

    Totally. Unless it's someone else's money.

    Yet I love those mushrooms.

    Word.

  9. It may have been that you just didn't order the right things... or maybe the concept doesn't float your boat.

    I have not been to Craft, so I'm a little confused. If, as you say, Craft has a certain "concept," doesn't it extend to everything on its menu? If so, why would there be right things and wrong things to order?

    I should have been more clear. What I meant is that certain items (their mushrooms, for example) are more likely to make a big impression than others (their carrots, for example). This is not to suggest that their carrots aren't outstanding -- I really have no idea -- but it is suggest that it's a lot easier to impress someone with some kickass morels or porcini than it is some kickass carrots.

  10. Not better, necessarily... but distinctly dufferent. It's a certain concept and a certain focus. Some people are going to really be into it and others won't. Some of the ingredients they have there (the mushrooms, for example) are probably the best in town. It may have been that you just didn't order the right things... or maybe the concept doesn't float your boat.

  11. This is definitely worth mentioning in re to Esca. It's really David Pasternack's place as much, if not more than it is Batali's. Certainly Pasternack seems to have more of a free hand at Esca than the head guys do at, say, Lupa and Babbo. This is probably inevitable given the fact that Esca's menu necessarily changes with some frequency depending on what is coming out of the water. In fact, I went to Esca not long after it opened, and when one of my friends remarked to our waiter (who had been pulled over from Babbo to get the place going) that she always loved Mario's places, he made quite a point of the fact that, although Batali was the guiding influence, Pasternack was the guy in the kitchen.

  12. Glad to see that so many people like Esca. It's probably my favorite seafood place too. And good points all around about "perfect preparation of the freshest ingredients." This is, in a nutshell, the Italian seafood aesthetic. In a certain sense, it can feel a little strange to spend big bucks in a seafood place like this when one is used to paying those prices for much more elaborate food with complicated and difficult preparation. But, as Steven points out, you're really paying for one of the most expensive and most perishable ingredients there is: pristene, fresh fish.

    Among the things I have really enjoyed are: marinated fresh anchovies, sorrel ravioli, bucatini with baby octopus, bigoli with fresh sardines, maccheroni alla chittara with crabmeat and sea urchin, spaghetti with bottarga and bread crumbs, salt-baked branzino per due, rombo in cartoccio, and most any dish with scallops.

  13. While the non-LC may be quite serviceable for many years, it will not have LC's wonderful lifetime guarantee (your lifetime, your children's lifetime, and probably their children's as well) which I have personally tested.

    Just to be fair, I think most manufacturers (Calphalon included) offer a lifetime warranty for their serious cookware.

    You're right, and I think AC does, too. I was cautioning that the LC knock offs don't carry a guarantee even though they might be quite adequate for some time. I should have been clearer.

    I would like to point out, just for the record, that manufacturers like Staub and Chasseur are not knockoffs of Le Creuset.

  14. yeah, we've got a good thing going here, but we're nowhere near as systematic and regular as a publication with a dedicated critic and a budget. The Times wrote up at least two restaurants a week, every week, with a thorough description of the offerings, space, ambience, etc. I don't think that we're up to that pace here.

    I was joking, of course. But, more to your point: no matter how low the Times stoops, I don't see anyone else even remotely positioned to step up and take their place.

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